They’re about the same size 
802SHO 2010 Build
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Set up like this? Last smooth one tapered goes inside the pipe opening?? Have to go work for a couple hours any help greatly appreciated 
You see the barely larger one with same design matches and then smooth tapered goes inside the pipe…slightly smaller, so it’s double sealed to the intake manifold at the pipe ******? This makes sense but can someone confirm
You see the barely larger one with same design matches and then smooth tapered goes inside the pipe…slightly smaller, so it’s double sealed to the intake manifold at the pipe ******? This makes sense but can someone confirm
I agree check those hose lines to the UPR CC. You usng their check valves? Could be wrong way or not opening. I have a vented oil cap breather from CFM I will send ya.
Don't forget I sent ya my guy there, contact info.
You want my Breather let me know, I am in Detroit starting Monday.
Don't forget I sent ya my guy there, contact info.
You want my Breather let me know, I am in Detroit starting Monday.
I’d need it right now. I bought one but idk if it’ll fit is 3/8-1/2” and actually I think these are all 5/8. Could try to heat it up with a heat gun and stretch it on, before that I’ll search online for a local parts store to see if they got 5/8 ID.
https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-gasket-7t4z9439d/
parts.levittownfordparts.com
parts.levittownfordparts.com
2010 Taurus Workshop Manual
| Coolant crossover gasket (2 required) |
Original 2010-2019 Ford Manifold Gasket AA5Z-9439-BA | Levittown Ford Parts
2010-2019 Ford part # AA5Z-9439-BA - Manifold Gasket
parts.levittownfordparts.com
|
Original 2010-2024 Ford Gasket - Sold Individually AA5Z-9439-A | Levittown Ford Parts
2010-2024 Ford part # AA5Z-9439-A - Gasket - Sold Individually
parts.levittownfordparts.com
| intake manifold gasket (6 required) |
2010 Taurus Workshop Manual
| Item | Part Number | Description |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | W707083 | Intake manifold bolt (2 required) |
| 2 | W503279 | Intake manifold bolt (10 required) |
| 3 | 9424 | Intake manifold |
| 4 | 9439 | Coolant by-pass tube gasket |
| 5 | 9439 | Coolant crossover gasket (2 required) |
| 6 | 9439 | Intake manifold gasket (6 required) |
The issue was that notched gasket goes under the intake manifold and the smooth one goes here 
On the pipe along with that red one. So I had the smooth one in the wrong spot and didn’t have one here with the red one. Coolant leak is fixed. I installed a breather and deleted the UPR stuff.
I actually like the way this looks. So then I started the car and all was good. I set out to finally do my brake pad bed in procedure. 60mph and brake to 5 mph, no complete stops…and each time press the pedal harder and harder. Car was running great. Datalog was all setup and connected to the car this time. But kept telling me this when I started the log
******* computers. Well I was already driving and I tried starting it right before I started my break in procedure so couldn’t bother with why it all of a sudden had issues.
I did all the 60-5mph. Trans was already quickly learning and shifted great I was happy. Engine felt good I wanted to say felt best so far after deleting UPR and adding the breather. I thought…I’ll do one more 60-5mph. I slam on my brakes and then start to give it half throttle again to speed back up….mid way through…sudden loss of power, I see a burst of flames simultaneously from the wastegates….something isn’t right. Car is still running but seems to be low power. 60 mph road ends and I make my turn (yield to 40 mph road) so I didn’t have to stop….brakes are cooling down…ok well I did it finally but that last acceleration something wasn’t right. Rotora break in procedure is 10 60-5 stops. It seemed like a lot …but that’s what I had to do.
I give the car some gas and it seems ok again. I’m just cruising at 50 (speeding 10 over)….road turns to 40…then 30….Im coming up on traffic. Someone wants to slow down and turn and I give it gas and it feels like it’s about to die….it died.
Tried to start it it cranked over more than ever and started weakly and died again. I call Stefanie and I have her come in my truck and bring my toe strap and grab my hitch and pin. I towed myself back to my house. An officer showed up bc someone thought a car had crashed??? Either way he was cool and blocked traffic for me so I could set it up in the street to tow myself. Made it home without a scratch on her. Pulled the winch out and pulled it into the garage.
