Zpak
Es Aich Oh!
Exactly, good ol’ shift kits make them slam but it’s actually easier on the transmission than gently shifting.
802SHO 2010 Build
- Thread starter 802SHO
- Start date
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That’s what I keep reading. It’s actually better for the transmission bc it’s eliminating the strategy to slip the clutches for a smooth feeling and slipping the clutches creates heat and wear. Who would have guessed those harsh (feeling) shifts were better for it’s longevity and durability. I guess because the feeling is counterintuitive.
From Brad:
Andrew,
Got to get to bed so we can talk about the changes but everything in your texts and emails I addressed. I think you should feel some changes. But as you drive I think it won't learn things until it sees those things. Like I mean it won't learn WOT shifts unless it sees them. Kinda like how you mentioned before.
And I was looking through the tune and see a change for tires and the switch to allow me to change your tire size. I changed that way before on your old tune but I think you are running new tires since then. So, is your speedo correct to about 1 mph error at 70mph? If not we need that to be basically spot on. If it's not I can change it in the tune or you should be able to do it in the end user options when you flash the tune and change the revs per mile. Just something to rule out since we are messing with shifts.
Drive this and let it learn some and tell me how it feels. Torque reductions in the trans are eliminated now among other things.
Brad F
-Torque management disabled
-Predictive logic disabled
-full throttle (ride the spike)
-Line pressure +
-faster clutch engagement
Michelin Pilot Sport 4S per manufacturer specs are 764 rev/mile. I’ll change that on my end in user functions before the flash.
The ECU’s conservative strategy has no place in a race car. The only way to unlock the potential while still operating within the OEM ECU is to disable its calculations and safety parameters. The new custom tune is now its only truth. With its memory erased it should only be ready and willing for one thing: WAR. Revision 57 Let’s GO! Hoorah!
Andrew,
Got to get to bed so we can talk about the changes but everything in your texts and emails I addressed. I think you should feel some changes. But as you drive I think it won't learn things until it sees those things. Like I mean it won't learn WOT shifts unless it sees them. Kinda like how you mentioned before.
And I was looking through the tune and see a change for tires and the switch to allow me to change your tire size. I changed that way before on your old tune but I think you are running new tires since then. So, is your speedo correct to about 1 mph error at 70mph? If not we need that to be basically spot on. If it's not I can change it in the tune or you should be able to do it in the end user options when you flash the tune and change the revs per mile. Just something to rule out since we are messing with shifts.
Drive this and let it learn some and tell me how it feels. Torque reductions in the trans are eliminated now among other things.
Brad F
-Torque management disabled
-Predictive logic disabled
-full throttle (ride the spike)
-Line pressure +
-faster clutch engagement
Michelin Pilot Sport 4S per manufacturer specs are 764 rev/mile. I’ll change that on my end in user functions before the flash.
The ECU’s conservative strategy has no place in a race car. The only way to unlock the potential while still operating within the OEM ECU is to disable its calculations and safety parameters. The new custom tune is now its only truth. With its memory erased it should only be ready and willing for one thing: WAR. Revision 57 Let’s GO! Hoorah!
have fun!
IMO, you want to take the temp before the cooler, before the thermal bypass valve (unless you eliminated that). You want to know how well the transmission is handling the cooled fluid.
bpd1151
Lurking Around
Yes, that square box is the "thermal bypass valve".
I know my builder is planning on eliminating mine.
Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk
I know my builder is planning on eliminating mine.
Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk
It’s not a bad thing. Let’s it warm up faster and then when it reaches 160 or whatever it opens to flow through the cooler.
So I’m not monitoring trans internal temp.
That’s is inside the trans and fully operational. For whatever reason it’s not in my new config file, so I haven’t been seeing it. I’m going to add it back.
But basically the temp I’m seeing after the cooler is basically ambient or +15. This is actually great bc it means the trans temp hasn’t reached 160. I’ve never had the trans hot enough to flow through the cooler is essentially what’s going on. So nothing to worry about it. 180 is great. Over 200 is common so if I’ve never seen it open…I’m good.
I just need to add it back to the config file to see the real temp.
Yeah the trans temp I added back in my config and the hottest it got was just under 150 degrees so hasn’t cracked open the thermostat yet which is perfect. My gauge red 99. So ambient plus radiant heat from the radiator. I’m not sure how to tie into the internal trans temp sensor bc would make way more sense to have my gauge connected to that one lmfao
I changed the rev/mile to 764 for the Michelin tires and my Speedo was off about 10 mph. Idk if it got wonky bc I changed the tune settings before flashing but that would mean the stock value is like 955 or some shit. Which would make sense the car didn’t want to shift into second bc it didn’t think it was going fast enough. However it’s been seemingly accurate before this.
