Glad you stopped and rethought through it all. Water cool - then do it - check valves, sound like a no brainier. Not allowing gravity to defeat you and release pressure..... No brainers.
802SHO 2010 Build
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My turn. This is my setup and what I need to change/add
Anyone know what our oil feed lines are pressurized to? 40 psi needs to be the target and I interpreted this to mean the restrictor makes that happen but could be wrong 
Found this gem. 
My mpg affected by the PCV not hooked up. Checked my codes I had installed the harness to the heated PCV with the fuel PCV harness. So it’s hooked up correctly now.
However getting the real fitting, the brown one Friday from Ford. Got confirmation the scavenger tank needs to be vented. Bad advice from Turbowerx.
Which leads me to believe that 70% of my issues even with the non heated PCV (it would still flow just if it were very cold out the gases could freeze hence why the heater) my problems were from hot turbocharger oil gases expanding and being trapped in my lines and sent back to the block with the pump where it easily over powered the PCV system. Regardless by this weekend it’ll be redone in more ways than 1. I think I should change the oil I may have a lot of fuel dilution if I was running pig rich from the overpowered PCV causing 5mpg.
My mpg affected by the PCV not hooked up. Checked my codes I had installed the harness to the heated PCV with the fuel PCV harness. So it’s hooked up correctly now. However getting the real fitting, the brown one Friday from Ford. Got confirmation the scavenger tank needs to be vented. Bad advice from Turbowerx.
Which leads me to believe that 70% of my issues even with the non heated PCV (it would still flow just if it were very cold out the gases could freeze hence why the heater) my problems were from hot turbocharger oil gases expanding and being trapped in my lines and sent back to the block with the pump where it easily over powered the PCV system. Regardless by this weekend it’ll be redone in more ways than 1. I think I should change the oil I may have a lot of fuel dilution if I was running pig rich from the overpowered PCV causing 5mpg.
Looks like that guy in the youtube video was a good source. Sounds like his direction is more in line with those changes you are making. He even made a snarky remark that his competitors made poor suggestions.
Yeah he’s a smart guy the one thing actually I’m not going to do is move the pump. More than confident in that pump. It just needs a check valve after the scavenger tank feed to the pump at the base of the tank. I just ordered the one and done crankcase ventilation setup. I hollowed out the PCV valve on the rear valve cover and it and the front crankcase valve are all getting 5/8 quick disconnect 90 to -10 AN to a 2 liter 6x9x4 catch tank with -20AN cap with 1/8 NPT to -8AN breather filter. The scavenger tank is getting its 1/8 NPT vent converted to -8AN and that’s also going straight to the catch tank. That 2 liter tank has a glass fluid volume quick glance setup for easy viewing to not have to open. All the venting!! Water to the turbos and all their hoses and fittings. My UPR dual valve catch can will be up for sale soon.
I never needed that stupid heated PCV valve….all it’s for is to heat the element so that it doesn’t freeze the element closed in cold weather….I don’t need that shit. Add that code to my list. So it’s going to always be open and always venting both valve covers and scavenger tank at all times and VTA. See ya excessive crankcase pressure! I got enough venting to raise the neighborhoods heat bill over the winter hahah! F this shit! DONE
I never needed that stupid heated PCV valve….all it’s for is to heat the element so that it doesn’t freeze the element closed in cold weather….I don’t need that shit. Add that code to my list. So it’s going to always be open and always venting both valve covers and scavenger tank at all times and VTA. See ya excessive crankcase pressure! I got enough venting to raise the neighborhoods heat bill over the winter hahah! F this shit! DONE
Those check valves will be a great odea, and something you are missing. Water cooling the turbos will be better.