I don’t know what’s going on. Apparently the partially kinked UPR hose wasn’t it bc here we are again except this time the engine stalled. And didn’t want to start back up. I’m impressed that I had the tools and means to tow myself and didn’t get a scratch on her. I’m also happy that all the work I did came out great and the minor things I messed up I fixed. It didn’t leak any coolant. I don’t know why it’s puking out oil out and I’m not even sure from where. Yes both VVT solenoid seems are wet but the spray patterns seem like source is somewhere else or multiple sources. Excessive oil pressure or crank case pressure? Matt my engine builder hasn’t responded to any messages last night or this am. Benefit of the doubt of course he must be busy or sure..these are off hours but. Idk what’s going on. The work Ben, Kevin, Nick, my cousin Owen and myself is all fantastic. The engine I have no idea the issue. Sensors are all new, motor is new. I used recommended oil, did and checked with when to change the oil. Motor I think is fine but guess I’ll start a compression test as ground 0 and go from there. It’s like it has too much oil pressure and then has low pressure. Oil icon popped up after it died. No message just an icon. If the compression is good then what’s next? I know there’s more than just crank case breathers out there….there’s vacuum pumps with breathers. Moroso makes one and there’s more from other companies. Pumps the pressure out. Idk if that’s what I need but I just want to know what is the issue. I have an issue just what is it. Motor holding me back now .
On the pipe along with that red one. So I had the smooth one in the wrong spot and didn’t have one here with the red one. Coolant leak is fixed. I installed a breather and deleted the UPR stuff.
I actually like the way this looks. So then I started the car and all was good. I set out to finally do my brake pad bed in procedure. 60mph and brake to 5 mph, no complete stops…and each time press the pedal harder and harder. Car was running great. Datalog was all setup and connected to the car this time. But kept telling me this when I started the log
******* computers. Well I was already driving and I tried starting it right before I started my break in procedure so couldn’t bother with why it all of a sudden had issues.
I did all the 60-5mph. Trans was already quickly learning and shifted great I was happy. Engine felt good I wanted to say felt best so far after deleting UPR and adding the breather. I thought…I’ll do one more 60-5mph. I slam on my brakes and then start to give it half throttle again to speed back up….mid way through…sudden loss of power, I see a burst of flames simultaneously from the wastegates….something isn’t right. Car is still running but seems to be low power. 60 mph road ends and I make my turn (yield to 40 mph road) so I didn’t have to stop….brakes are cooling down…ok well I did it finally but that last acceleration something wasn’t right. Rotora break in procedure is 10 60-5 stops. It seemed like a lot …but that’s what I had to do.
I give the car some gas and it seems ok again. I’m just cruising at 50 (speeding 10 over)….road turns to 40…then 30….Im coming up on traffic. Someone wants to slow down and turn and I give it gas and it feels like it’s about to die….it died.
Tried to start it it cranked over more than ever and started weakly and died again. I call Stefanie and I have her come in my truck and bring my toe strap and grab my hitch and pin. I towed myself back to my house. An officer showed up bc someone thought a car had crashed??? Either way he was cool and blocked traffic for me so I could set it up in the street to tow myself. Made it home without a scratch on her. Pulled the winch out and pulled it into the garage.
I don’t know what’s going on. Apparently the partially kinked UPR hose wasn’t it bc here we are again except this time the engine stalled. And didn’t want to start back up. I’m impressed that I had the tools and means to tow myself and didn’t get a scratch on her. I’m also happy that all the work I did came out great and the minor things I messed up I fixed. It didn’t leak any coolant. I don’t know why it’s puking out oil out and I’m not even sure from where. Yes both VVT solenoid seems are wet but the spray patterns seem like source is somewhere else or multiple sources. Excessive oil pressure or crank case pressure? Matt my engine builder hasn’t responded to any messages last night or this am. Benefit of the doubt of course he must be busy or sure..these are off hours but. Idk what’s going on. The work Ben, Kevin, Nick, my cousin Owen and myself is all fantastic. The engine I have no idea the issue. Sensors are all new, motor is new. I used recommended oil, did and checked with when to change the oil. Motor I think is fine but guess I’ll start a compression test as ground 0 and go from there. It’s like it has too much oil pressure and then has low pressure. Oil icon popped up after it died. No message just an icon. If the compression is good then what’s next? I know there’s more than just crank case breathers out there….there’s vacuum pumps with breathers. Moroso makes one and there’s more from other companies. Pumps the pressure out. Idk if that’s what I need but I just want to know what is the issue. I have an issue just what is it. Motor holding me back now .
