94 Taurus SHO won’t start- weak spark

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Krispykreme

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I recently bought a 105k 1994 taurus SHO that has sat for over 4 years.

The engine wouldn’t start-

Items replaced so far
Ignition module
Ignition control module
Coil pack
New coils
New spark plug
New starter

I am still have weak spark. I am at total lost.
 

rubydist

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wires? I have had issues with wires, especially if the engine has had oil in the plug wells - in that case they want to short out to the head rather than making the plugs fire.
 

luigisho

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Has a coil pack shouldn't have individual coils. Wires is a good idea as rubydist said. If there is a crank sensor issue you will need to get a used one until a new batch is ready. These are almost impossible to find new as all supply chains have been empty for a long while now.
 

zoomlater

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A little more information about the car would be helpful. Did the previous owner say if the car was running before it was parked or parked due to some issue. What things were done when you first got the car? New battery? Still the same gas in the car? Checking the wiring to see if any animals got to it?

Clean and check all your grounds and connections (at the battery terminals, the ground near the battery, the ground at the firewall, the bottom two bolts on the DIS). How are you determining you have a weak spark?
 

SHOdded

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Were parts Ford brand or the generally accepted replacement brands? There are many poor quality offerings out there.
 

sperold

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Weak spark or no spark?

Try some "quick start" in the intake tubing, if there is any spark at all it will stumble around and start, if only momentarily.

If no spark, check the 10 amp fuse in the under-hood fuse box that is associated with the overflow bottle and the coil pack. Is your low coolant light on?
 

Krispykreme

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Thanks all for the reply.

Basically the car has sat since 2013. The engine can start before I bought the car with starting fluid at intake tubing. But after transporting from east coast to CA. It just won’t start at all.

Here is what we know so far.

1. Fuel pump is not working.
2. The fuel is now running external sources. So there is fuel to the car. It was verified to work.
3. The new spark plug and coil are not installed yet. I was given wrong information.
4. The ignition module, control module, coil pack, and starter are all original motorcraft parts.

items I found while at mechanic side
1. DIS is missing 2 bolts- which I think it’s causing the weak spark issue. The other terminal checked out fine.
2. It will crank. But just not start.
3. Weak spark is from spark testing light. Just barely light up.

The other question I have is how easy to swap this engine into another chassis. While transporting the car, the truck driver damaged the suspension (arms etc all screwed up). I have another SHO chassis to put into (1993 MTX). Is there any immobilizer or security system on the SHO?
 

Irish Pride

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The two bolts that secure the crossover to the rest of the manifold are also grounds. Make sure you have a good connection in these two spots, especially if you've have the intake removed at any point.

20200218 192505
 

Krispykreme

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Sigh

this is getting more than I bargain for.

can this engine be saved? I found a puddle of oil on cylinder 2

5F5DBF08 33B5 458A A3A8 547A46F294AD
 

zoomlater

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At a minimum to stop the oil leak. If you remove the valve covers, it would probably be a good idea on doing the top 60K service since you are there. Does the water pump look original? Is there any oil or coolant leaks below the water pump behind the crank bolt? If so, then the car probably hasn't had the front 60K done either, which is something to consider as well.
 

luigisho

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I see.

so I will need a valve gasket job and a new plug seals
Yes. This is a very common job for this motor. Get something in there to absorb the oil before you remove the plug so whatever other gritty particulates don't get a good opportunity to flow into the cylinder.

The first run through, take your time, label stuff in bags, tag hoses if you need to for reinstall. If you own one long enough you get very good at it but be thorough the first time or two to avoid having it not run due to owner error. Otherwise you retrace and maybe do most of it all over again. BTDT
 

Bryan

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Plug well seals are a common job for ANY motor nowadays with plugs going down through the valve covers. Shit just wears out over the time it is used. Replacing the valve cover gaskets on these cars isn't a hard job, just time consuming. However you should realize on a 25+ year old car things tend to wear out. That's like something to expect going in. The problem is more compounded when a vehicle sits for long periods without being used. Cars are meant to be driven. Not sit around for long periods doing nothing.
 

luigisho

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Also the valve cover bolts are very soft aluminum. When you reinstall you need to snug them without over tightening. The bottoms will shear off in the threaded holes and you will have all kinds of extra work. I did that my first time years ago and it was a PITA.
 

rubydist

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In addition, clean out all the crap from the allen hex on the heads of the valve cover bolts, because you need the allen wrench to go all the way down in that hex to ensure you don't round out the hex and have a big issue getting out those valve cover bolts.
 

Ir0nsah

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