2012 Turbo Replacement

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jhardy1

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I took my 2012 MKS Ecoboost in to the shop on an underboost code, and lo and behold, both turbos need replaced. Shop quoted $6,000, which seems super high to me. I've read that replacing the turbos is challenging, but doable. I found some replacement turbos online, but I question their legitimacy:

Are these OEM or some knockoff?

I was also recommended to replace the intake hoses due to oil contamination. Where can I find those (or other replacement parts)?

Is there a not-over-$3000 option for aftermarket stuff here? Any Help would be greatly appreciated :)
 

yaycandy

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Its after april fools…

The code for underboost is commonly fixed with replacing the boost solenoid. I had to replace mine a couple years ago for the same code.
You said it makes boost, now the turbos both need replaced? Get your diagnostic money back.
Gunna tell me both turbos aint makin boost and need replaced. I throw the challenge flag.

In all seriousnessness its your money, do what you feel is needed. 6k plus to drop on a 11-12 year old car is nutz. Clear the codes and trade it in at that point
 
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jhardy1

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Its after april fools…

The code for underboost is commonly fixed with replacing the boost solenoid. I had to replace mine a couple years ago for the same code.
You said it makes boost, now the turbos both need replaced? Get your diagnostic money back.
Gunna tell me both turbos aint makin boost and need replaced. I throw the challenge flag.

In all seriousnessness its your money, do what you feel is needed. 6k plus to drop on a 11-12 year old car is nutz. Clear the codes and trade it in at that point
There was oil leaking in/out of both of the turbos. Does that change anything?

I Do not plan on going with that mechanic, their price for parts was preposterous.



Also how do i delete a comment i forgot to reply as lmao
 

yaycandy

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The oil you mentioned about in the other thread is normal accumulation. People on here still suck the oil out of their intercoolers on a normal basis with oil changes. A shaft seal cant fully seal from oil so oil will accumulate over time. When the turbos go they will rid 6 quarts very quickly and starve the engine of oil
 

toms89

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Its after april fools…

The code for underboost is commonly fixed with replacing the boost solenoid. I had to replace mine a couple years ago for the same code.
You said it makes boost, now the turbos both need replaced? Get your diagnostic money back.
Gunna tell me both turbos aint makin boost and need replaced. I throw the challenge flag.

In all seriousnessness its your money, do what you feel is needed. 6k plus to drop on a 11-12 year old car is nutz. Clear the codes and trade it in at that point
When you say boost solenoid, are you speaking about the wastegate canisters or bypass valves?
 

jhardy1

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When you say boost solenoid, are you speaking about the wastegate canisters or bypass valves?
I believe hea talking of the small black box on top of the intake with vac tubes connected to the wastegates and intake
 

jhardy1

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Its after april fools…

The code for underboost is commonly fixed with replacing the boost solenoid. I had to replace mine a couple years ago for the same code.
You said it makes boost, now the turbos both need replaced? Get your diagnostic money back.
Gunna tell me both turbos aint makin boost and need replaced. I throw the challenge flag.

In all seriousnessness its your money, do what you feel is needed. 6k plus to drop on a 11-12 year old car is nutz. Clear the codes and trade it in at that point
You won't believe this dude. I went back this evening to drive the car to the store, and I hear a scraping/dragging noise. These jokers didn't put the bottom engine bay plastic back on right, and it's dragging on the ground.

I'm getting a refund. This is ridiculous.
 

yaycandy

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You won't believe this dude. I went back this evening to drive the car to the store, and I hear a scraping/dragging noise. These jokers didn't put the bottom engine bay plastic back on right, and it's dragging on the ground.

I'm getting a refund. This is ridiculous.
Thats funny. Hope it aint messed up. They spensive
 

toms89

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They get caked up with oil from blow by over time. They stick
Interesting, didn't realize these had any history of failure. If it sticks on occasion it would be difficult to diagnose short of replacing it and see what happens.
 

yaycandy

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Interesting, didn't realize these had any history of failure. If it sticks on occasion it would be difficult to diagnose short of replacing it and see what happens.
I think it feeds to the wastegates. Blow by cakes up everywhere. Also good to replace the pcv every year or so. The little ball in there wont seat correctly if its got crud in it and causes issues to make you think parts need replaced. Pcv valve is very cheap from ford and easy to replace. Catch cans work and help alot but still not perfect
 

jhardy1

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Update: Planning on replacing the boost solenoid today after work - looks like it's really easy to replace. The O'Reilly's across town has it in stock.

As I was driving today, the car ran like shit and threw a CEL. P0193 - High Circuit on the fuel system. Checked the fuses, 27 in the engine bay - Fuel Pump fuse - was like not seated correctly. Fixed that, cleared the code, and it runs normally now. It was 100% the fucknards at the shop I took it to. Never going back there.
 

jhardy1

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Yeah they're gonna get a scathing Google review. My Dad has been going to them for years with his Ford turbodiesel trucks, never had a bad experience. They aren't a diesel-oriented shop either. No more though.

I've been reading a lot that these cars really need a good, topped off battery. Wonder if it's worth upgrading to an Optima or something.
 

jhardy1

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Update: I replaced the boost solenoid. Still tops out at 0 psi boost. I drove with the top engine plastic off, the turbos are spooling loud (not in a bad way, just the normal whine of a turbo).

Boost leak? Dipshits at the shop probably didn't check the BOVs for damaged gaskets. I'll check that later today
 

yaycandy

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pull them both off and pull out on them to see if the orange rubber is torn. Sounds like a big boost leak. Check the plastic pipes on the turbos. They crack, check intercooler piping also. They crack. Dam plastic. If both turbos spin and spool and make no boost then you should also have low oil if the turbos were bad. Usually ill drive out and help diagnose a members sho but you out in potato land. To far. Got a good potato gift shop?
 

jhardy1

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pull them both off and pull out on them to see if the orange rubber is torn. Sounds like a big boost leak. Check the plastic pipes on the turbos. They crack, check intercooler piping also. They crack. Dam plastic. If both turbos spin and spool and make no boost then you should also have low oil if the turbos were bad. Usually ill drive out and help diagnose a members sho but you out in potato land. To far. Got a good potato gift shop?
Haha yeah we're a bit far from PA. Not too much of that stuff in Boise, too gentrified. Northern/Eastern Idaho has all that stuff though lol.
 

jhardy1

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Update: Checked the BOVs. Both orange gaskets look perfect. Front one was nearly dry, just a light sheen of oil on it. Back one was pretty oily.

Checked all the hoses I really could from the top w/o removing anything. Didn't see anything loose/cracked. Can't check from the bottom - no way to lift the car atm.


Taking it to a different shop tomorrow. Hopefully I'll have better luck. I'll tell them to only check boost leaks. Worst case scenario they fix the damn bottom plastic engine cover.
 

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