When I pulled the intake manifold the green gaskets had oil residue on them. The intake manifold had a drip of oil coming off the 3bar on the inside. Blowby? I’ve never seen oily gaskets …only thing you should see on the intake manifold is dry, nothingness and the coolant ports…is only where you see fluid. And not even on their gaskets unless as you pull it out some drips. I put 6 quarts of oil in but I have a twin turbo oil dry sump tank. That’ll take half a quart easy…oil fluid level was full not in excess. Im out of g I v e a S h. I t s at the moment. Engine oil crank case pressure or whatever is going on is my first experience. Crank case breather …DRY. 
The loss of power was like a tiny explosion and loss of powers. But WHY???????
The loss of power was like a tiny explosion and loss of powers. But WHY???????
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Maybe it chugs fuel, maybe my gas gauge isn’t right. Maybe I ran out of gas. It certainly would explain the loss of power, it seemed partially dramatic half throttle and 4,000 rpm but…then had power, then stumbled and had some and stumbled and died. Tried to start…started weak and died. Very well could be fuel. Would make sense if I’m getting less than 10 miles a gallon. I did hear lpfp alteration in its noise as it’s collecting fuel when I’d come to a stop and the fuel sloshes to the front. I dismissed it knowing I hadn’t really driven it and it’s been mostly idling. Well, if my gas gauge doesn’t work right then I know what getting low on fuel sounds like. I will add more gas to it today. Clean up the oil residue which overall isn’t a lot. If it’s crank case wouldn’t the case breather be saturated though? Maybe I add back the UPR stuff and keep the breather and together they are better than either one alone. Last time I had the oil but it never stumbled and died. So last night if it was fuel, it would have ran great the whole time but would still have had the oil splatter. Maybe I swap out the PVC canister ….maybe I got a bad one from ford
All of my oil splatter is in the red area. Nothing is really super saturated it’s splatter that’s small and large. Nothing on the oil cap, nothing on the IC pipe or TB. Nothing weeping out of the side of the valve cover. It’s VVT gaskets. Oil scavenger pump is over there but it remains dry and clean. No oil residue on any of its connections. With it all messy you can touch around all fittings and see your fingers are dry. Touch around the oil pump it’s dry. PVC hose to intake manifold looks dry inside so is the PVC clogged or what operates the PVC? Does it operate manually? 
OK - let me do a little therapy session for you. Take a deep breath 5 times, and lets go back to my server troubleshooting 101 thoughts. You are very excited and want to keep pushing forward the car however is pushing back...
when troubleshooting a complicated setup, start small and test. (BTW, I cant take my own advice so I hope you can for my sake) do one thing, test and see - then try something next.
UPR "could" be an issue - maybe a hose kink, maybe not... so take it out. You did and put in a breather.
Is it possible you have enough pressure you have an actual seal leak around the timing chain cover???
Next you did show a picture of the front of the engine... so its time to get a florescent tracer fluid and UV and well start trying to narrow it down. Have you had any good logs that Brad has reviewed? If not, pushing it to do brake seating/break in is pushing it too hard during a time of troubleshooting. Throw some crappy rotors and brake pads back on, then go back to the oil sourcing and blow by issues.
You had issues with coolant leaking, get that banged out first and by what you reported you have.
One thing and lots of deep breaths between. Slow the thinking down, I have hard times with that too.
when troubleshooting a complicated setup, start small and test. (BTW, I cant take my own advice so I hope you can for my sake) do one thing, test and see - then try something next.
