95mtxsholove
New Member
hi i have a 95 mtx sho and at hi rpms its boggin out i noticed i had oil where spark plugs r can someone help me out thanks
95 mtx sho
- Thread starter 95mtxsholove
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chrism3784
SHO Member
Mine did that, were bad spark plugs. You have to get good quality spark plugs or it bogs down at high rpms.
95mtxsholove
New Member
so that is the problem than the spark plugs wat kind should i put in?
nothingtoseehere
SHO Member
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if there is oil in your plug wells, you need valve cover gaskets.
95mtxsholove
New Member
o yea and another thing wen i go in reverse and start going my engine jumps
randy'sho
95 White MTX
sounds like you need to get plugs and a valve cover set!
nothingtoseehere
SHO Member
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reverse only?
95mtxsholove
New Member
yea only reverse does it and i just put a new clutch in the car and the cable has slack how do u adjust the cable on the car the guy who did the clutch didnt ajdust the cable
ultimatesho
New Member
to adjust ur clutch u pull back on ur pedal, then slowly press it down 3 times.......should hear and click/pop if it needed adjusted.......may have a stretched cable if that dont work
as far as the oil in ur wells as everyone said ull need a valve cover set (makes sure it comes with the plug well seals)
plugs is just like oil everyone will give u different opion........personally i use motorcraft plugs in both mine......as well as many other forum members
as far as the oil in ur wells as everyone said ull need a valve cover set (makes sure it comes with the plug well seals)
plugs is just like oil everyone will give u different opion........personally i use motorcraft plugs in both mine......as well as many other forum members
95mtxsholove
New Member
its a brand new lum clutch cable
95mtxsholove
New Member
i mean luk clutch cable
TopGunnYFZ
Active Member
You probably have weak motor mounts my MTX used to smack my exhaust on the body in reverse when i had blown mounts, stiffened mounts and ASBF's and its solid as a rock! Well a semi soft rock
I had issues with plugs in my MTX as well I put in some Motorcraft plugs and it runs great
I had issues with plugs in my MTX as well I put in some Motorcraft plugs and it runs great
Last edited:
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Bogging at high RPMs can be many issues, but from what I've seen is that 90% of the time it's either plugs or wires, 6% DIS, 3% coil pack/wiring, and 1% EEC. So I'd start there.
There are seals between the spark plug well and the head of the engine called spark plug tube well seals. They shrivel up and dry out and let oil through, right into your spark plug well. These seals are part of the valve cover gasket set, and you should just get the set as if the plug well seals are shot, odds are good the VC seals are not far behind.
As far as spark plugs goes, the common concensus is that Autolite APP3924s are the best compromise between price, fit and reliability. Buy those and make sure they're correctly gapped to .044" and you won't go wrong. When you install the plugs, I would get a big tube of dielectric grease and fill the plug wire end that connects to the plug up with the grease to prevent oil from weakening the connection (don't worry, you won't hurt it if you use too much).
And as for the engine smacking stuff, that's definitely shot motor mounts. It's odd that only the rear one would be shot as usually it's the front one that goes, but in any case it will need replacing. Do some research on the forum on reinforced motor mounts, there are a couple of places you can get them (SHOsource comes to mind). They will stiffen the engine up dramatically, and you will get more felt torque to the wheels (as less of it will be absorbed by the mount).
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask... somebody will answer them
There are seals between the spark plug well and the head of the engine called spark plug tube well seals. They shrivel up and dry out and let oil through, right into your spark plug well. These seals are part of the valve cover gasket set, and you should just get the set as if the plug well seals are shot, odds are good the VC seals are not far behind.
As far as spark plugs goes, the common concensus is that Autolite APP3924s are the best compromise between price, fit and reliability. Buy those and make sure they're correctly gapped to .044" and you won't go wrong. When you install the plugs, I would get a big tube of dielectric grease and fill the plug wire end that connects to the plug up with the grease to prevent oil from weakening the connection (don't worry, you won't hurt it if you use too much).
And as for the engine smacking stuff, that's definitely shot motor mounts. It's odd that only the rear one would be shot as usually it's the front one that goes, but in any case it will need replacing. Do some research on the forum on reinforced motor mounts, there are a couple of places you can get them (SHOsource comes to mind). They will stiffen the engine up dramatically, and you will get more felt torque to the wheels (as less of it will be absorbed by the mount).
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask... somebody will answer them
SHOmethewayhome
BAD ROLE MODEL
look into getting a set of aluminum subframe bushings as well. this improves things quite a bit.
some others say that there is noise/vibration/ride harshness issues with using the aluminum bushings, i've had them in since february without issue, i love em, and i feel that they were a HUGE improvement over the stock ones i had. I also lucked out and found a member that was in the mood to completely unload every SHO part he had cheap and scored re-enforced motor mounts, and a new transmission mount. everything is so much tighter now and i can rev my engine with the hood up and there is little if any noticable motor rock.
while you have the valve covers off i seriously recommend cleaning the crap out of everything in sight you can reach, and being very careful taking the valve cover bolts on and off, they bottom out in the head, and are kind of difficult extract and to replace if you break one and arent so lucky to find a SHO in the junk yard. also, try and find a set of motorcraft plug wires. the aftermarket ones dont have a very solid fit and most people here run stock wires.
you should also look into doing a front 60k if you haven't yet (timing belt, water pump, cam seals, cam sensor, crank position sensor, belts, hoses, front main seal, etc) once again i was lucky and the guy i bought all my SHO stuff from already had a spare motor with a front 60K done and 0 miles on it, so i am gonna swipe all the stuff i listed (minus the seals, i have new ones) and do mine soon.
when your clutch burns up and you are ready to get your clutch changed, you should strongly (IE definitely) change out your rod bearings. this, and anyone feel free to correct me if i am off base, is a weak spot in the engine and the bearings can go bad pretty easily, once they do... not good.
some others say that there is noise/vibration/ride harshness issues with using the aluminum bushings, i've had them in since february without issue, i love em, and i feel that they were a HUGE improvement over the stock ones i had. I also lucked out and found a member that was in the mood to completely unload every SHO part he had cheap and scored re-enforced motor mounts, and a new transmission mount. everything is so much tighter now and i can rev my engine with the hood up and there is little if any noticable motor rock.
while you have the valve covers off i seriously recommend cleaning the crap out of everything in sight you can reach, and being very careful taking the valve cover bolts on and off, they bottom out in the head, and are kind of difficult extract and to replace if you break one and arent so lucky to find a SHO in the junk yard. also, try and find a set of motorcraft plug wires. the aftermarket ones dont have a very solid fit and most people here run stock wires.
you should also look into doing a front 60k if you haven't yet (timing belt, water pump, cam seals, cam sensor, crank position sensor, belts, hoses, front main seal, etc) once again i was lucky and the guy i bought all my SHO stuff from already had a spare motor with a front 60K done and 0 miles on it, so i am gonna swipe all the stuff i listed (minus the seals, i have new ones) and do mine soon.
when your clutch burns up and you are ready to get your clutch changed, you should strongly (IE definitely) change out your rod bearings. this, and anyone feel free to correct me if i am off base, is a weak spot in the engine and the bearings can go bad pretty easily, once they do... not good.
95mtxsholove
New Member
ok ill change those parts thanks alot for the information
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