802SHO 2010 Build
- Thread starter 802SHO
- Start date
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Yes this came through this am from Forscan tech support. Going to send back my link Ex for refund and get this ordered and on its way. 
FORScan support is very good. More companies should be like that.
I bought the Vlink FS usb adapter to have on hand. I am NOT going to program it right off the bat. My reasoning:
Kevin Quinlan assembled my transmission so I asked him if it’s necessary to update the body ID. He said it depends on who you ask. He’s done it both ways. He said it’s cheap for Ford to make them with wider tolerances and then program them to know instantly. Other kinds you can get for other makes and models are made with tight tolerances and programming isn’t required. He said it’ll learn on its own. Under normal circumstances it’s not ideal…likely the vehicle is all broken in and ready to go and you’d have to instruct someone to drive it like a granny for a period of time. You can just program it and it knows more or less. It affects the fill time of the solenoids. It could apply incorrect fill times but if you aren’t getting hard shifts he said it’ll learn and he wouldn’t be too worried about it.
My ecu and trans are tuned. I don’t think I have a stock file to flash back to. There may be great risk of bricking my ecu updating this driver module. Likely greater risk than just letting it relearn. I have time for it to relearn. If I was going racing tomorrow I’d want it programmed today. I have to drive it like a granny anyway to break in my motor.
It’s raining until Wednesday so I changed my alignment appt to Thurday at 4pm. I’m going to idle it and get trans temp over 100 degrees. Cycle through P, R, N, D, M and back up again waiting 5-10 seconds in each drive mode and do this 2-3 times. Then I’ll drive it gently to get aligned. Manually shifting. Low speed and low load. If it’s not bad at all I won’t program it and let it learn as I break in the motor.
FORscan v2.4 is unsupported and use at your own risk. I’ll program it Friday when I get the adapter ONLY if it’s engaging really harshly in every gear Thursday. This is my plan.
For anyone wondering I believe 10-12 have TRID block integrated into the ECU module firmware. That’s what mine has. This means you have to do a module firmware update to program a new body ID. To do that you need FORscan V2.4. Also 10-12 have a 13th metallic pin in the OBD2 port requiring an adapter giving 18 volts to that 13th pin for FEPS signal to work. Correct me if I’m wrong.
Kevin Quinlan assembled my transmission so I asked him if it’s necessary to update the body ID. He said it depends on who you ask. He’s done it both ways. He said it’s cheap for Ford to make them with wider tolerances and then program them to know instantly. Other kinds you can get for other makes and models are made with tight tolerances and programming isn’t required. He said it’ll learn on its own. Under normal circumstances it’s not ideal…likely the vehicle is all broken in and ready to go and you’d have to instruct someone to drive it like a granny for a period of time. You can just program it and it knows more or less. It affects the fill time of the solenoids. It could apply incorrect fill times but if you aren’t getting hard shifts he said it’ll learn and he wouldn’t be too worried about it.
My ecu and trans are tuned. I don’t think I have a stock file to flash back to. There may be great risk of bricking my ecu updating this driver module. Likely greater risk than just letting it relearn. I have time for it to relearn. If I was going racing tomorrow I’d want it programmed today. I have to drive it like a granny anyway to break in my motor.
It’s raining until Wednesday so I changed my alignment appt to Thurday at 4pm. I’m going to idle it and get trans temp over 100 degrees. Cycle through P, R, N, D, M and back up again waiting 5-10 seconds in each drive mode and do this 2-3 times. Then I’ll drive it gently to get aligned. Manually shifting. Low speed and low load. If it’s not bad at all I won’t program it and let it learn as I break in the motor.
FORscan v2.4 is unsupported and use at your own risk. I’ll program it Friday when I get the adapter ONLY if it’s engaging really harshly in every gear Thursday. This is my plan.
For anyone wondering I believe 10-12 have TRID block integrated into the ECU module firmware. That’s what mine has. This means you have to do a module firmware update to program a new body ID. To do that you need FORscan V2.4. Also 10-12 have a 13th metallic pin in the OBD2 port requiring an adapter giving 18 volts to that 13th pin for FEPS signal to work. Correct me if I’m wrong.