UPR "could" be an issue - maybe a hose kink, maybe not... so take it out. You did and put in a breather.
Is it possible you have enough pressure you have an actual seal leak around the timing chain cover???
Next you did show a picture of the front of the engine... so its time to get a florescent tracer fluid and UV and well start trying to narrow it down. Have you had any good logs that Brad has reviewed? If not, pushing it to do brake seating/break in is pushing it too hard during a time of troubleshooting. Throw some crappy rotors and brake pads back on, then go back to the oil sourcing and blow by issues.
You had issues with coolant leaking, get that banged out first and by what you reported you have.
One thing and lots of deep breaths between. Slow the thinking down, I have hard times with that too.
I can appreciate that response. I’m holding it together just brain storming how and why.
I think I ran out of gas. Relying heavily on my cousins wiring skills. However there are 2 connections on the fuel sending unit. One thing I could try is disconnect and reconnect the opposite. There’s only 2 ways to hook it up. If it’s fuel and I don’t get the gauge working anytime soon. I learned what running out of fuel audibly sounds like. I dismissed the weird tones in the rear coming to stops wondering if it was tires skimming plastic flares. Dismissing fuel. Well, that’s fuel I bet, 100%. Strange tone as it struggled to collect low fuel sloshing to the front. The pump is directly touching the bottom so if it’s struggling it’s low low. Likewise I learn 2 things if so. The audible tone change of it collecting and how far I can get…I’d say I went about 8 miles or so. I learned a noise and learned a range.
The scavenger pump company recommended I plug the oil dry sump tank. To neutralize flow. I did supply pictures to them. It felt counter intuitive to plug it but wanted to follow their advice (first). But let’s agree that the oil dry sump is now part of my oil system. That scavenger pump is strong and with it plugged…perhaps it is causing too much vacuum within the oil system leading to blow by and increased pressure.
Now let’s talk UPR. My reservoir was empty when I started the car. Even if that hose which is 5/8 ID I learned….was kinked down to 3/8 or so…it was for sure working bc the oil lines from the UPR oil cap were oily and all of them were. The high pressure check valve installed correctly and I have no doubt is completely fine. The reservoir was half full and that’s a lot from just mostly idling. So let’s agree that it was helping, not hurting.
Crank case breather is only going to help even further. I find it strange it’s dry with this round of oil splatter so maybe I’m more into something with the oil return dry sump tank being plugged than the crank case breather but I will go ahead and say UPR and the crank case breather are better than either one alone. If they only help I say use them both.
Time to put gas in it, clean up the oil residue and vent the oil dry sump tank. Matt my engine builder got back to me and is calling me soon.
But you’re first paragraph you nailed it, my overly excited and also extremely frustrated and these minor issues seem huge. But when the storm calms I can think of ways to troubleshoot and so far the issues I’ve had and addressed and fixed were minor. Just all in conjunction make it harder.
Yes the coolant leak is no longer an issue. The trans is no longer a concern. The brake pad bed in…more or less done. It states it may need to be repeated 1-2 more times however it’s totally fine now to drive around normal and use them without worry. So add that to the list. Brakes are no longer an issue or concern with break-in.
My oil level is good. I did drain out a tiny bit thinking adding 6 quarts was wrong but also realizing again well no I have that oil dry sump tank so I have extra capacity. Oil level wasn’t too full and now it’s still full enough. But I did see no more metal sludge residue on the oil pan plug magnet. So an improvement there.
My issues seem huge then I fix them and realize they were minor. I think I’m still in that cycle.
I think I ran out of gas. Relying heavily on my cousins wiring skills. However there are 2 connections on the fuel sending unit. One thing I could try is disconnect and reconnect the opposite. There’s only 2 ways to hook it up. If it’s fuel and I don’t get the gauge working anytime soon. I learned what running out of fuel audibly sounds like. I dismissed the weird tones in the rear coming to stops wondering if it was tires skimming plastic flares. Dismissing fuel. Well, that’s fuel I bet, 100%. Strange tone as it struggled to collect low fuel sloshing to the front. The pump is directly touching the bottom so if it’s struggling it’s low low. Likewise I learn 2 things if so. The audible tone change of it collecting and how far I can get…I’d say I went about 8 miles or so. I learned a noise and learned a range.
