93 ATX Had No Output suddenly

[Winterhawk]

Driving down the road running about 55mph. The engine suddenly reved to 4,000 rpm's and then the car just coasted regardless of the shift lever position. I was stranded on a rode with a huge thunderstorm passing by. Lucky for Geico as I had tow coverage and it only cost me $28.00 for the 13 mile trip back home.

I did drive thru water earlier. The fluid looks perfect and the car only has 124,000 miles. Could it be a fuse? Or is it toast?

 

[Troubled93]

Does the car have the original tranny? Had the same issue on my 93 ATX, turns out it was a forward clutch piston inside the tranny. Hopefully this is not the case in yours. Does the car go into park or reverse? Have u tried driving it since then?

 

[Winterhawk]

Yes it goes into park but no reverse or drive. Not sure if it's original or not.

 

[Troubled93]

Most likely with only 124K on it... I guess the first thing you can try is just drop the pan and change the fluid and filter and see if it helps at all... if not sadly enough sounds like your another victim of the ATX... odds were never in your favor lol... its happened to me twice. Go steal one from a junkyard for 300-400 and swap er in. If you can find one from a 94-95

 

[Winterhawk]

Had 2 people at work tell me it was an electrical component. On top is a MLP. And the side another said to check a TR sensor. He said they were notorious for a sensor going bad. It should have a code. I'll see if my OBDI will display them. I have a factory manual and there are many electrical components. I hope it's one of them.

 

[Troubled93]

For your sake I hope your lucky enough for it to be just that... but having had this happen to me twice before, like I said... The odds were never in your favor with an ATX... keep us posted

 

[Winterhawk]

I do have some news. I pulled up a memory code of 452. No output from Vehicle Speed Sensor to PCM. Could this make the tyranny not work? It was never there before as it has been 111 all year.

 

[Winterhawk]

I got a code 452 VSS sensor that was never there before. I bought a new VSS sensor. How hard are the to put on. Also I'm thinking about a new MLP sensor. Any ideas as to if this might fix it? Or is it a toast? No warnings and ran strong just acted like it went into neutral on the highway at 55mph.

 

[Winterhawk]

I loosened a transmission line to the radiator with the car running in park. Just a drip. Is this normal? Can a sensor cause no pressure? Does it need to be in drive to get pressure? Anyone know if a bad MLP sensor could cause it to act like it's in neutral?

 

[Troubled93]

I havent had to change of those yet, but from other members that have they dont seem to terribly hard to change... search the forum for the service manual and that should give you some sort of idea as to what exactly you are working with.

 

[Winterhawk]

I'm so frustrated now after talking to Certified and Amco Transmission people. They could not answer a couple of simple questions.

1) Will I have pressure at my tranny cooling lines at the radiator in Park or in drive or both? They didn't know.

2) My code 452 Vehicle speed sensor, would it prevent the vehicle from going into drive, 1, 2, 3 and reverse? They said possible.

I asked them what test would they run? They said pull the codes. I told them I did, no response. They said they could use an oscilloscope? WTF?

I'm not sure what to do next. I have a new VSS, and thinking about getting a new MLP sensor also. Dropping the oil pan and look for broken parts maybe. Weird that it happened in a down pour and now slipping, noise or anything, just coasted to the side of the road and I didn't notice if the speedo was working or not when the tranny shut off. All I know is the 452 code was not there before as after I got it on the road last year it has been flawless with 111 codes. Can anyone help? The Transmission shops around here I think are crooks. I can get a new rebuilt Power source with an Art Carr Torque converter for 1,400.00 delivered and a 400.00 core. Amco said they rebuild their own which means to me they replace what's broke only and charge you the same as a rebuilt one with mostly new parts mail ordered.

 

[Winterhawk]

I do have 2 factory service manuals for it BTW.

 

[Winterhawk]

I just read a Mitchell TSB that said to check the pressure tubes if you have a no move condition with no codes. Apparently the TSB states that a tube can slip off causing this. Remedy is a stringer tube to tap into place with lock tight and place new supporting bracket pushing the pressure lines in. In the book it looks like it's under the filter on the 17 bolt pan. Anyone else heard of this. I've ran out of ideas for awhile other than pay Jasper or Certified 3 grand or less for a remedy.

 

[Winterhawk]

I dropped the tranny pan and filter. The fluid and the bottom of the pan looked like it was just changed yesterday. By looking at my pressure lines it looks like a line or 2 are puled back some. I can see a 1/2 inch smaller part of a tube not into the case. Not sure if this is normal or not but my TSB I have here dated 10/5/1994 Bulletin number 94-20-9 on 1993 SHO's this can happen resulting in no movement and probably no codes.

Nobody on here know if all pressure lines should be shoved into the case all the way and no smaller tube part showing?

 

[Winterhawk]

I dropped the pan and saw this. Is it normal? The TSB says it's a radial type seal. Looks like it pulled out some. There is a little piece of plastic stuck in the smaller tapered end it looks like. TSB says lack of pressure could cause no movement.

 

[milestoldyouso2]

sounds like your pump quit with no pressure or fluid flow. try unplugging the tr sensor and shift through all your gears, this operates your transmission at full line pressure. your picture looks normal thats how they are, the line extends all the way through the case into a clutch piston.

 

[projectSHO89]

sounds like your pump quit with no pressure or fluid flow. try unplugging the tr sensor and shift through all your gears, this operates your transmission at full line pressure. your picture looks normal thats how they are, the line extends all the way through the case into a clutch piston.

He already clearly identified the problem as being a rear **** tube that popped out....

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