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Without the stock calibration I believe you are stuck with what you got. I believe the TRID update is rewriting the entire PCM, not just the TRID. That is why you got the message highlighted in the picture below and why I suggested returning to stock calibration before updating the TRID. Newer PCMs that do not use FEPS only update the TRID and don't write anything else to the PCM. FORSCan support may be able to confirm this.
Attachments
I don't know how far you want to go with this but, I can send you the BB4A-14D584-AC file. You would unzip it into FORScan calibrations folder.
Sure I’ll PM you
bpd1151
Lurking Around
Super cool to see all the support being lent to Andrew as it relates to all this programming/updating of the ECM, various tables/files etc.
An impressive group of folks here!
Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk
An impressive group of folks here!
Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk
First drive in the books!!! Adjustments need to be made to driver side outer tie rod (until alignment), e brake lever has no cable but droops and causes light to come on which I believe in 10-12 may cut power to RDU. Hood latch needs to be removed and bolt holes slotted to raise it up I think I’m 1/8” up from first headlight pod mounting bolt. Shift lever I think needs to be adjusted again to engage M mode better. Paddles didn’t work but also it partially electrically engaged and didn’t to illuminate current gear….im thinking it needs to be engaged more for paddles to work, on the shifter it feels like half in. Air suspension psi change with all the weight of all the parts need to adjust struts again at some point. Transmission shifted like absolute butter, id cross worrying about it off the list immediately however it was a low speed drive bc of my hood not latching, up to 40 mph. Before my voyage i added a Racebred air dam on my splitter and also ended up needing to cut my bumper for the wastage dumps…cut around them enough to where there’s a good 1” or so around hopefully we don’t melt anything when it starts shooting fire. Thought to maybe start off with harder dampeners in the struts, gave them all a 180 turn. Suspension felt smooth and tight. Feels like a new car. 
Andrew this is such great news - I always get the feeling the community here is giving birth collectively.
Thank you, right we are all THE FATHER!
Hahahaha
Zpak
Es Aich Oh!
You gotta post a publicly viewable link somewhere of this beast running. I have to hear this thing.
I sure will @Zpak but first I have to alleviate what I believe to be excessive crank case pressure. I took it out to bed in my brake pads and do a datalog. Actually decided to datalog the bed in procedure. 2 for 1 deal. Well I drove to my area and couldn’t start my log bc I didn’t connect the car (oops, it’s been a long time). I tried to then connect but it wasn’t working. I decided to drive passed my road I was going to use and pulled into a school parking lot to mess with the computer. Well don’t I smell burning oil. Pop the hood I have oil splattered in weird places. I remained calm, put the hood back down and B lined it straight home to my garage and lift. Couldn’t do the brakes or datalog. I get home and I’m thinking ok…uh scavenger pump? Rear oil feed plug? An oil line or fitting? Turns out…none of the above. How about just oil seeping passed seals all over 
At first I was seeing what I thought must be VVT seal but the oil on other places made 0 sense until I cleaned my way to finding other spots and you know what? What causes oil to leak from the valve cover gasket seals? Excessive crank case pressure I’d say. G….I wonder what might be causing that UPR???? This F*^*%%cling valve cover breather plug supplied by UPR
I’d say I’m getting hot. This was never an issue for me when I installed their dual valve catch can back in 2018…but here we are, the motor is modified and I don’t think this plug should be here. Went 10 miles or so round trip so I don’t think there’s any real damage to seals I think I alleviate this pressure and all is good.
But then…..I don’t get it. So the intake manifold coolant pipe seal. It leaked right off the bat before. I redid it, good to go. After the long idles, after the short and moderate drive all good….im under the car searching for oil leaks, cleaning as I go. I look for coolant just bc….all good. I take a break and then 10-15 min later to out to look at the oil spots and I see an active puddle dripping on the ground of coolant. Like r u ******* I n g kidding me? Awesome. Throw my oil drain under it and go watch a show. What else can you do but laugh and have a drink and walk away. So anyway, idk if that’s related to excessive pressure but sure, why not, I’ll redo it again just for S H I TS and giggles. Bc I own a Ford lol it’s part of the deal I guess. I got a sweet set of tools bc of it and a lift! I’m a lifer not even 20 miles …sheesh
At first I was seeing what I thought must be VVT seal but the oil on other places made 0 sense until I cleaned my way to finding other spots and you know what? What causes oil to leak from the valve cover gasket seals? Excessive crank case pressure I’d say. G….I wonder what might be causing that UPR???? This F*^*%%cling valve cover breather plug supplied by UPR
I’d say I’m getting hot. This was never an issue for me when I installed their dual valve catch can back in 2018…but here we are, the motor is modified and I don’t think this plug should be here. Went 10 miles or so round trip so I don’t think there’s any real damage to seals I think I alleviate this pressure and all is good.
