Spent most the day cleaning pistons, but I did get some time to hone at least three of the cylinders. Since my crank is still installed I needed to take extra care to avoid getting material in & around it, but also to limit the mess on the upper parts of the block.
Here's what I came up with.
1) First I taped off the cylinder to be honed. I later modified this and taped off the whole surface for the remaining cyls also. I cut a 13 gallon garbage bag in half and laid it over the one side.
2) I took another garbage bag, folded it a few times so it was the width of the cylinder. This one I draped over the crank to protect it.
3) I also cut a circular piece of heavy cardboard (over-sized for the cyl) and slid it down to the bottom of the cylinder so it could rest on the crank. I didn't want to have the hone hit the crank at all. It was necessary to rotate the crank before doing anything so the big counter-weight was out of the way for that cylinder.
As added protection I stuffed a rag between the cardboard and the garbage-bag wrapped crank. This allowed me to be able to slide the hone down until I heard it hit the cardboard.
4) I added a third garbage bag and taped the upper two together. Here it is already for surgery.
5) Now to keep the oil on the hone from flying everywhere (which turned out wasn't that bad since the drill is used a such low speeds) - I modified a small box I had so that the hone could spin freely in it before entering the piston. The height of the box needs to be around 6.5" for the shorter ball hones. I'm using the 92mm hone (thanks Tom). This worked out really well and I had almost no spill-over or mess.
6) As I did each cylinder, I just held the drill in one hand and the box in the other - with the hone positioned inside the box. I lined up the box & hone over the cylinder, set the drill at the correct speed, held the box against the block, and started honing.
Here's the results. Even though it's only a light hone, it took 8-10 in & out cycles to get that. The glaze on these cyls must be hard.
Here's a before for that cylinder to compare with.
Here's what I came up with.
1) First I taped off the cylinder to be honed. I later modified this and taped off the whole surface for the remaining cyls also. I cut a 13 gallon garbage bag in half and laid it over the one side.
2) I took another garbage bag, folded it a few times so it was the width of the cylinder. This one I draped over the crank to protect it.
3) I also cut a circular piece of heavy cardboard (over-sized for the cyl) and slid it down to the bottom of the cylinder so it could rest on the crank. I didn't want to have the hone hit the crank at all. It was necessary to rotate the crank before doing anything so the big counter-weight was out of the way for that cylinder.
As added protection I stuffed a rag between the cardboard and the garbage-bag wrapped crank. This allowed me to be able to slide the hone down until I heard it hit the cardboard.
4) I added a third garbage bag and taped the upper two together. Here it is already for surgery.
5) Now to keep the oil on the hone from flying everywhere (which turned out wasn't that bad since the drill is used a such low speeds) - I modified a small box I had so that the hone could spin freely in it before entering the piston. The height of the box needs to be around 6.5" for the shorter ball hones. I'm using the 92mm hone (thanks Tom). This worked out really well and I had almost no spill-over or mess.
6) As I did each cylinder, I just held the drill in one hand and the box in the other - with the hone positioned inside the box. I lined up the box & hone over the cylinder, set the drill at the correct speed, held the box against the block, and started honing.
Here's the results. Even though it's only a light hone, it took 8-10 in & out cycles to get that. The glaze on these cyls must be hard.
Here's a before for that cylinder to compare with.