The scavenger pump company recommended I plug the oil dry sump tank. To neutralize flow. I did supply pictures to them. It felt counter intuitive to plug it but wanted to follow their advice (first). But let’s agree that the oil dry sump is now part of my oil system. That scavenger pump is strong and with it plugged…perhaps it is causing too much vacuum within the oil system leading to blow by and increased pressure.
Now let’s talk UPR. My reservoir was empty when I started the car. Even if that hose which is 5/8 ID I learned….was kinked down to 3/8 or so…it was for sure working bc the oil lines from the UPR oil cap were oily and all of them were. The high pressure check valve installed correctly and I have no doubt is completely fine. The reservoir was half full and that’s a lot from just mostly idling. So let’s agree that it was helping, not hurting.
Crank case breather is only going to help even further. I find it strange it’s dry with this round of oil splatter so maybe I’m more into something with the oil return dry sump tank being plugged than the crank case breather but I will go ahead and say UPR and the crank case breather are better than either one alone. If they only help I say use them both.
Time to put gas in it, clean up the oil residue and vent the oil dry sump tank. Matt my engine builder got back to me and is calling me soon.
But you’re first paragraph you nailed it, my overly excited and also extremely frustrated and these minor issues seem huge. But when the storm calms I can think of ways to troubleshoot and so far the issues I’ve had and addressed and fixed were minor. Just all in conjunction make it harder.
Yes the coolant leak is no longer an issue. The trans is no longer a concern. The brake pad bed in…more or less done. It states it may need to be repeated 1-2 more times however it’s totally fine now to drive around normal and use them without worry. So add that to the list. Brakes are no longer an issue or concern with break-in.
My oil level is good. I did drain out a tiny bit thinking adding 6 quarts was wrong but also realizing again well no I have that oil dry sump tank so I have extra capacity. Oil level wasn’t too full and now it’s still full enough. But I did see no more metal sludge residue on the oil pan plug magnet. So an improvement there.
My issues seem huge then I fix them and realize they were minor. I think I’m still in that cycle.
BTW, your SCT tuner also needs firmware updates - to the the tuner app and make sure your Livewire - or other is updated
derivepower.freshdesk.com
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Update. Spoke with Matt Pohnan, Max Power Automotive.
When adding scavenger pumps, which are unavoidable when doing remote mounted turbos to get the oil back to the block, it always includes pumping air and oil back into the block. The turbos don’t use up a lot of oil and it’s likely pumping mostly air and some oil back in the engine and the engine doesn’t like the extra air.
He concludes I must have ran out of gas. My to do list.
Send him scavenger pump specs for his curiosity.
Add fuel
Clean oil residue
Add dye to the oil from a kit from the parts store
Take off oil cap and put a rubber glove over it
Start engine and if the glove fills up with air from just idling and waves at you, you have excessive crank case pressure
Look to see BOV is partially cracked or little flutters open and close during idle it should not be closed
Take for short drive and return and use black light to find where oil is coming from
Likely or more than likely need with a vacuum pump to pull the excessive air out and or a big boy dual pump with large tank and two filters pulling and venting to atmosphere the excessive air. He said we built the motor but didn’t know what you were doing with turbos. You had to do a scavenger pump and it is what it is but now we need to get that air out. It’s a race car now he said.
May need to do the big boy tank and remove valve covers and weld on -10AN bungs to the vacuum tank. Well, I got engine bay room for that! All is well, it’s just part of the game!
When adding scavenger pumps, which are unavoidable when doing remote mounted turbos to get the oil back to the block, it always includes pumping air and oil back into the block. The turbos don’t use up a lot of oil and it’s likely pumping mostly air and some oil back in the engine and the engine doesn’t like the extra air.
He concludes I must have ran out of gas. My to do list.
Send him scavenger pump specs for his curiosity.
