vortex2450
Buying Parts...
So to answer my own question a couple post back you can use the 3.0l pan with the 3.2l pump? Correct?
3.2l Swap Log
- Thread starter vortex2450
- Start date
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So to answer my own question a couple post back you can use the 3.0l pan with the 3.2l pump? Correct?
Bob Gervais
Wut?
Since that's what I told you to do, I hope so! 
Kidding. Yes, you can.
Kidding. Yes, you can.
vortex2450
Buying Parts...
I'm stuck, I can't get the outer tie rods off on either side, on one side the cotter pin is broken off and on the other it's just a nut which just spins in place.... And I don't have a deep well 30mm axle socket either.. what should I do to disconnect the axles?
91PDXmocha
Active Member
Buy a 30mm socket... you have to take the nuts off .
Use a punch to knock the broken pin out .
I found that turning the wheel helped bind up the tie rod and little to help taking it off .
Use a punch to knock the broken pin out .
I found that turning the wheel helped bind up the tie rod and little to help taking it off .
vortex2450
Buying Parts...
got the socket now, working on getting the nuts off, what's my next step? Resume fighting the tie rods? I need to get the axles out of the spindles....
Gahh this is wasting so much time
I'm not having any luck taking the tie rods or sway bar end links off,.,,, HELP?!
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kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
Try and tighten the side that just spins, to reseat the tie rod in the knuckle. Then try to loosen it again. Or, if you had an impact, you could try using that.
Endlinks, you should need an 18mm wrench to turn the big nut, and you have to hold the center with an 8mm. Spray them with pb blaster and let it soak for a bit first.
Try putting the 18mm on the nut and smacking it with a hammer to loosen - its easier to shock them loose. Also make sure you're trying to turn it the right way.
Endlinks, you should need an 18mm wrench to turn the big nut, and you have to hold the center with an 8mm. Spray them with pb blaster and let it soak for a bit first.
Try putting the 18mm on the nut and smacking it with a hammer to loosen - its easier to shock them loose. Also make sure you're trying to turn it the right way.
vortex2450
Buying Parts...
I have a new steering rack w/ tie rods that I'm going to put in so I just used the sawz all and cut the side that didn't want to cooperate. The end links are now my focus..
I managed to start getting the big nut off but the center hex hole stripped out before I could make consider progress.....
I may end up cutting that too, I'm done screwing around with this rusted out front end crap..
lowc
aka vapah lock
oh its not that bad. if you want to, when i decide to do the rest of my suspention you can come give me a hand and deal with some real rust.
vortex2450
Buying Parts...
I know it's not that bad, it's just that I wasted half my day getting just tie rods and end links off... Frustrating to say the least.
Anyways I didn't meet my goal of pulling the 3.0l but I did make progress...
Got the 3.2l stripped and ready for the mtx and accessories.
Pulled most of the tubes/hoses/electrical connections off the engine, including the main engines harness. Removed both acc belts, pulled off fuel rails/injectors. Disconnected the rod shifter, drained coolant, drained oil, drained PS fluid.
It's too dark to continue on but first thing tomorrow I am pulling the axles, finishing disconnection of anything holding the 3.0l to the car and pull the sucker out when my friend shows up.
My hope is that by tomorrow's end I'll have the 3.2l buttoned up and ready to go back in.
I also plan on replacing the sway bar, end links, steering rack, and tie rods with the fresh stuff I have off the 3.2l sub frame.
My two concerns are this:
A) How exactly do I remove the axles?
and
B) How to I go about disconnecting to A/C system?
Anyways I didn't meet my goal of pulling the 3.0l but I did make progress...
Got the 3.2l stripped and ready for the mtx and accessories.
Pulled most of the tubes/hoses/electrical connections off the engine, including the main engines harness. Removed both acc belts, pulled off fuel rails/injectors. Disconnected the rod shifter, drained coolant, drained oil, drained PS fluid.
It's too dark to continue on but first thing tomorrow I am pulling the axles, finishing disconnection of anything holding the 3.0l to the car and pull the sucker out when my friend shows up.
My hope is that by tomorrow's end I'll have the 3.2l buttoned up and ready to go back in.
I also plan on replacing the sway bar, end links, steering rack, and tie rods with the fresh stuff I have off the 3.2l sub frame.
My two concerns are this:
A) How exactly do I remove the axles?
and
B) How to I go about disconnecting to A/C system?
kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
**** the endlinks too, cut them off, buy new ones.
Axles - Remove the axle nut (30mm and a screwdriver in the brake rotor to keep it from turning) disconnect tie rods and endlinks (done already) and take the pinch bolt out and use a pry bar to pull the knuckle down off the strut. Smack the end of the axle a few times to loosen it up to push it back out of the knuckle. Then pull the knuckle out at whatever angle you need to pull the axle out of the back side of it. You gotta wrestle with it, but it'll come out.
That's how I've done it at least...
To get them out of the trans - for the passenger side there is a carrier bearing with 2 bolts in it (12mm IIRC) take those bolts out and just slide the shaft out of the trans.
Driver's side - after you have it out of the knuckle, you need to put something between the trans and the axle to pop it out. I used a pickle fork and mine came out easy - you need a quick pop to get it loose. Most people use prybars, but the pickle fork was the first thing I found and it worked.
