They go over the RDU and idk I hope it doesn’t but if it was a low rider it should
802SHO 2010 Build
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FiveLeeter918
Ortiz Performance Sales
Bronco2fan
SHO Member
Have you aired it up yet? I'd hate to have to find the leak. That looks like it took a lot of time and patience to install. Awesome job to you and your nephew.
Not quite ready to test. I’m expecting maybe a leak but I don’t think it will. But a leak means I sided with caution and didn’t over tighten, so my long game was choosing to need to tighten than finding I over tightened something and ruined it.
Edit: All of the push to connect fittings should be fine, if they’re not it would be a manufacturing defect as there isn’t anything else I can do except push a line in. So the only spots that would be leaking that could be caused by me are like 7 spots. If the tank air holds it’s definitely not leaking, but I’ll spray my fittings that are threaded with some soapy water to check.
Last edited:
In tank fuel bucket swap 2010 to 2013+. Something I wanted to take care of before setting and forgetting my new back seat delete with AirLift management panel.
2010 OEM in-tank fuel bucket with DW300C LPFP : Note the top closed off vent
2013+ OEM in-tank fuel bucket modified to accept the Walbro 525 LPFP :Note the open vent now blocked off.
Side by side 2013+ left to 2010 right
Right off the bat, I was not expecting to see the open vent change on the 2013+.
Clearly that plugs into something, however on my 2010 there’s nothing to plug it into. Both the 2010 and 2013+ have an inside snout, just the 2010 is closed off and basically returns back inside where the 2013+ attaches to something else. Since the 2010 is a return loop I’m not sure what it needs to do, essentially it is blocked off so I just went ahead and blocked off the 2013+ with a fuel line cap. This should be fine???
Max Power Automotive installed the Walbro 525 LPFP in the 2013+. With the advice of a fueling professional (to prevent fuel starvation) he installed the filter on the outside of the bucket.
Originally I had sent him a new 2010 unit but he said it wouldn’t work, now if you go back up and look at the differences from the 2013+ and 2010, you can see the 2010 is much smaller and must be why it’s a matter of physical space. So I rolled the dice and hoped the 2013+ would still work, simply plug in and it does except the different top vent. Anyone know why this might be an issue for me to cap it, seeing as how the 2010 didn’t vent outside to begin with?
I drained the remnants of my 2 year old fuel before putting it in. I got about 3 gallons out.
Lots of filling and emptying but my little vac worked great! Now it’s in and will need to add some fresh fuel when first start up is around the corner. I don’t know if it matters per say, but I’ll put 5 gallons in and let it marinate for a day or two before I actually start the new motor.
Also realized I don’t have a good set of lug nuts now for my new wheel spacers. My last set of wheel spacers actually converted my studs to M14, now I’m back to 1/2x20 and my stock lugs are too thick at the base to seat properly in my new wheels. I don’t want to rub the paint off the inside even though you’ll never see it. I kind of wanted spiked lug nuts and found some about 3” long, mostly what I found was 4.4” long…..anyway the set I ordered are actually M12 so they don’t fit. I got confused and it read 20x1/2. But they weren’t 1/2x20. So I found the XL dorman lug nuts with the interchangeable color caps that I have in M14, in 1/2x20 but they are stupid pricey imho. Must be 1/2x20 isn’t common for them. I found them in only pairs of 4 for $19.99. And the seller put a limit of 4 sets…that’s only 16!!!!! Usually a set of 24 M14 are only $70. So here I go and buy 5 sets of 4 for just over $100 with tax. I had to get my GF to order the last set of 4. Kind of glad bc not sure I would really like all the spikes. What they look like except they will be black with maybe just a black color cap
I have been staring at my Cleco pins holding my fender flares on and I kind of like it lmfao!
So I am going to use these spiked hardware for motorcycles haha! I think it’ll look sick
Other than running wires for the AirLift management through my firewall, I also bought an AirLift controller mount, specifically for an Audi R8. It’s basically just a side bracket and I’ll mount it to the right of the center console. Funny, Bag Riders must think I have an R8 LOL.