Well I found an even better solution. Turbo smart makes a 1 way, returnless, oil pressure regulator. The restrictor fitting will be replaced with a straight through -4AN. Also it won’t have under flow conditions by removing the restrictor. I only need 1 as I’m using 1 oil feed on the front of the block and T’ing off. I’ll put the oil pressure regulator at the oil feed outlet of the block and will have to have someone rev so I can set it to 40 psi. I can use the gauge off my fuel pressure regulator…which is really just to set it. I could remove the gauge but maybe I’ll leave that on, but for now I’ll borrow it and use it to set the oil pressure regulator to 40 psi and I don’t even need to know what peak oil psi is for my built motor…just need it limited to 40 for the turbos. https://eliteracefab.com/products/turbosmart-opr-v2-turbo-oil-pressure-regulator
For ***** and giggles. This is how easy it is to see oil leaks with just the UV light …goggles help you see even more. I could see the same exactly fluorescent color without dye. This does have dye in it but…no color change. You really just need the UV light. This is some of the least oil splatter but what I’m talking about. 
The one areas new to me was the rear oil drain you can see my fittings need to be snugged up…these guy is what sent oil flinging up on my hood and drilled all over my axle and outer tie rod. 
The one areas new to me was the rear oil drain you can see my fittings need to be snugged up…these guy is what sent oil flinging up on my hood and drilled all over my axle and outer tie rod. 
Autox4fun
SHO Member
UPR Plug N Play Adjustable Hi-Flo PCV Valve (2011-2023 Mustang, F150,
UPR's Billet adjustable PCV fittings are the only Fix for the FORD MOPAR PCV System Problems that suffer from Excessive Burning Oil or Oil Consumption or Oil Ingestion. Designed to control oil consumption and improve combustion and provides a fix for any 5.0 engine that experiencing oil...
www.uprproducts.com
I’m selling mine. I have a big boy catch tank that’s VTA coming and both valve covers will vent to it plus the scavenger tank. 2 liter capacity. It also can catch a lot more than that it’s got a total of 4 (-10AN) and 4 (-8AN) ports to vent all kinds of stuff to it. Likely all my issues are the scavenger tank vent being plugged but this will surpass UPR can capacities by a large margin. In my war against the PCV system…what I’ve got coming is like a nuclear bomb…I win! Even if it’s over the top…I win. Bye bye inadequate PCV system.UPR Plug N Play Adjustable Hi-Flo PCV Valve (2011-2023 Mustang, F150,
UPR's Billet adjustable PCV fittings are the only Fix for the FORD MOPAR PCV System Problems that suffer from Excessive Burning Oil or Oil Consumption or Oil Ingestion. Designed to control oil consumption and improve combustion and provides a fix for any 5.0 engine that experiencing oil...
I over flexed my cart and bought 2….well…bolt them together I guess! 
It showed their cap with a filter on it so I was confused. But whatever there is an 1/8 NPT breather vent…but I’ll open it up on the top side and touch up the threads if I need to. I’ll add my filters with tiny modification
See what I mean? I’ll just drill out the top, check the threads, retap if necessary and add the 1/8npt -8AN on top with breather filter. Each valve cover has it own 2 liter tank now. Send it. That’s better anyway
It showed their cap with a filter on it so I was confused. But whatever there is an 1/8 NPT breather vent…but I’ll open it up on the top side and touch up the threads if I need to. I’ll add my filters with tiny modification
See what I mean? I’ll just drill out the top, check the threads, retap if necessary and add the 1/8npt -8AN on top with breather filter. Each valve cover has it own 2 liter tank now. Send it. That’s better anyway
Getting closer. Having been working on a non running car for so long…I see the massive difference in excitement from completing a project and then just looking at it VS completing a project and being able to start it and drive it. So glad to be at the latter.
Ordering AN fittings isn’t as easy as you might think. I just made another order today and will have them Wednesday. Wednesday evening I should be able to start the car again. I’ll allow for Thursday early afternoon….guess it depends on how late I finish Wednesday evening bc I have no fans with how loud the car is. I’ll make very little (but some) effort to not start it if it’s near 9pm….lame. But whatever.
