89 Shi# box

[Carlos J]

First time poster I have problems with my EGR not working I replace EGR and Vacuum switch were does the signal come from?
I need help passing emissions if some one can help me I will really appreciated.
Thank you.

 

[SHOrod]

Is there a particular diagnostic code that is causing you to not pass emissions? Or what is it about the EGR that doesn't work? Have you tried pulling a vacuum on it to see if it moves and holds position under vacuum?

-Rod

 

[luigisho]

do you know how close you are to passing emissions? Sometimes pulling the SPOUT plug will default timing and help at the margins for emissions. Is it not passing from testing tailpipe or just computer codes? If codes which ones do you have?

 

[BaySHO Performance]

What year car is this? What code did you get?

Detach the small tube from the EGR valve. Attach a same diameter hose to the valve and suck on it. You should hear the valve diaphragm opening and closing, which indicates that the valve is good.

Now start the engine and suck on the valve again. The revs should drop a little. If the revs stay constant the nostrils behind the throttle body are blocked. Remove the TB and clear them.

Next up is to check the bellows at the bottom of the EGR tube. I've had many cases where they have split. They can't be tig welded because the metal gets too thin. You could try plugging the hole with muffler mender and putting a hose clamp over the repair to keep it in place. Failing that, my Mickey Mouse solution is to delete the bellows and use a 1/2" ID galvanized steel pipe from the plumbing section of a hardware store and stuff it into a length of 600 degree 5/8" silicone hose from http://www.turbohoses.com. Lasts for about a year before the four hose clamps get loose and need retightening. Often but not always I replace the hose as well.

If this is a Gen 1 MTX, next up is to unbolt the PFE sensor from the rear head and attach a tube to the sampling pipe. Suck on that. If the pipe is blocked, the best approach is to cut the tube so that the blockage can be drilled out.

 

[Carlos J]

Is there a particular diagnostic code that is causing you to not pass emissions? Or what is it about the EGR that doesn't work? Have you tried pulling a vacuum on it to see if it moves and holds position under vacuum?

-Rod

I installed new EGR and it does hold vacuum I have order about $200 in parts from R A I'm going to shotgun all the emissions parts every thing but the cats and pray for the best I don't know how to pull codes on it is there a reader my generation of car 89????

 

[SHOrod]

There is a way to pull diagnostic codes using a test light or the Check Engine Light as the indicator and jumpering a couple of terminals of the EEC diagnostic connector. I don't recall which version of EEC the '89 model year used, but if you still have the connector dust cover under the hood, it's probably molded into the plastic cover (something like "EEC-III" or "EEC-IV"). With that information, there are several websites that describe the process to pull diagnostic codes. Otherwise, yes, there are still scan tools and code readers available that are compatible with OBD-I systems, but they are getting to be less and less easy to find.

-Rod

 

[BaySHO Performance]

So this is an "89. To pull codes: http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/EEC_Self_Test_Procedure

You will have 2 digit codes. The code meanings can be accessed from the link above. Expect a 33: EGR Valve opening not detected.

I also recommend getting one of these. Makes the job much simpler:

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW/ref=sr_1_5?crid=Y1JPLUCO6F4T&keywords=innova+3145+ford+digital+obd1+code+reader&qid=1654705851&sprefix=innova+3145%2Caps%2C353&sr=8-5