At any rate Brad will change it to 764 for the next revision. Bc the speedo was off I didn’t push it. I drove it about 25 min and parked it. Waiting for the next revision and to verify speedo is correct. If this is the major fix ….wow how crazy simple and scary also it could have been so far off.
I changed the rev/mile to 764 for the Michelin tires and my Speedo was off about 10 mph. Idk if it got wonky bc I changed the tune settings before flashing but that would mean the stock value is like 955 or some shit. Which would make sense the car didn’t want to shift into second bc it didn’t think it was going fast enough. However it’s been seemingly accurate before this.
At any rate Brad will change it to 764 for the next revision. Bc the speedo was off I didn’t push it. I drove it about 25 min and parked it. Waiting for the next revision and to verify speedo is correct. If this is the major fix ….wow how crazy simple and scary also it could have been so far off.
Pics for attention. 
I loaded up Rev58 and took it out for close to an hour. It was “learning”. I was actively monitoring it. Noticed without trying OAR gets reset pretty quickly so no need to manipulate it. In Drive, it shifts into high gears at low speeds itself and gets it reset even faster it seemed.
Glad I added back trans temp. Trans was around 150 and seems to hover there. I think I’m going to need another alignment now that my rear subframe is bolted down. I’ve been trying to fix it myself and under power it’s wanting to pull this way and that way. It doesn’t help the roads are smooth but not flat and the wide stance seems to make it pull whatever way the road angle is.
I was in the middle of a WOT pull and it hit a wall. Sudden loss of power like a jolt. Wrench light came on. It was immediately evident it was in a limp mode. The gear I was in should have been 6th but the rpm looked like 5th and changing to M it was saying 6th….the gearing was out of sync. The car ran almost like it was misfiring. I immediately started a data log. My oil pressure didn’t flinch and was still excellent so that was comforting. Why is it mad? It felt like a coupler blew off.
I was so close to home and drove it home. Parked and turned it off. Saved the data log. Opened my hood. That “jolt” sent blow by out of my left side valve cover -10AN hose and puked some oil out of the breather filter on the catch tank. Misted oil on my oil pressure regulator, negative battery terminal, and my driver side hood vent. Not a lot of oil but I’ve been seeing this to a smaller degree on all the missed shifts where it bounces off the limiter. The VTA PCV with -10AN for each valve cover and catch tanks with 50mm breather filters is an excellent high performance setup but it’s not suitable for high pressure. Which is what those WOT missed shift and that jolt of losing power WOT. Other than these events I never see any oil misting. It’s very specific to these events.
I checked for codes and got this gnarly one. P061B. It’s a torque calculation error code in the TCM. Car was seeing different values that didn’t make sense and it went into limp mode to protect itself. I sent Brad the log, the code and a video of how it sounded. I cleared the codes and started it. All seemed back to normal. I put it up on my lift and everything checked out.
From Brad:
Andrew,
Will email later. There is one thing I changed in the VID block for making sure the revs per mile was a bit higher than the 764 we needed. I normally don't change anything in the VID block but even that shouldn't have done anything like you described. I changed nothing with torque calculations or anything like that. Just some shift parameters. But I'm suspect of the item in the VID block. I didn't want to mess with that but I wanted to make sure there were no value in the ECU anywhere that might clip the revs per mile or be lower than what we need.
See if this drives ok. It's essentially the same as rev. 58.
I didn’t get a chance to try out Rev59 bc it started raining after I had it on the lift and it certainly wasn’t supposed to rain. So will try this today. In the back of my head though I really can’t believe this is a TCM issue. All the things I’ve done and I’m fighting with the TCM computer. Seems so unusual. So I took a look and I have easy access to my transmission cover. Hey, maybe I should replace the valve body and solenoid assembly and try again……I may do that if this goes on for another week or so.
I loaded up Rev58 and took it out for close to an hour. It was “learning”. I was actively monitoring it. Noticed without trying OAR gets reset pretty quickly so no need to manipulate it. In Drive, it shifts into high gears at low speeds itself and gets it reset even faster it seemed.
Glad I added back trans temp. Trans was around 150 and seems to hover there. I think I’m going to need another alignment now that my rear subframe is bolted down. I’ve been trying to fix it myself and under power it’s wanting to pull this way and that way. It doesn’t help the roads are smooth but not flat and the wide stance seems to make it pull whatever way the road angle is.
