4 codes. How screwed am I?

[TheDecalGuy]

I have a 2010 with 84k and the check engine light came on yesterday and it started to run like poo.
Here’s the codes it’s throwing:
P0011
P0018
P0021
P052A

On a scale of 1-10 how screwed am I?

 

[SaveMelMac]

Codes look to be mostly camshaft related, expect for the last one. Sometimes one fix will clear all those codes.

 

['14SHO]

Timing chain?

 

[Signal13]

I have a 2010 with 84k and the check engine light came on yesterday and it started to run like poo.
Here’s the codes it’s throwing:
P0011
P0018
P0021
P052A

On a scale of 1-10 how screwed am I?

How often do you change your oil? Who does it and what type of filters do you use? Changing the oil and using higher quality filters is a start. The codes are indicating that your camshaft sensors, the actuator and position sensors are stuck in the advanced position or are not correlating correctly. This can be caused by clogged or stuck open passages. This can cause poor engine performance like your seeing. Check your oil level and condition. If you are are close to oil change time get a can of seafoam and add about 1.5oz to your oil. Clear the codes and drive the car for a few hundred miles. Then change the oil, full synthetic is a good idea, and get a high quality oil filter. Doing this before you start changing out components will save you some dough.


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[TheDecalGuy]

How often do you change your oil? Who does it and what type of filters do you use? Changing the oil and using higher quality filters is a start. The codes are indicating that your camshaft sensors, the actuator and position sensors are stuck in the advanced position or are not correlating correctly. This can be caused by clogged or stuck open passages. This can cause poor engine performance like your seeing. Check your oil level and condition. If you are are close to oil change time get a can of seafoam and add about 1.5oz to your oil. Clear the codes and drive the car for a few hundred miles. Then change the oil, full synthetic is a good idea, and get a high quality oil filter. Doing this before you start changing out components will save you some dough.


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Thank you so much for the info. It was last changed 2000 miles ago by Munro. I will try this. I was worried about driving it like that. It wouldn’t damage anything further?

 

[Signal13]

Thank you so much for the info. It was last changed 2000 miles ago by Munro. I will try this. I was worried about driving it like that. It wouldn’t damage anything further?

Clearing the codes, with the engine off, then turning the veh off, then turning the veh on and seeing how it idles with the scantool on will give you a good idea on how it’s goin to run and limit damage. If the codes return immediately then I wouldn’t push it. I’d get it to a shop quickly. Most likely it’s a camshaft position actuator and or a camshaft position sensor replacement. Worse case scenario.


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[TheDecalGuy]

Clearing the codes, with the engine off, then turning the veh off, then turning the veh on and seeing how it idles with the scantool on will give you a good idea on how it’s goin to run and limit damage. If the codes return immediately then I wouldn’t push it. I’d get it to a shop quickly. Most likely it’s a camshaft position actuator and or a camshaft position sensor replacement. Worse case scenario.


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Ok thanks. Sorry for the noob question but what is veh?

 

[Signal13]

Ok thanks. Sorry for the noob question but what is veh?

Sorry it’s short for vehicle, I always write that in my service reports at work, gets to be a habit.


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[TheDecalGuy]

Lol got cha. Thanks again!

 

[SHOdded]

In the absence of startup rattles, most likely a cam position sensor. Startup rattles and/or vct solenoid codes point more to timing chains.

 

[geophb]

I would start with replacing both cam and the crank sensor. Idk how much they are, 40$ each? If that doesn't fix it then replacement of timing chain/tensioner/guides/waterpump etc is probly next in line

 

[twobitcoder]

Similar codes came up in my 2013 Toyota Sienna (high mileage fleet vehicle). It was notm likely due to crap oil because those sensors are sensitive and need clean oil. Either due to waiting too long before the last oil change or shop not draining properly, leaving dirty pul in the pan. My can cleared up on its own after doing a second oil change sooner than usual.

 

[twobitcoder]

p.s. I will not accept responsibility for typos when I'm not allowed to edit.

 

[TheDecalGuy]

I avoided touching the car since the last post. I just went out and started it and it sounds terrible. I turned it off and walked away. Pretty sure on that 1-10 scale I’m around a 15.

 

[TheDecalGuy]

I have an appointment Tuesday at the local Ford dealership for them to do a pin point test.

 

[shaker281]

Please take the time to update this thread with results. It will certainly help someone else going forward.

 

[SHOdded]

Can you describe the sound(s) you are hearing or do you have video?

 

[TheDecalGuy]

Here’s two vids. The first vid shows the issue. As soon as I quit recording the noise went away and it sounded normal. That’s shown in the second vid. No idea.

Vid 1:

Vid 2:

 

[Signal13]

Here’s two vids. The first vid shows the issue. As soon as I quit recording the noise went away and it sounded normal. That’s shown in the second vid. No idea.

Vid 1:

Vid 2:

Sounds like timing chain slap to me, I’d take it in.


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[SHOdded]

def not the rhythmic clackety-clacking we should be hearing.

Could be oil pressure or unresponsive vct solenoid issue. Are both banks sounding the same or just the one.