My AN hose making is advancing. Part of why I ordered more fittings. For instance the turbosmart one-way, returnless, oil pressure regulator can be added to my existing oil feed line with just a -4AN JIC straight female union fitting. It’s short and will add very little length. I can unscrew the Y fitting feed, add the oil regulator, add the female union and just simply reattach the Y. Shortest possibly length added, that will still give me a tiny clearance to my fan. I can make the connection in another way, with what I have, which would be instead of that short and sweet female union, it would have to be 2 female to hose straight fittings and a short run of hose, but then that will add let’s say…4 inches +/-. So what’s happening is my hose making is advancing to not just can I connect A-B? But how can I connect A-B with the shortest hose and least amount of connections? Not that I’m worried about AN threads, they are the Cat’s meow! No sealant or thread tape needed. And perhaps the desire for a shorter hose involves adding to an existing hose in order to avoid completely redoing it.
I drained my oil out, and I removed my oil return tank outlet to scavenger pump hose connection on the tank. Lots of oil in there so the turbos are draining very well. I opened the vent on that tank and it just came pouring out…much the same as draining your oil pan and forgetting to remove the oil cap…once you remove the oil cap it can flow. But just to see the difference and realize that the turbo oil return tank and pump system, is its own separate system as the turbo seals are now like the valve cover oil cap. That pump must have created so much vacuum in that sealed tank and plumbing…with extra extra hot oil without water cooling….just makes sense it pumped it back into the block and easily….easily overwhelmed the sealed/recirculating PCV system. Well that puppy is vented now. And I installed the Vibrant Performance one way check valve…even with the line not connected yet, installing that check valve the ball fell with gravity back to the base of the fitting and the line didn’t leak a drop hanging vertical. I’m pumped to have this tank vented now and that check valve in that critical spot, preventing oil reverse flowing with gravity back into the tank. Two major improvements.
This is a good read if anyone is taking a shit lol! I didn’t take pics of it but will add pics when I’m done the whole project. With those two suckers subdued, I went about deciding on how to plumb the water to the turbos. I ended up cutting each 3/8 pipe down and plugged the rear feeds as I’m not feeding and returning in the rear. Converted the pipes to -6AN and made sure to have them oriented in feed and return.
The bottom is feed the top is return. And finding out 100% it sure the H.E. L. L. Is. I drained the top portion of the radiator down maybe half a gallon. Basically the reservoir is empty. I knew I’d get some coolant out of those feed and return lines but once it was basically done dripping…well the return is up higher than the feed that did stop dripping entirely but that feed….is a feed for a reason, it’s definitely a little gravity fed and lowest on the intake, so after 3-4 hours it never completely stopped dripping. Would be bad to mix those up routing everything! Each feed and return line go to a -6AN Fragola T fitting. Luckily with these Garrett G25-550 turbos there are 2 water inlets and 2 water outlets on each cartridge. Which allowed me to use an inlet and outlet on the same side. On the bracket side it’s just not doable unless I did a -6AN male to female fitting and then used a -6AN male to male fitting to have it come straight out 3-4 inches and then add a 45 or 90.
To use both sides of each I wouldn’t be able to do 2 90’s bc one would block the other so I did a 90 inlet and 45 outlet. And you can see how specific ordering AN fittings can get…if I were to have paid close enough attention I should have ordered a -6AN female 90 to hose end fitting. My 90 is a -6AN female to female….so I had to use a -6AN male straight union. Then add a -6AN straight fitting to hose end. If that sounds confusing try ordering 30 fittings and then find you still need something or…you could have used less fittings if you understood in great detail all the connections.
They are starting to look like little Predators with dreads lol!
I also have an oil cap -10AN straight breather cap from @Ecoboost_xsport leaving his build and becoming part of mine. Again there he’s sending me -10 O-ring straight fitting so the top is -10 male. You’d then need to add a -10 female to hose end 90….but then it’s tall coming off the oil cap. So part of my order is a -10 O-ring to 90 male fitting…from there it’ll be a straight -10 female to hose end fitting but the hose will be straight anyway so the straight fitting of no consequence to the line length. So there it’ll be shorter and more appealing to look at …a 90 right off the cap. This is a nice cap btw. John always got his hands on some trick shit no one else does.
