Earlier last week my 93 atx's drive side rear caliper started sticking on my way home. Ive had the same problem with a Chrysler van that turned out to be a collapsed rubber brake line. So I changed the brake pads, rotor and caliper on the driver side and of course the rubber hoses. After replacing these things and bleeding the brakes the wheel was spinning freely. I bled the brakes twice on each side first with the car off and second with it running. I had the car jacked up while bleeding the brakes but it didn't seem to effect the flow of brake fluid coming out. Ive read that you need to have the car down to bleed the rear brakes but I did not seem to have any problem. After I bled the brakes the second time with the car running the rotor started hanging up on the caliper again. I did apply the E- brake a few times just to check how it was functioning after putting in a new caliper. Ive checked my e-brake cable and it releases on the caliper and there is slack in the line under the driver side of the car. The back passenger side caliper does not engage while pressing the e-brake because the lever is stuck down however the lever being stuck down does not effect the passenger side I checked and the wheel spins freely. I am not sure where to go from here after reading several posts searching for rear brake problems I can't really rule out the e-brake but i was also wondering if the proportioning valve could have anything to do with it. Im talking about the small some what square shaped box under the rear driver side. I read that it could get stuck in a certain position and cause bad braking and/or cause the calipers to not release properly. Like i said im not sure what to do from here but any input would be helpful im really excited to get back out on the road.:thankyou:
93 rear driver side brake
- Thread starter lotus816
- Start date
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1993MTXSHO
Its a Taurus...
I had a problem like this with my 93mtx, I changed everything, did everything by the books, ended up taking the car to my mechanic and he powerblead the whole system and that fixed the problem.
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
First, bleed order is RR, LF, LR, RF. Not one side then the other. Oh, and running the car does nothing.
Second, cable slack under the car does not indicate that your parking brake is fully releasing on the LR caliper. You have to check the lever on the caliper itself to make sure it is fully releasing.
Also, a failed cable or mechanism on the RR caliper is going to effect LR parking brake functionality since the adjuster is on the RR cable. If you've ever over-tightened the adjuster, you will see that one lever will stay down while the other is up. If you pry the down lever up, you'll find that the other lever is now down.
WRT to the bias valve, I would suspect a M/C problem before a bias valve problem, but it's certainly not impossible. Also, one bad caliper in the system can cause others to act badly. I'd also check your RF caliper since it's on the same circuit -- you could very well have a collapsed hose there.
Second, cable slack under the car does not indicate that your parking brake is fully releasing on the LR caliper. You have to check the lever on the caliper itself to make sure it is fully releasing.
Also, a failed cable or mechanism on the RR caliper is going to effect LR parking brake functionality since the adjuster is on the RR cable. If you've ever over-tightened the adjuster, you will see that one lever will stay down while the other is up. If you pry the down lever up, you'll find that the other lever is now down.
WRT to the bias valve, I would suspect a M/C problem before a bias valve problem, but it's certainly not impossible. Also, one bad caliper in the system can cause others to act badly. I'd also check your RF caliper since it's on the same circuit -- you could very well have a collapsed hose there.
Ive done the front brakes also and had no problem there but the whole thing with the e-brake i checked the lines earlier and the right rear cable is sitting in the adjuster kind of dangling freely when i push the e-brake the adjuster only line only moves maybe a 1/2 inch to a inch and the levers on the calipers them selves the drivers side driver sides goes up and down fine but the passenger's just sits in the down position or what would appear to be the engaged position but that wheel still turns fine?
91 shonice
New Member
I would check the caliper on the PS also.
I checked the caliper on the pass side yesterday the wheel doesn't have any other resistance (brakes i mean) to keep it from spinning freely but the drive side its not really hard to turn but it takes added effort not only that but while comparing the both the pass side makes a couple of complete spins while the drive side stops maybe a quarter spin after you let it go its only rubbing a little but even on small trips like to go to work it gets pretty hot enough for a noticeable temp change on the rim
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
The fact that your RR wheel turns freely with the parking brake lever stuck in the engaged position suggests that caliper has issues. Whether it's a mechanical failure or hydraulic (or combined), again that may be causing an issue effecting other parts of the braking system.
Start by getting both your rear brakes in order and parking brakes working and adjusted properly, then if you continue to have a grabbing problem you will have eliminated the rear calipers/pads/rotors/hoses/parking brake cables as suspects and corrected the non-functioning parking brake system at the same time.
Start by getting both your rear brakes in order and parking brakes working and adjusted properly, then if you continue to have a grabbing problem you will have eliminated the rear calipers/pads/rotors/hoses/parking brake cables as suspects and corrected the non-functioning parking brake system at the same time.
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