Aaaargh why is it doing this?

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SideSHO09

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Ok after many SHO Forum and Google searches I havent come up with anything. Talked to a few mechanics who were obviously unfamiliar with the SHO and pointed me to bad head gaskets. I even talked to tech support @ SHO Shop and what he told me makes the most sense. Probably got a leak somewhere thats not visible.
Anyway here it is. Car is a '92 MTX. Replaced water pump, t-stat with 180 from autozone, new ford oem radiator cap 16lb ,new dual core radiator. Car is running hotter than it did before I replaced all those parts. Top and bottom hoses still need to be replaced. When the car is hot the top hose is fully pressurized and swelled up to the point it looks like it could bust.
So here is how it's acting.
When i start it up when the engine is cold and start driving by jumping right on the freeway or nonstop cruising where there is constant airflow, even on a hot day (100 +) the needle does not go past the quarter mark on the guage but when i hit stoplights or stop and go traffic, it takes about 10 minutes for the needle to start rising up the guage to the point of no return. The highest it gets is a little above the N but never goes to the last mark before it gets out of the normal range so in other words it doesnt overheat according to the guage just runs way too hot.
Now when the car is this hot and i jump on the freeway and get to 80 mph,90 or 100 mph all the air being forced into the engine bay brings the temp back down to between 1/2 to 1/4 mark. The fan kicks on everytime it gets to the halfway mark but never brings the temp down.
I do smell coolant in the cabin when the car is running hot.
There have been a couple occassions when the coolant boiled over out of the radiator to overflow but this was with an autozone radiator cap and hasnt done that yet with the ford oem cap.
There is no coolant in the oil and vise versa and no visible leaks which leads me to think the leak is either internal or external and being burned off by the exhaust. there is no white smoke out of tailpipes at idle or part throttle though there is a little smoke during full throttle.
I would think that if the head gasket was bad the car wouldn't run as strong as it does and that the engine would overheat no matter what the driving conditions are. next step is a cooling system pressure test but can anyone chime in on what the problem could be!
 

hawkeye18

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I would be more interested in a flow test. It sounds to me like there is an obstruction in the coolant lines somewhere - sounds like perhaps one of the main ones. Is there such a thing as an in-line coolant flow meter?
 

HootUSMC

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If you are sure it's not the head gasket I would do a flush. If there is any chance is it a gasket I wouldn't flush, it may make the gasket worse by cleaning out all the nasty.
 

SideSHO09

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yeah it does sound like some kind of blockage. I havent yet done a flush and i heard that the powerflush the auto shops advertise are nothing but fluid exchanges. so should i go ahead and get some of that prestone flush. I know the previous owner used some bars stop leak so its possible that stuff could have clogged something up.
 

hawkeye18

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oh, well that's your problem right there. Bar's Stop Leak will stop the leak, and most all flow in the general area. You have to be real careful with that stuff, and most people aren't.

It sounds like a complete flush is in order. I wouldn't worry about the head gasket; they're remarkably resilient on these cars.
 

SuperHO

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just for ***** and giggles, yank your thermostat out and go for a spin. i have yet to get the right thermostat from auto zone.
 

jmpSHO

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just for ***** and giggles, yank your thermostat out and go for a spin. i have yet to get the right thermostat from auto zone.

That's why you shouldn't buy anything from them unless it's an emergency. Anyways definately have it flushed and let us know what happens. By the way do you have an ATX or MTX?
 

Mike Gallion

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Mtx as stated in thread starter.

I had a similar experience with my 95 Mtx. finally replaced the radiator and it has behaved much better since.
 

SideSHO09

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thanks for the replies. It does sound like some kind of blockage so i will go to a reputable radiator shop to get a powerflush done and i will keep you guys updated. The 10 months I've owned it, it hasnt been flushed out. also I did take the thermo out for a couple days and it took a little longer to warm up but it ultimately ran hot.
Also this being on the freeway and having the car still run cool is a bit weird since it runs hot in traffic.
 

SolidState

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just for ***** and giggles, yank your thermostat out and go for a spin. i have yet to get the right thermostat from auto zone.

actually, if you run an SHO without a thermostat, the car will exhibit the symptoms the OP is experiencing.

The SHO requires a t-stat to run properly, otherwise the coolant is permanently routed through the heater core and not the block. I found this out the hard way when transporting a SC SHO from MA to Toronto.
 

SuperHO

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Also this being on the freeway and having the car still run cool is a bit weird since it runs hot in traffic.

That's cuz you've got airflow over the radiator. Everything you've said leads me to think stuck or improper thermostat. Are you losing coolant anywhere?
 

SideSHO09

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no external leaks and not losing any coolant. when i top it off like once a week its only like 12oz. as much as a can of soda. no white smoke, no oil in coolant, no coolant in oil, not a head gasket whew!
autozone duralast 180 degree thermo.
gonna get this thing powerflushed with new top goodyear rubber flex hose and new bottom hose. i'll give you guys the update
 

zak

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180 deg thermostat is much too cool. Most aftermarket do not have the 'jiggle valve" and end up trapping air. Get the Ford OEM one . . . .
 

hawkeye18

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Well, I don't think a 180 degree t-stat is going to **** the engine, and if it's running hot I would probably recommend that, but the jiggle valve is indeed much more important than the temp. If it doesn't have one, either purchase one that does or jerry-rig it by getting a set of dremel drill bits (the really itty bitty ones), getting the 1/64" bit and drilling a hole in the top of the surround disk. By top, I mean so that the hole is oriented at the top of the t-stat when installed. This will let the tiny little pressurized air bubbles through. Of course, if don't happen to have those bits handy like I did, it's going to cost the same either way, so you'd be better off choosing the one that's less work.
 

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