So I’ll actually vent the front valve cover twice ….and I did end up buying 1 more of the front OEM crankcase vent tubes bc it’s straight through design 5/8 OD. And it’s funny bc I look at the 2 liter catch tanks and what’s up with the bottom ports? You glance and think…all the ports to vent all kinds of stuff but….whats the sense of the bottom ports bc you wouldn’t be able to fill the tank even past 1/4 full bc the fluid would raise above the ports???! So I’ll use the top ports. And the -20 cap with only a small 1/8 NPT? Another thing I went around searching for locally….youd think I was searching for some exotic alien metal….i finally found a 3/8 NPT tap…and in a different town a 37/64 drill bit. So im drilling and tapping the -20 catch tank caps to use a 3/8 NPT to -8AN fitting to my -8AN 50x50mm breather filters. 3/8- 8AN is straight through. Just from what I’ve learned so far…that 1/8 NPT makes 0 sense…with venting…just get it out. You could do -12 AN. Just an update and I’m excited to get all this installed and done and I’m confidently expecting one super happy and healthy car on the other end.
Ordering AN fittings isn’t as easy as you might think. I just made another order today and will have them Wednesday. Wednesday evening I should be able to start the car again. I’ll allow for Thursday early afternoon….guess it depends on how late I finish Wednesday evening bc I have no fans with how loud the car is. I’ll make very little (but some) effort to not start it if it’s near 9pm….lame. But whatever.
My AN hose making is advancing. Part of why I ordered more fittings. For instance the turbosmart one-way, returnless, oil pressure regulator can be added to my existing oil feed line with just a -4AN JIC straight female union fitting. It’s short and will add very little length. I can unscrew the Y fitting feed, add the oil regulator, add the female union and just simply reattach the Y. Shortest possibly length added, that will still give me a tiny clearance to my fan. I can make the connection in another way, with what I have, which would be instead of that short and sweet female union, it would have to be 2 female to hose straight fittings and a short run of hose, but then that will add let’s say…4 inches +/-. So what’s happening is my hose making is advancing to not just can I connect A-B? But how can I connect A-B with the shortest hose and least amount of connections? Not that I’m worried about AN threads, they are the Cat’s meow! No sealant or thread tape needed. And perhaps the desire for a shorter hose involves adding to an existing hose in order to avoid completely redoing it.
I drained my oil out, and I removed my oil return tank outlet to scavenger pump hose connection on the tank. Lots of oil in there so the turbos are draining very well. I opened the vent on that tank and it just came pouring out…much the same as draining your oil pan and forgetting to remove the oil cap…once you remove the oil cap it can flow. But just to see the difference and realize that the turbo oil return tank and pump system, is its own separate system as the turbo seals are now like the valve cover oil cap. That pump must have created so much vacuum in that sealed tank and plumbing…with extra extra hot oil without water cooling….just makes sense it pumped it back into the block and easily….easily overwhelmed the sealed/recirculating PCV system. Well that puppy is vented now. And I installed the Vibrant Performance one way check valve…even with the line not connected yet, installing that check valve the ball fell with gravity back to the base of the fitting and the line didn’t leak a drop hanging vertical. I’m pumped to have this tank vented now and that check valve in that critical spot, preventing oil reverse flowing with gravity back into the tank. Two major improvements.
This is a good read if anyone is taking a shit lol! I didn’t take pics of it but will add pics when I’m done the whole project. With those two suckers subdued, I went about deciding on how to plumb the water to the turbos. I ended up cutting each 3/8 pipe down and plugged the rear feeds as I’m not feeding and returning in the rear. Converted the pipes to -6AN and made sure to have them oriented in feed and return.
The bottom is feed the top is return. And finding out 100% it sure the H.E. L. L. Is. I drained the top portion of the radiator down maybe half a gallon. Basically the reservoir is empty. I knew I’d get some coolant out of those feed and return lines but once it was basically done dripping…well the return is up higher than the feed that did stop dripping entirely but that feed….is a feed for a reason, it’s definitely a little gravity fed and lowest on the intake, so after 3-4 hours it never completely stopped dripping. Would be bad to mix those up routing everything! Each feed and return line go to a -6AN Fragola T fitting. Luckily with these Garrett G25-550 turbos there are 2 water inlets and 2 water outlets on each cartridge. Which allowed me to use an inlet and outlet on the same side. On the bracket side it’s just not doable unless I did a -6AN male to female fitting and then used a -6AN male to male fitting to have it come straight out 3-4 inches and then add a 45 or 90.
