Well, I have a nice rack naughty out of a 91's SHO that I want to swap into my bizarre acting 93 Atx. It is very notchy at slow speeds and I'd like eliminate the VAPs anyways. Question is, what do I have to know before swapping the entire rack and tie rods? Is anything different? What plug-ins will go unused etc? Any info would be great, but I need to do this, replace ball joints and maybe try a new motor mount while I'm in there. One other thing... is there any advantage to having the subframe off when doing rod bearings? Does it make life easier when installing the oil pan? If so I may wait till spring and do everything at once... just thought I'd ask. Thanks in advance... thumb
91' Steering rack install on a 93 ATX... questions.
- Thread starter ACV1081
- Start date
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projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
The 91's rack should swap right in. To eliminate the VAPS, just delete the VAPS controller connections. The only remaining electical connection to the rack will then be the PSP.
There is very little advantage in dropping the subframe for the rod bearing job. However, if you drop it, everything else (rack, engine mount, and lower control arms) is easier.
Steve
There is very little advantage in dropping the subframe for the rod bearing job. However, if you drop it, everything else (rack, engine mount, and lower control arms) is easier.
Steve
BenSwanson
New Member
I got that rack 22-214 and there are no electrical connections on it. Is that right? Also Im not sure which connections to use for return/input. Thanks for any help.
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
Ben,
For that rack, there is a "port" into which the Power Steering Pressure Switch (PSP) screws. It will be the only electrical connector on the replacement installation.
The inlet and outlet ports for the fluid lines should be exactly the same as on the original rack. Unfortunately, the connections are the same size, so there is no easily distinguishable feature to get you oriented in the event you are lost.
On the old rack, look into the two ports. One should have a small metal disk with a hole in the center of it seated in the bottom of the port (unless it fell out). This is the inlet port and that check valve should be transferred to the replacement rack. It can be extracted with either a magnetic retriever or a dental pick. Make certain it is fully seated into the port, otherwise your pressure line's quick connect coupling will be disconnected when the nut on the connector is tightened down.
Make sure you use new Teflon sealing rings on the two lines. They are about 50 cents each at the dealership. Use a large diameter punch to stretch them out enough to get them over the threads of the connector nuts. Do not use Teflon tape as it may fragment when installed and can cause spool valve damage in your replacement rack.
Doublecheck your connections. If they are reversed, you can destroy a brand new rack the first time the engine is started.
Steve
For that rack, there is a "port" into which the Power Steering Pressure Switch (PSP) screws. It will be the only electrical connector on the replacement installation.
The inlet and outlet ports for the fluid lines should be exactly the same as on the original rack. Unfortunately, the connections are the same size, so there is no easily distinguishable feature to get you oriented in the event you are lost.
On the old rack, look into the two ports. One should have a small metal disk with a hole in the center of it seated in the bottom of the port (unless it fell out). This is the inlet port and that check valve should be transferred to the replacement rack. It can be extracted with either a magnetic retriever or a dental pick. Make certain it is fully seated into the port, otherwise your pressure line's quick connect coupling will be disconnected when the nut on the connector is tightened down.
Make sure you use new Teflon sealing rings on the two lines. They are about 50 cents each at the dealership. Use a large diameter punch to stretch them out enough to get them over the threads of the connector nuts. Do not use Teflon tape as it may fragment when installed and can cause spool valve damage in your replacement rack.
Doublecheck your connections. If they are reversed, you can destroy a brand new rack the first time the engine is started.
Steve
SHOtimer
#2910
Steve, would the 22-214 rack also work on a '95 ATX with VAPS that I am wanting to replace the rack and delete the VAPS. These posts are great and so is your amazing knowledge on the subject. I don't even need to post a new subject for myself I am just reviewing and learning from these. So, besides making sure you have the lines right, with new teflon seals, transferring the check valve, and putting the PSP switch with its connection, the VAPs plugs that would go into the rack just get tucked away somewhere and don't get plugged in to anything, and that is that?
Thanx, Doug
Thanx, Doug
BenSwanson
New Member
THere is no port into which I can screw the PSP switch. The hole that is there is not threaded and it is closed in. Sorry for being a pain.
BenSwanson
New Member
Im trying to post a picture. I think I have the wrong rack as there is no where to plug in the PSP switch. Here is a picture of it. The two holes on the bottom are return/input and the top hole (where the pSP switch should screw in is not threaded and is closed in.
BenSwanson
New Member
I am guessing what I need is an adapter that has a T on it for the PSP sensor and I can still screw the hose into the end of it
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
There should have been a port for that switch. Mine did. Can't use a T connector.
Was the port on the old rack in the same spot as the blank "non" hole on the replacement?
Steve
BenSwanson
New Member
Yes, same exact place. But the port is sealed and it is not threaded. There is a diagram in my Chiltons of the non-sho rack that has this fitting that allows the PSP sensor to screw into where the input line goes. I am guessing I should go this route?
why do you wnat to elimate the vaps?
you also know that the stearing racio for the non vaps cars are worse (2 more turns from lock to lock i think)
i actualy want to ad vaps to my car.... mumm can i have your woring and controlers for the vaps :-D
you also know that the stearing racio for the non vaps cars are worse (2 more turns from lock to lock i think)
i actualy want to ad vaps to my car.... mumm can i have your woring and controlers for the vaps :-D
BenSwanson
New Member
Yes you can have my wiring and stuff for the vaps. The difference in the plumbing for this rack and the VAPS rack is that the PSP switch screws directly into the rack in the VAPS rack. On the non vaps rack the PSP switch screws into an angle in the piping of the inlet hose for the rack. Now I think I am going to have to buy a different rack unless I can manufacture some type of fitting for this one.
Would you be interested in a used VASP Rack from a '95 Sable 3.8 car with 36K one owner miles? And no, it is not off of one of my Bondurant cars. It is on a local car that was hit/crashed just enough in the front center to pop both air bags and total the car out, or that is what the insurance company thinks. The car and the rack look like almost brand new.
thumb
If so, shoot me a email.
Later,
Mike
[email protected]
<small>[ December 23, 2003, 08:52 PM: Message edited by: BigCaney ]</small>
thumb
If so, shoot me a email.
Later,
Mike
[email protected]
<small>[ December 23, 2003, 08:52 PM: Message edited by: BigCaney ]</small>