I looked into having some professionals install some vinyl to my panel and do my stickers. If it’s reasonable I’ll just pay for
It to be perfect? Is what I was thinking but….lol! I reached out to a place called Yipes Stripes. The panel is basically flat, I mean, it’s beginner $h-it. They quoted me 3 hours of labor at like $90/hr, also $150 for 50” x 50” matte metallic dark gray, and $105/hr @.5 hours to install supplied graphics. Now the graphics for $50 sounds reasonable but $400 for laying down vinyl on a flat panel essentially??? Wtf???? I bought a 4ft x 5 ft roll of matte metallic dark gray vinyl from Vvivid Vinyl from Canada, should be here in a day or two and that was $60 with shipping. I’ll just install myself…..but wow!! I’m sorry but ya’ll vinyl layers (professional sticker appliers) are smoking
I may need to get a custom set of wheel spacers made, my 2” might not cut it. Think I may want 2.25” or 2.5”. We’ll
Find out. It’s only like 1.5” side clearance from the strut. Ultimately I don’t care how close it is as long as it doesn’t rub but…idk lol.
2010 OEM in-tank fuel bucket with DW300C LPFP : Note the top closed off vent
2013+ OEM in-tank fuel bucket modified to accept the Walbro 525 LPFP :Note the open vent now blocked off.
Side by side 2013+ left to 2010 right
Right off the bat, I was not expecting to see the open vent change on the 2013+.
Clearly that plugs into something, however on my 2010 there’s nothing to plug it into. Both the 2010 and 2013+ have an inside snout, just the 2010 is closed off and basically returns back inside where the 2013+ attaches to something else. Since the 2010 is a return loop I’m not sure what it needs to do, essentially it is blocked off so I just went ahead and blocked off the 2013+ with a fuel line cap. This should be fine???
Max Power Automotive installed the Walbro 525 LPFP in the 2013+. With the advice of a fueling professional (to prevent fuel starvation) he installed the filter on the outside of the bucket.
Originally I had sent him a new 2010 unit but he said it wouldn’t work, now if you go back up and look at the differences from the 2013+ and 2010, you can see the 2010 is much smaller and must be why it’s a matter of physical space. So I rolled the dice and hoped the 2013+ would still work, simply plug in and it does except the different top vent. Anyone know why this might be an issue for me to cap it, seeing as how the 2010 didn’t vent outside to begin with?
I drained the remnants of my 2 year old fuel before putting it in. I got about 3 gallons out.
Lots of filling and emptying but my little vac worked great! Now it’s in and will need to add some fresh fuel when first start up is around the corner. I don’t know if it matters per say, but I’ll put 5 gallons in and let it marinate for a day or two before I actually start the new motor.
Also realized I don’t have a good set of lug nuts now for my new wheel spacers. My last set of wheel spacers actually converted my studs to M14, now I’m back to 1/2x20 and my stock lugs are too thick at the base to seat properly in my new wheels. I don’t want to rub the paint off the inside even though you’ll never see it. I kind of wanted spiked lug nuts and found some about 3” long, mostly what I found was 4.4” long…..anyway the set I ordered are actually M12 so they don’t fit. I got confused and it read 20x1/2. But they weren’t 1/2x20. So I found the XL dorman lug nuts with the interchangeable color caps that I have in M14, in 1/2x20 but they are stupid pricey imho. Must be 1/2x20 isn’t common for them. I found them in only pairs of 4 for $19.99. And the seller put a limit of 4 sets…that’s only 16!!!!! Usually a set of 24 M14 are only $70. So here I go and buy 5 sets of 4 for just over $100 with tax. I had to get my GF to order the last set of 4. Kind of glad bc not sure I would really like all the spikes. What they look like except they will be black with maybe just a black color cap
I have been staring at my Cleco pins holding my fender flares on and I kind of like it lmfao!
So I am going to use these spiked hardware for motorcycles haha! I think it’ll look sick
Other than running wires for the AirLift management through my firewall, I also bought an AirLift controller mount, specifically for an Audi R8. It’s basically just a side bracket and I’ll mount it to the right of the center console. Funny, Bag Riders must think I have an R8 LOL.
I looked into having some professionals install some vinyl to my panel and do my stickers. If it’s reasonable I’ll just pay for
It to be perfect? Is what I was thinking but….lol! I reached out to a place called Yipes Stripes. The panel is basically flat, I mean, it’s beginner $h-it. They quoted me 3 hours of labor at like $90/hr, also $150 for 50” x 50” matte metallic dark gray, and $105/hr @.5 hours to install supplied graphics. Now the graphics for $50 sounds reasonable but $400 for laying down vinyl on a flat panel essentially??? Wtf???? I bought a 4ft x 5 ft roll of matte metallic dark gray vinyl from Vvivid Vinyl from Canada, should be here in a day or two and that was $60 with shipping. I’ll just install myself…..but wow!! I’m sorry but ya’ll vinyl layers (professional sticker appliers) are smoking
I may need to get a custom set of wheel spacers made, my 2” might not cut it. Think I may want 2.25” or 2.5”. We’ll
Find out. It’s only like 1.5” side clearance from the strut. Ultimately I don’t care how close it is as long as it doesn’t rub but…idk lol.