To use both sides of each I wouldn’t be able to do 2 90’s bc one would block the other so I did a 90 inlet and 45 outlet. And you can see how specific ordering AN fittings can get…if I were to have paid close enough attention I should have ordered a -6AN female 90 to hose end fitting. My 90 is a -6AN female to female….so I had to use a -6AN male straight union. Then add a -6AN straight fitting to hose end. If that sounds confusing try ordering 30 fittings and then find you still need something or…you could have used less fittings if you understood in great detail all the connections.
They are starting to look like little Predators with dreads lol!
I also have an oil cap -10AN straight breather cap from @Ecoboost_xsport leaving his build and becoming part of mine. Again there he’s sending me -10 O-ring straight fitting so the top is -10 male. You’d then need to add a -10 female to hose end 90….but then it’s tall coming off the oil cap. So part of my order is a -10 O-ring to 90 male fitting…from there it’ll be a straight -10 female to hose end fitting but the hose will be straight anyway so the straight fitting of no consequence to the line length. So there it’ll be shorter and more appealing to look at …a 90 right off the cap. This is a nice cap btw. John always got his hands on some trick shit no one else does.
So I’ll actually vent the front valve cover twice ….and I did end up buying 1 more of the front OEM crankcase vent tubes bc it’s straight through design 5/8 OD. And it’s funny bc I look at the 2 liter catch tanks and what’s up with the bottom ports? You glance and think…all the ports to vent all kinds of stuff but….whats the sense of the bottom ports bc you wouldn’t be able to fill the tank even past 1/4 full bc the fluid would raise above the ports???! So I’ll use the top ports. And the -20 cap with only a small 1/8 NPT? Another thing I went around searching for locally….youd think I was searching for some exotic alien metal….i finally found a 3/8 NPT tap…and in a different town a 37/64 drill bit. So im drilling and tapping the -20 catch tank caps to use a 3/8 NPT to -8AN fitting to my -8AN 50x50mm breather filters. 3/8- 8AN is straight through. Just from what I’ve learned so far…that 1/8 NPT makes 0 sense…with venting…just get it out. You could do -12 AN. Just an update and I’m excited to get all this installed and done and I’m confidently expecting one super happy and healthy car on the other end.
Bluezone
Tailgaters will be prosecuted.
When I was doing my intake manifold experiments. I had to relocate the oil breather box. So I had to tap the oil ports on the bottom of the box.
Yes, those 3/8 npt Taps are hard to find. Looked all over the place and turned out my neighbor had one. LOL
Yes, those 3/8 npt Taps are hard to find. Looked all over the place and turned out my neighbor had one. LOL
I’m just finishing this up. Can’t wait to test it after a short work day!
PCV system upgraded. OEM recirculated converted to VTA. 1 gallon capacity, dual 2 liter catch tanks. -20 AN 1/8 NPT tank caps converted to 3/8 NPT to -8AN filter breathers. Rear valve cover PCV valve replaced with straight through front PCV valve 5/8 OD. 5/8 OD quick disconnect 90 to -10 AN hose and fittings to 1 catch tank. Front valve cover PCV valve plugged and using Aero Flow oil cap breather -10AN, -10 AN O-Ring to 90, -10 AN all the way to the 2 catch tank.
Made use of an unused meth volute injection bracket and one of my OG carbon fiber splitter rods (one got broke in half when I bottomed out my front splitter 11/20 and they are discontinued).
Oil return tank upgraded with Vibrant Performance one way check valve. Oil was allowed to drain back into the tank when pump was shut off. Also, oil return post pump hose removed, inspected, found one fitting not tight enough, added more thermal protection also. Oil return tank vent unplugged and used 1/8 NPT to -8AN fitting and -8AN all the way to one catch tank.