I was in the middle of a WOT pull and it hit a wall. Sudden loss of power like a jolt. Wrench light came on. It was immediately evident it was in a limp mode. The gear I was in should have been 6th but the rpm looked like 5th and changing to M it was saying 6th….the gearing was out of sync. The car ran almost like it was misfiring. I immediately started a data log. My oil pressure didn’t flinch and was still excellent so that was comforting. Why is it mad? It felt like a coupler blew off.
I was so close to home and drove it home. Parked and turned it off. Saved the data log. Opened my hood. That “jolt” sent blow by out of my left side valve cover -10AN hose and puked some oil out of the breather filter on the catch tank. Misted oil on my oil pressure regulator, negative battery terminal, and my driver side hood vent. Not a lot of oil but I’ve been seeing this to a smaller degree on all the missed shifts where it bounces off the limiter. The VTA PCV with -10AN for each valve cover and catch tanks with 50mm breather filters is an excellent high performance setup but it’s not suitable for high pressure. Which is what those WOT missed shift and that jolt of losing power WOT. Other than these events I never see any oil misting. It’s very specific to these events.
I checked for codes and got this gnarly one. P061B. It’s a torque calculation error code in the TCM. Car was seeing different values that didn’t make sense and it went into limp mode to protect itself. I sent Brad the log, the code and a video of how it sounded. I cleared the codes and started it. All seemed back to normal. I put it up on my lift and everything checked out.
From Brad:
Andrew,
Will email later. There is one thing I changed in the VID block for making sure the revs per mile was a bit higher than the 764 we needed. I normally don't change anything in the VID block but even that shouldn't have done anything like you described. I changed nothing with torque calculations or anything like that. Just some shift parameters. But I'm suspect of the item in the VID block. I didn't want to mess with that but I wanted to make sure there were no value in the ECU anywhere that might clip the revs per mile or be lower than what we need.
See if this drives ok. It's essentially the same as rev. 58.
I didn’t get a chance to try out Rev59 bc it started raining after I had it on the lift and it certainly wasn’t supposed to rain. So will try this today. In the back of my head though I really can’t believe this is a TCM issue. All the things I’ve done and I’m fighting with the TCM computer. Seems so unusual. So I took a look and I have easy access to my transmission cover. Hey, maybe I should replace the valve body and solenoid assembly and try again……I may do that if this goes on for another week or so.
shiittz I don't have your tires or suspension but I get road crown and groove pull like all the time.
too bad the programing set backs. you will get her there definitely in uncharted territory. hopefully this will resolve quicker than slower but I do believe you should level set your expectations. I know your safe driving season is coming to a clse as well. just stay slow and steady.
I may have found the smoking gun for the PCM and TCM. The ACC radar is deleted. Even not in use the ACC competes a vital circuit of information. That error fault could be the root cause of the TCM electrical issues as none of it seems mechanical. Simply plugging it back in even if it’s mounted facing the subframe it would satisfy that vital missing connection. Problems related to deleting things but keeping the stock ECU.
found it in a box somewhere huh?
I knew I had it and I intentionally left it off bc I don’t have the stock steering wheel but I guess it’s too integrated into the system to delete it
sorry i meant weight reduction...
Dressed up the ACC. 
So now the circle **** of signals will be complete again! It’s like having a cell phone. You’re aware of it in your pocket or whatever. If you can’t find it or misplace it your freak out. Same thing for the car lol it just needs to know it’s there
Ran out of time for a test drive tonight. Tomorrow
So now the circle **** of signals will be complete again! It’s like having a cell phone. You’re aware of it in your pocket or whatever. If you can’t find it or misplace it your freak out. Same thing for the car lol it just needs to know it’s there
Ran out of time for a test drive tonight. Tomorrow
let me ask you this, first where did you whip up the skull and cross bones. second where did you find space to put it?
Stickers I had from a couple years ago. Used to have 2 of those skulls one on each side of the front bumper. Had space available tucked into the outside of the fender. The missing link you can think of like a file. Computer crashes searching for said file. Reboot, upload file and computer is back to running smooth again. That’s how this should work. Better work I should say. All signs lead to this. @aaron240 unplugged his before he scrapped his SHO and said it made it drive wonky. I forgot about that. Mine was in pieces when he learned that. Another guy on FB I believe had same issue and plugged it in and let it sit inside around same area mine is now sitting. Will get acc is blocked message but can clear that.
I really can’t wait to test drive it.
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