Axles - Remove the axle nut (30mm and a screwdriver in the brake rotor to keep it from turning) disconnect tie rods and endlinks (done already) and take the pinch bolt out and use a pry bar to pull the knuckle down off the strut. Smack the end of the axle a few times to loosen it up to push it back out of the knuckle. Then pull the knuckle out at whatever angle you need to pull the axle out of the back side of it. You gotta wrestle with it, but it'll come out.
That's how I've done it at least...
To get them out of the trans - for the passenger side there is a carrier bearing with 2 bolts in it (12mm IIRC) take those bolts out and just slide the shaft out of the trans.
Driver's side - after you have it out of the knuckle, you need to put something between the trans and the axle to pop it out. I used a pickle fork and mine came out easy - you need a quick pop to get it loose. Most people use prybars, but the pickle fork was the first thing I found and it worked.
vortex2450
Buying Parts...
I've got the 30mm axle nut off as well, what pinch bolt are you talking about? The bolt that holds the ball joint?
When you say smack the end of the axles your referring to the threaded part the nut goes on right?
-Josh
kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
There is a pinch bolt at the bottom of the knuckle for the ball joint, and one at the top that bolts the knuckle to the strut. The one at the top is the one I'm referring to. You can try to get the axle pulled out with out taking the knuckle off the strut, but I'm not sure if it's possible.
Yes, I'm talking about the threaded part the nut goes on. If you have a small piece of wood you can use as a cushion between the hammer and the axle, that might be better.
Unless of course your axle just slides right out, but I've never had that kind of luck.
Yes, I'm talking about the threaded part the nut goes on. If you have a small piece of wood you can use as a cushion between the hammer and the axle, that might be better.
Unless of course your axle just slides right out, but I've never had that kind of luck.
lowc
aka vapah lock
do your self a favor and leave the nut threaded on untill its flush with the end of the axle , so you dont mushroom the end hen hitting it with a hammer. the pinch bolt holding on the strut is the one he is talking about. but you could disconnect the b.j. instead and do it the same way.
vortex2450
Buying Parts...
I'll take utmost care in protecting the end of the axle..
I have to replace the LCA/ball point on the pass side anyway so does it matter which pinch bolt I remove? Iowc did you take the knuckle off the strut or off the LCA?
-Josh
I have to replace the LCA/ball point on the pass side anyway so does it matter which pinch bolt I remove? Iowc did you take the knuckle off the strut or off the LCA?
-Josh
lowc
aka vapah lock
i did mine off the lca. it took a little bit more muscle but came out no problem
you can take the axle out without taking the knuckle off the strut, I've done it many times.
if the axle is stuck in the hub, the proper approach is to put a puller on it and force the axle out of the hub with the puller. if you bang on it with a hammer, you have a very good chance of damaging the wheel bearings.
if you put never-seize on the splines before you install it, you have a much better chance of getting it apart easily the next time.
vortex2450
Buying Parts...
I haven't pulled the axles yet but pretty have everything else ready. Still running into a couple small hoses and what not..
I have the nuts off both motor mounts, but the tranny mount is akward and I'm not quite sure where I should disconnect it, it looks like no matter where I disconnect the mount getting it in/out it looking to be a PITA.
Also, on the tranny there is an arm that is attached to a cable, what is this and how the **** do I Get it off?
-josh
I have the nuts off both motor mounts, but the tranny mount is akward and I'm not quite sure where I should disconnect it, it looks like no matter where I disconnect the mount getting it in/out it looking to be a PITA.
Also, on the tranny there is an arm that is attached to a cable, what is this and how the **** do I Get it off?
-josh
kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
To remove the clutch cable - lift all the way up on the clutch pedal and keep it propped with a wrench, or anything really. This will disengage the quadrant. Then go into the engine bay and pull out on the clutch cable. You should be able to pull it out enough to pull it off of the fork.
There are just two bolts that hold the transmission to it's mount, they can be accessed from the fenderwell. You do need to unbolt he torque dampener as well. That, and the trans sheild may be what you are looking at, making things seem more difficult than they are.
There are just two bolts that hold the transmission to it's mount, they can be accessed from the fenderwell. You do need to unbolt he torque dampener as well. That, and the trans sheild may be what you are looking at, making things seem more difficult than they are.
vortex2450
Buying Parts...
Alright I got the procedure now....
The cable and then just the two main bolts and the torque dampener for the trans side?
I'll go attack it now, buttt
how in gods name do I tackle the A/C compressor? I can't get the alt off because all all the A/C stuff in the way and the alt blocks me for getting a clear shot to the compressor.
I don't need A/C so I don't care if I have to evacuate the system but I would rather try and keep it together.. The compressor is soon to be the only thing stopping me from pulling the engine/trans up.
Ideas are welcome,
\thanks,
-Josh
The cable and then just the two main bolts and the torque dampener for the trans side?
I'll go attack it now, buttt
how in gods name do I tackle the A/C compressor? I can't get the alt off because all all the A/C stuff in the way and the alt blocks me for getting a clear shot to the compressor.
I don't need A/C so I don't care if I have to evacuate the system but I would rather try and keep it together.. The compressor is soon to be the only thing stopping me from pulling the engine/trans up.
Ideas are welcome,
\thanks,
-Josh
88GTA92SHO
aka NCtaurusSHO
Good luck making it to the TSHOC meet.
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