Add fuel
Clean oil residue
Add dye to the oil from a kit from the parts store
Take off oil cap and put a rubber glove over it
Start engine and if the glove fills up with air from just idling and waves at you, you have excessive crank case pressure
Look to see BOV is partially cracked or little flutters open and close during idle it should not be closed
Take for short drive and return and use black light to find where oil is coming from
Likely or more than likely need with a vacuum pump to pull the excessive air out and or a big boy dual pump with large tank and two filters pulling and venting to atmosphere the excessive air. He said we built the motor but didn’t know what you were doing with turbos. You had to do a scavenger pump and it is what it is but now we need to get that air out. It’s a race car now he said.
May need to do the big boy tank and remove valve covers and weld on -10AN bungs to the vacuum tank. Well, I got engine bay room for that! All is well, it’s just part of the game!
Bronco2fan
SHO Member
Your patience is gonna pay off. You're right, it's a race car now.
Glad I got one of those items, boy learning more about custom engine building here. UPR was doing its job when hooked up catching all the oil blow by sounds like. We might need to wait till spring... you have our support. If you need any help updating the SCT let me know. Its not that hard.
Made a discovery. PVC valve is wrong mine has a heater and it wasn’t connected bc my valve didn’t have a female connector and I have codes for it 
10-12 model year thing? I think so and must have added a new PVC valve with canister to my parts list getting 13+ knuckles and stuff
10-12 model year thing? I think so and must have added a new PVC valve with canister to my parts list getting 13+ knuckles and stuff
get that tuner updated to the latest firmware to keep it stable .. 
Lucky you. Early production, before 11/30/09, used a heated PCV valve. Only costs 10X more than a normal PCV valve.
Exactly.
This little guy actually wasn’t an exact fit the top connector isn’t the same and he’s a little short even though it’s listed as what I need at local parts stores but to get the brown one with the connector I was told by Halloween….nope! I’m sure it’s the same just the connector is different so I cut my UPR hose and put a clamp on it. I’m good! $86 part nearly ruined a 60k+ build.
I added back the UPR stuff and rerouted the vacuum hose better no kinks. I left the breather on too. I cleaned up all the oil. And added the dye
This shit is a gimmick btw….all you need is the light and goggles. Bc I could see florescent oil and cotton particles of where I cleaned ….before I even put the dye in…
I cleared codes and added gas, car took a little bit to start bc I ran the rails dry. I then did the glove test and it didn’t fill it up at all. Ran the car for like 15-20 and looked for new leaks and nothing…took it for a cruise and looked again… nothing. Ran it for another 20-25 min and still no leaks….drove down the street and took these
It appears to be A ok!! No CEL just airbag light on. I’m so mentally and physically exhausted troubleshooting issues and at the end of the day it was me.
About 4 years…deleting a bunch of things so harnesses not connected partially normal…I couldn’t remember about the coolant gasket and I had a bag of 2 sets from having the phenolic spacer but in my bag I didn’t have that notched black round one. Edit, I did have that notched one but I somehow didn’t notice it was different than the other black smooth one. The fuel cell is new and I was sure my cousin wired up the gauge right but he did his best and well, it didn’t work so I ran out of gas and thought the engine was bad. Edit: I messed with the wires and it appears to give me a fuel reading and now that the tank was ran dry and filled back up instead of half it’s saying around 1/4. The fuel sending unit was already installed in the tank bc I installed everything on the fill plate. What if it just had air in it? I didn’t lower it into fuel, it filled up with fuel from under. I’ll find out if that needle budges, last time it stayed at half a tank. The PCV canister that was original was fine but I got on a kick replacing things and I think I ordered that along with other 13+ suspension parts under the inclination I owned a 2013….and I didn’t know the difference….and an extra harness along with 2 more on the same big harness not connected didn’t appear an issue. If everything was the same it would be easy to spot a harness not connected but not when you got 5 or more not connected you don’t notice a 6th.
So I installed the wrong coolant gasket, ran out of gas and bought the wrong PCV valve. Humbling. To top it off, how about just tonight I wanted to do a cruise log for Brad bc finally I think I’m good to go for real…and neither computer will recognize my SCT device. Fantastic. I’m ready for bed
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