Oil feed line was upgraded with a TurboSmart one way, returnless, oil pressure regulator with oil filter and preset to 40 psi by TurboSmart. Added to my existing oil feed -4AN line right before the Y fitting, using one -4AN straight female union fitting. Oil restrictor fittings on turbo oil inlet no longer needed and also bc of their 1mm orifice likely under flowing at idle and low pressure. Removed and drilled out to convert to straight through flow. If it flows 10 psi it’ll get 10 psi…if it flows 80 psi they can only get 40 psi which is Garrett’s target oil pressure.
Water cooling added to turbos. You’ve seen that but just to add to this post if all things completed
My go to online for AN accessories is Racetronix, out of Canada. Massive inventory everything is always in stock, best prices and reasonable shipping even to do 2 day is cheaper than my local 1 and only GreenMountain GearHeads where all they have is Fragola parts…pricey and I find Racetronix parts are equal materials but even more user friendly and cheaper. If I missed something in an order I would try GreenMTN GearHeads and that’s where I grabbed this larger breather filter (green) to swap with my roll over vent breather that was Racetronix brand. I didn’t mean to buy two catch tanks but since I did and decided to use both I was short one filter, but I had a matching filter I was using for my roll over vent so I bought the green one to swap with it and use for my catch tank so I had matching breathers up front and one off brand in the rear no big deal.
I bought more Driven BR40 10w40 and I drained all my oil to redo the oil hose fittings and such so another oil and filter change done. Coolant was added and I should be good to roll! With so many improvements I’m expecting success. Wish me luck
PCV system upgraded. OEM recirculated converted to VTA. 1 gallon capacity, dual 2 liter catch tanks. -20 AN 1/8 NPT tank caps converted to 3/8 NPT to -8AN filter breathers. Rear valve cover PCV valve replaced with straight through front PCV valve 5/8 OD. 5/8 OD quick disconnect 90 to -10 AN hose and fittings to 1 catch tank. Front valve cover PCV valve plugged and using Aero Flow oil cap breather -10AN, -10 AN O-Ring to 90, -10 AN all the way to the 2 catch tank.
Made use of an unused meth volute injection bracket and one of my OG carbon fiber splitter rods (one got broke in half when I bottomed out my front splitter 11/20 and they are discontinued).
Oil return tank upgraded with Vibrant Performance one way check valve. Oil was allowed to drain back into the tank when pump was shut off. Also, oil return post pump hose removed, inspected, found one fitting not tight enough, added more thermal protection also. Oil return tank vent unplugged and used 1/8 NPT to -8AN fitting and -8AN all the way to one catch tank.
Oil feed line was upgraded with a TurboSmart one way, returnless, oil pressure regulator with oil filter and preset to 40 psi by TurboSmart. Added to my existing oil feed -4AN line right before the Y fitting, using one -4AN straight female union fitting. Oil restrictor fittings on turbo oil inlet no longer needed and also bc of their 1mm orifice likely under flowing at idle and low pressure. Removed and drilled out to convert to straight through flow. If it flows 10 psi it’ll get 10 psi…if it flows 80 psi they can only get 40 psi which is Garrett’s target oil pressure.
Water cooling added to turbos. You’ve seen that but just to add to this post if all things completed
My go to online for AN accessories is Racetronix, out of Canada. Massive inventory everything is always in stock, best prices and reasonable shipping even to do 2 day is cheaper than my local 1 and only GreenMountain GearHeads where all they have is Fragola parts…pricey and I find Racetronix parts are equal materials but even more user friendly and cheaper. If I missed something in an order I would try GreenMTN GearHeads and that’s where I grabbed this larger breather filter (green) to swap with my roll over vent breather that was Racetronix brand. I didn’t mean to buy two catch tanks but since I did and decided to use both I was short one filter, but I had a matching filter I was using for my roll over vent so I bought the green one to swap with it and use for my catch tank so I had matching breathers up front and one off brand in the rear no big deal.
I bought more Driven BR40 10w40 and I drained all my oil to redo the oil hose fittings and such so another oil and filter change done. Coolant was added and I should be good to roll! With so many improvements I’m expecting success. Wish me luck
Andrew, you are an artist, amazing turn around from the unfortunate mess you had going on. Not a superstitious person, so I wish you the best!
Thank you
Can I have your headlights?
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