But then…..I don’t get it. So the intake manifold coolant pipe seal. It leaked right off the bat before. I redid it, good to go. After the long idles, after the short and moderate drive all good….im under the car searching for oil leaks, cleaning as I go. I look for coolant just bc….all good. I take a break and then 10-15 min later to out to look at the oil spots and I see an active puddle dripping on the ground of coolant. Like r u ******* I n g kidding me? Awesome. Throw my oil drain under it and go watch a show. What else can you do but laugh and have a drink and walk away. So anyway, idk if that’s related to excessive pressure but sure, why not, I’ll redo it again just for S H I TS and giggles. Bc I own a Ford lol it’s part of the deal I guess. I got a sweet set of tools bc of it and a lift! I’m a lifer not even 20 miles …sheesh
The PVC is new from Ford. Any ideas or does my diagnosis of excessive crank case pressure make sense for the multiple seal leaks? I don’t think it’s a coincidence the vent is also plugged….more like the cause. Until I hear from my engine builder on what his opinion is, I’ll add a breather and new seal for that pipe. I can say one thing. Next time it goes out after passing an idle test with no leaks….im bedding in the brakes regardless. I don’t need to add more driving with no brake break-in and partially ruin perhaps my $7k + brakes from improper bedding. The frustration is huge but the overall issues are minor. Sharing the good, the bad and the ugly. This type of stuff is not uncommon. Even EMS (Engineered Motorsports Solutions) with their crazy EcoBoost Mustang build, recently changed to a compound turbo setup and running on straight meth for fuel and MoTeC, had been dumping meth right out of the exhaust. They fixed that, then they blew apart the torque converter that was built…..it’s part of the game of pushing forward. Nice to have it all perfect right off the bat but it is what it is.
Wondering if it’s catch can related. Leaks are near hose attachments. Kit was T’ed at the oil cap to go to cold air reference over where intake supposed to be. That UPR oil cap is vented why the vent is plugged….but I rerouted that T line back to the left instead of the right and maybe it’s kinked….so under load from the engine it caused excessive crank case pressure. Next up is buy vent filter….coolant seal….and go home and pull the UPR reservoir and hoses and inspect for excessive oil….tracing steps back to “what’s different from last time” and that hose rerouted is. It’s likely kinked and that would make sense. I’m a mile a min here. Any insight appreciate as I troubleshoot my own theories in the interim
Zpak
Es Aich Oh!
If pressure is the issue I could see the UPR hoses springing a leak. They’re just pushed on to a hose barb at all the fittings with no clamp.
I just recently changed my set up. Ditched their oil cap that sucks miserably and went back to stock. Then, hooked the line that went to the UPR oil cap to the capped PCV port. Which always made much more sense to me anyway.
I just recently changed my set up. Ditched their oil cap that sucks miserably and went back to stock. Then, hooked the line that went to the UPR oil cap to the capped PCV port. Which always made much more sense to me anyway.
Hmmm right now I may just delete it temporarily. The hose did have a kink in it, the ID is 3/8 I believe and let’s say it was probably 1/8 ID kinked. 
Now I’m having second thoughts on that smooth round gasket for the intake manifold I used. Which of these goes where? The one on the right would match the same seal design as every single other gasket …which leads me to believe this round one on the right goes on the manifold itself where does the smooth one go? Inside the pipe ******??? Which I don’t have anything installed on it now
The taper on the smooth one on the left would make sense if it sat at the opening of the ******, just inside the pipe??
Now I’m having second thoughts on that smooth round gasket for the intake manifold I used. Which of these goes where? The one on the right would match the same seal design as every single other gasket …which leads me to believe this round one on the right goes on the manifold itself where does the smooth one go? Inside the pipe ******??? Which I don’t have anything installed on it now
The taper on the smooth one on the left would make sense if it sat at the opening of the ******, just inside the pipe??
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