A/C question(R406a)

[FastAndFurious]

I've done researches to find out if I should use R406a(autofrost) or convert r-12 to r134a.

I have 91 taurus which is equipped with r-12 for a/c. I bought the car with non-working ac about a year and half ago. I know the compressor works because I jumped the switch, and the compressor kicked in.

Should I take it to a shop and find the leak and then bring the car back home and fix the leak? and fill it with R406a(autofrost)? I heard R406a molecules are even smaller than R134a, and I will have to change all the orings and seals, but I found this

Four Seasons, Murray, and Everco have Neoprene and
they are dark blue in color. GM has used a black neoprene for several
years. These are available from GM dealers or AC Delco distributors.
There are also green O-rings known as HNBR. This rubber was developed
for R-134a because it was thought to have better heat characteristics.
Also Ford used this material for their spring lock fittings. They even
used an odd size (thicker) to try and keep these fittings from leaking.
Autofrost will work fine with this rubber if it came from the OEMs,
however HNBR O-rings that are purchased elsewhere are many times of
cheap quality and will not fare well. For this reason we ask that you to
always ask for Neoprene. [4/15/97 update: Bob Burke @ ATC Specialists
now has shaft seal kits and O-ring kits available]

It sounds like I will be fine with ford OEM o-rings. Otherwise I will have to find the neoprene o-rings.

I'm planning on using R406a because my budget is low, and it is just drop in replacement.

What do you guys think? Do you guys think I will have to change orings and all the stuff like conversion to R134a or I will be fine with just vacuuming the a/c system and put R406a in?

 

[projectSHO89]

Just say "No" to the R406a.

Fix the leaks and either recharge with R12 or convert it to R134a.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

I'm with Steve, no reason to re-invent the wheel here.

See if the system will hold vacuum, if not and the leak is not readily apparent put some dye in there and see where it's coming out.

A DIY R-134A conversion/charge should run under $40, and to pay a shop to do it shouldn't be more than $100. R-12 is available if you don't mind paying the premium, but personally I don't think it's worth it since a well-running R-134A system cools just as well.

People get all hung up over this R-12 stuff for no reason.

 

[sperold]

If you can get the compressor to come on with your trick, you are already way ahead of the game. Get a refil kit and fill it up. I went to Walmart and got a product from Interdynamics called EZChill model RKR-8. It claims to convert a R-12 system to R-134a and has the adapters, three 12 oz cans of 134a & oil, with a gauge & trigger and hose. It has a CD that explains the process. I couldn't get the compressor to come on so I could never load my system (I was told you have to trick it with a certain voltage). Load it up and use it, and you can put the can on again in a day or two, and read the gauge, to see if you are loosing any pressure. If there is a leak, you can tell where the leak is by looking for the oil - messy trace. With a little luck there will be no leaks, and you will have all of $25.00 in it

 

[projectSHO89]

Oh, great! An InterDynamics "death kit" recommendation...

Have a shop do it so it gets done right.

 

[sperold]

Since I couldn't get my system to fill, I actually had a shop do mine. $700.00 later I had a great A/C system that worked like a charm. Six months later, no AC at all (there was a winter in the mean time, so who knows when it failed). Took it back, no refrigerant, no sympathy, no warranty.
Is this the done right that you are talking about?

 

[itwonder]

If your budget is low, one option is to just recharge it yourself with R12. Readily available in NOS cans if you search Craigslist. About $25/can last I checked but you only need a couple.