3.0 to 3.2 Swap (What needs to be done?)

[SHOyork]

I have a 91 that I want to put a 3.2 into. The 3.2 is going to be completely rebuilt with new everything I can find. My question to anyone that has done this, is what pieces I need to keep from the 3.0. I want to be able to modify the 3.2 as little as possible with 3.0 items, if not at all. I need to drive my 3.0 while I do all of this, so I'd rather not buy pieces I need just because I can't access them.

Found a few articles, but this one was the most complete (However, it's from 2002 and I wanted more recent views):

http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/mod...e=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=167

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Swap 3.0 head onto the 3.2 and it will be the same as dropping a 3.0 in.

All accessories from the 3.0 will need to be moved over.

 

[WSC-SHO]

Swap 3.0 head onto the 3.2 and it will be the same as dropping a 3.0 in.

All accessories from the 3.0 will need to be moved over.

This, with 3.0 heads I don't believe you have to do any modifications. Just drop it in. Also IIRC, 3.0 cams in the heads will give you better top end hp... :sun:

 

[jayro]

Yep. Just use the 3.2 rotating assembly and swap over all the 3.0 heads and accsesories. You can use the 3.2 heads if you want, you just have to modify part of it so it will work. IIRC you just have to cut off a piece of the aluminium so the alt bracket fits. I would use the 3.2 injectors if you have them, if not the 3.0 ones will work.

There has been some debate about the benefit of the 3.0 cams vs the 3.2 ones. I would go ahead with the 3.0 ones if it were me, but thats just my opinion. Basically the 3.0 ones have a little more lift......or you could always get some aftermarket ones from shonutperformance.com.

 

[frosho]

Don't forget the 3.0 oil pan.

 

[WSC-SHO]

Don't forget the 3.0 oil pan.

Why the 3.0 oil pan?

 

[jayro]

Why the 3.0 oil pan?

It is not a must (Ive seen them with 3.2 pans) but it seems to fit better with the 3.0 pan, probably due to the mtx engine location vs the atx. Also,I believe the sensor in the 3.2 pan is in a different location so you have to address that.

 

[frosho]

Sensor location, as stated. I thought there was another reason too, but I'm having trouble remembering it. Exhaust clearance perhaps? (this is from memory - I haven't done the swap myself ...yet)

 

[trainguy1989]

Sensor location, as stated. I thought there was another reason too, but I'm having trouble remembering it. Exhaust clearance perhaps? (this is from memory - I haven't done the swap myself ...yet)

Another reason is the MTX transmission does not bolt directly to the 3.2 pan. I used the 3.2 pan and I am missing the two oil pan bolts. Does not harm a thing. I just extended the wiring harness. Exhaust will clear. I forgot why I used the 3.2 pan but I read somewhere that it was better to use the 3.2 pan (something to do with the oil sump?).

 

[SHOyork]

Easier than I thought

Thanks for all the advice. Maybe i'll post photos while i'm doing it.

 

[lowc]

dont forget to time it as a 3.0 or you will drive your self nuts trying to figure out why it runs like shit

 

[pitaSHO]

I don't think you CAN time it as a 3.2. The difference between the two is how much slack is taken up in the pulleys. I just did this two weeks ago and there's no way to get the cam marks to line up AND get it put on the 3.2 setting. Kinda nice that this is one thing you can't screw up.

Also, you'll need to pull the retaining pin for the 3.0 timing belt tensioner and put it into the 3.2 block.

Chris K.

 

[Denny]

3.0 heads or cut a little bit off the front head for the alternator and use 3.2 wires for where the coilpack mounts. 3.0 oil pan because of the bolt pattern to trans, exhaust hanger clearance and oil level sensor. 3.0 accessories and timing belt setup. 3.0 mounts and engine mount braces. 3.0 exhaust manifolds. 3.0 rear intake manifold because it's non-EGR, unless you have California emissions, in which case, delete with 49 state PCM. :sun: Enjoy new found torque!

 

[HUTCH]

You could use the 3.2 accessories and timing belt setup as I did. You would have to modify the front mtx motor mount to attach properly to the 3.2, turn the rear atx motor mount around, and fab a bracket for the intermediate shaft and bearing. You don't have to use the 3.0 oil pan, but I did. And the engine harness from the 3.0.
Am I missing anything?

 

[HUTCH]

almost forgot... exhaust manifolds and y pipe from the 3.0

 

[vortex2450]

There is a lot that has to be done, to fit the 3.2 engine with 3.2 heads in, but nothing that is too in depth

here is a thread I made during my swap for reference purposes.

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=116379

Off the top of my head,

All 3.0 accessories
3.0 timing tensioner and stud
3.0 oil pan ( not required but suggested)
cutting/grinding off small piece of 3.2 front head to fit alternator
3.0 exhaust manifolds/covers
3.0 intake because almost all 3.2 intakes have EGR or you can fab up a block plate


Beyond that there isn't too much, you can leave 3.2 oil pump as it is said that the 3.2 has a better flowing pump, umm, people like to swap in 3.0 intake cams but I didn't, I get a solid 27 mpg over the 25 mpg I got with my 3.0 and I credit this to the lower range torque the 3.2 cams allow.

It's personal choice there, One day I will dyno with both cams in the same set up and post dyno results then the argument will be settled

 

[HUTCH]

I did mine a couple months ago and used alot of info from your post's, vortex. Even the part about smashing a digit... could have done without that, lol. my fingernail is just now growing back to normal.
But ya, as far as difficulty between 3.0 vs 3.2 accessories, I would guess it to be a little harder to keep the 3.2 accessories due to the fabrication necessary. Luckily, I had access to the tools, materials, and an autobody shop to do them in.

 

[rubydist]

you do not "need" to swap all the 3.0 accessories over, if you fab a new front motor mount and half shaft bearing support like this:

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=113467

keeping the 3.2 accessories eliminates the dual accessory belt setup that is impossible to tension properly, and lets you use the larger alternator that the 3.2s have, as well as eliminating the need for all the other modifications to heads, etc listed above. all you need to modify is the wire harness connector to the alternator.

you do need 3.0 exhaust manifolds and of course a flywheel and flywheel bolts.

if you use the 3.2 pan, you just need to extend the wiring for the low oil sensor.

I put the 3.0 intake cams in mine, but if I did it again I don't think I would bother unless planning to boost it. either way, you will like the additional torque that the 3.2 offers!

 

[03cobraSHO]

Can you leave the 3.2 engine harness and use it on the original 3.0 MTX car. It appears to be the same?

 

[rubydist]

no, the wiring harness is quite a bit different between atx and mtx, so you need the 3.0 harness.