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
Everything looks great dude. What is going on with the turbo placement and since you are are going full big dick build....have you thought of just going big single? Twins are cool, but double the problems.....
Doing my twin Garrett’s supposed to be starting on them end of the month with Ben Ashline, fabrication team leader for VSC.
luigisho
SHO Member
Subaru people?
Essentially yes.
Update from Ben Ashline. He is pushing it out a little bit to like the first or second week of October to start the turbos. He said they wrecked two cars at a Rally and need them fixed ASAP. One needs to be ready for paint Monday ….
I thought it was a crack pipe! For the vinyl graphics guys wanting $460 to wrap my back seat delete panel and apply two stickers. I was just looking for a quote to wrap my panel but I think they quoted me for wrapping the panel and buying them an 8 ball of coke
Ordered custom 2.5” wheel spacers. These will be a direct fit for my wheels. No vibration. Made in America. Cut from solid Billet aluminum with 10.9 studs. Since these are big spacers I’d prefer to know they will not break and fall off. $516 including shipping. At this point I’m not going to go…screw it and have one thing on my car I don’t really like. I should have a tiny tire poke now outside of the flare. Extra side clearance from the strut, tight fit, securely made, and the look I’m going for….Wide to wider.
ChrisxHowe
New Member
If you still run into any clearance issues with your strut you can swap out your double bellow bag for a slim double bellow, that’s what I run on my flex with no spacers
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My wheel offset of +45mm is the main problem. Plus a 315 wide tire. Good to know about a different bag. The bag seems fine for now. I need spacers anyway for the flares.
Last night I got the fill valve and relief valve connected. I’ll convert that to a hard line later. I’m going to actually cut the harness and turn it into a plug and play for the manifold and compressor connections, so I can keep the seat delete panel portion nearly untouched if I need to temporarily take it out/put back in. Also want to apply the vinyl and stickers. That last 5% is all cosmetic and practical use………essentially it’s ready for a test now. Just need to put the panel back in, connect the wires, harness and run the plastic lines from trunk to back of seat delete and I can hook it right up to my battery.
I’ll probably try to test it tonight or at least definitely over the weekend. My new lug nuts arrive today. Mostly what I’m looking for in the test is leaks, also strut adjustment, like does it air down too low, is it low enough? Stuff like that I can figure out stationary in the garage. But once it all checks out and I’m
Pleased, by then I should have my new spacers and will actually roll it outside, put my headlights, bumper, splitter and flares on. And we will all get a true glimpse of what’s to come…myself included. That’s really when I want to reveal it. Pictures next to it still in the garage don’t really show you how good it looks, need like a full body front, side and rear out in the driveway.
So I can test this weekend, maybe won’t be until next weekend I have it together outside for a photo shoot. Lol
Last night I did the first test. First thing I did was forgot to put the tank line on from the compressor to the manifold so it was just blowing out of the tank as the compressor filled it lol! I took that hard line off so I could flex or compress the seat delete panel inward to get it in the car. And forgot to put it back on.
Second thing was one hard line was audibly leaking to a bulkhead so we emptied the system and bent it in a more favorable position to seat properly. Then audibly you couldn’t hear anything, but could see bags would very very slowly…really slowly lose a psi every min or so. Started the soapy water spray bottle on all the threaded fittings. Some with another 1/4 turn were fine, there was one however that we ended up tightening to a level of concern, and stopped, decided to start reading some (directions) which were included. Hahah! Why is we we try to do so much without any help, then look for help only if we have a problem….when we would probably have no issues if we just read them BEFOREHAND!!
So the wicked wicked slow leaks are at my Teflon taped threads, and hard line to bulkhead connections. All of the plastic lines do not leak in any of the push to connects and also any threads supplied that already had a thread sealant are also not leaking. So what is the issue? After reading the directions (very humbling) it’s recommended to triple wrap threads with Teflon and under some applications even 7 layers of Teflon. I only covered the threads with a single layer with a tiny portion overlapping. So I will unthread all of my Teflon wrapped threads and rewrap them with 3 layers of Teflon tape. I think that will do the trick for those ones. On the hard line connections, they weren’t too bad but we did not deburr the ends at all….that HAS to be the issue. They don’t have big chunks or anything but since we are going for air tight, tiny debris not allowing a perfect seal is the problem. I’ll be picking up a deburring tool as we speak.
