3.2 Swap going down this weekend (help)

[SLoW_SHO_316]

Ok, my plan is to pull the motor from the top, hopefully leaving the tranny in place and not having to mess with any of that. I was told this may not be possible, but I THINK it can be done. Anyone ever use this method before?

Also, any experienced SHO motor swappers have a rundown of some things I should look for? Maybe a quick list of the key things I'm going to have to disconnect.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

-Nick

 

[operdot]

uum you have causing youself more grief by leaving the tranny in then taking it out with the motor, also quite dangerous just b/c those greaboxes arent auto doesnt mean they dont weigh anything, sure i can pick one up by myself but i wouldnt want to pull one without propper tools.

 

[Ace]

exactly,your better off pulling it motor and tranny...youll thank your self for it later...pulling it from the top isnt too bad to do...

 

[shomesomesho]

Ok, my plan is to pull the motor from the top, hopefully leaving the tranny in place and not having to mess with any of that. I was told this may not be possible, but I THINK it can be done. Anyone ever use this method before?

I've done it that way. It's definitely possible and not very hard.

Just make sure you put a jack or something under the tranny to support it.

It helps to have a second person help you position the motor when you put it back in, too.

Good luck.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Pull the tranny with the motor. Much, much easier in the end.

Buy a big (50 lb.) bag of Speedi-Dri. Not the cat litter type shit, but real Speedi-Dri.

Good luck!

 

[Jonny Cash]

Yea Im with sticking it all in at once. Alot easier imo. But good luck however you do it.. Everything will just fall into place once you catch those mounts.

 

[Sh03d]

I just pulled the engine separate from the trans. I had a problem of not getting enough clearance between the bell housing and the pressure plate. In the end I had to disconnect the shifter linkage (which was pretty stressed by this time) and It finally came loose.

I would suggest taking it out together or defiantly disconnecting the shifter linkage.

 

[pjtoledo]

Be sure to pull the Y pipe off. The engine will not come straight up with it still attached. Either remove the radiator or put a piece of plywood next to it. Murphy's law dictates that any dangling motor will be attracted to soft, expensive aluminum.


Perry

 

[TYSHO]

Either remove the radiator or put a piece of plywood next to it. Murphy's law dictates that any dangling motor will be attracted to soft, expensive aluminum.

That's when you gotta use your "stiff arm" football move! I remember doing that just to keep it away from the front and move it around some other odds and ends.

 

[SLoW_SHO_316]

while replacing my rear main seal I noticed I didnt have a gasket for the part when you take off all those 10mm bolts. Is it ok to use gasket maker on this part?

 

[TYSHO]

RCM stocks those, they are carrier gaskets.

 

[SLoW_SHO_316]

Ok here's an update. 3.0 is out, the wiring harness looks menacing as ****. The plan for the next 2 days is; swap all the accesories, motor mount stuff, flywheel/clutch, cams, timing stuff, cut the chunk off the front head, do the rod bearings, wiring harness, drop the 3.2 in w/o the oil pan and rear mount (picking up new oil pan and new rear mount thursday) and connect everything so that the car will be ready to go once I have the new oil pan and rear mount.

We left the tranny in the car, didn't even touch anything on it. Left the radiator in. We took a few pics with my ****** camera phone.

 

[TYSHO]

drop the 3.2 in w/o the oil pan and rear mount (picking up new oil pan and new rear mount thursday)

Leave the oil pan in until you are ready to put the 3.0 pan in, don't leave the bottom end exposed to debris.