Other than that, the compressor wasn’t that loud. Let me explain, it was sort of loud, loud as in it is a noise, but for a compressor, it was quiet, if that makes sense? And we went to about 140 psi in the system/tank and 65-66 psi in each bag, all the air sounds adding or taking air out of them was surprisingly music to my ears………so far I can assure you that it’s beyond what you imagine for being cool……like I assumed it was cool…..but first hand experience it seems A LOT cooler than I expected. Idk how I’ll ever want to NOT have air suspension lol! Like getting a tune for your SHO…you’re immediate thought is….why did I wait so long…..same feeling for me with the air suspension.
I didn’t take it off jack stands, no point in taking it off if the system can’t self sustain (leak). As soon as it’s stable with no leaks it’ll get put on the ground.
Ben Ashline from VSC invited me to check out their facility as they were doing a cars and coffee this am. I’m beyond impressed. Their facility is state of the art, can only guess how many millions of dollars to build that place. I only saw a tiny portion of it. I’m even more impressed seeing it in person and even more excited to have Ben and Nick Ashline working on my Taurus.
And they also had Travis’ Gymkhana car outside. Everything looks more impressive in person.
This rear bumper opening with that STI radiator or whatever cooler that is….it’s actually like 2-3ft deep, it looks flat in the picture but it’s very “active”. The active aero on this car is how it’s able to steer/fly in the air and not crash
Second thing was one hard line was audibly leaking to a bulkhead so we emptied the system and bent it in a more favorable position to seat properly. Then audibly you couldn’t hear anything, but could see bags would very very slowly…really slowly lose a psi every min or so. Started the soapy water spray bottle on all the threaded fittings. Some with another 1/4 turn were fine, there was one however that we ended up tightening to a level of concern, and stopped, decided to start reading some (directions) which were included. Hahah! Why is we we try to do so much without any help, then look for help only if we have a problem….when we would probably have no issues if we just read them BEFOREHAND!!
So the wicked wicked slow leaks are at my Teflon taped threads, and hard line to bulkhead connections. All of the plastic lines do not leak in any of the push to connects and also any threads supplied that already had a thread sealant are also not leaking. So what is the issue? After reading the directions (very humbling) it’s recommended to triple wrap threads with Teflon and under some applications even 7 layers of Teflon. I only covered the threads with a single layer with a tiny portion overlapping. So I will unthread all of my Teflon wrapped threads and rewrap them with 3 layers of Teflon tape. I think that will do the trick for those ones. On the hard line connections, they weren’t too bad but we did not deburr the ends at all….that HAS to be the issue. They don’t have big chunks or anything but since we are going for air tight, tiny debris not allowing a perfect seal is the problem. I’ll be picking up a deburring tool as we speak.
Other than that, the compressor wasn’t that loud. Let me explain, it was sort of loud, loud as in it is a noise, but for a compressor, it was quiet, if that makes sense? And we went to about 140 psi in the system/tank and 65-66 psi in each bag, all the air sounds adding or taking air out of them was surprisingly music to my ears………so far I can assure you that it’s beyond what you imagine for being cool……like I assumed it was cool…..but first hand experience it seems A LOT cooler than I expected. Idk how I’ll ever want to NOT have air suspension lol! Like getting a tune for your SHO…you’re immediate thought is….why did I wait so long…..same feeling for me with the air suspension.
I didn’t take it off jack stands, no point in taking it off if the system can’t self sustain (leak). As soon as it’s stable with no leaks it’ll get put on the ground.
Ben Ashline from VSC invited me to check out their facility as they were doing a cars and coffee this am. I’m beyond impressed. Their facility is state of the art, can only guess how many millions of dollars to build that place. I only saw a tiny portion of it. I’m even more impressed seeing it in person and even more excited to have Ben and Nick Ashline working on my Taurus.
And they also had Travis’ Gymkhana car outside. Everything looks more impressive in person.
This rear bumper opening with that STI radiator or whatever cooler that is….it’s actually like 2-3ft deep, it looks flat in the picture but it’s very “active”. The active aero on this car is how it’s able to steer/fly in the air and not crash
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