2010 SHO w/225k Timing Chain

[F.X.5]

Hello, long time member, not much of a poster. Last summer, my girlfriend and I traveled 7 hours south to buy a “cheap” SHO. It’s a clean 2010 with 225k, intake, magnaflow exhaust, tuned (idk by who), rolling on H&R springs.

We drove the car home and put about 5k miles on it before parking it for winter due to keeping the salt off of it. The car runs well and doesn’t drip or burn a drop of fluid. It does have its quirks and I’m certain it needs a torque converter. This is where the questions come in.

I don’t have a lift so the engine will be coming out the top. Since the engine is out, it makes sense to do the water pump and timing chain (it does have the cold start up rattle).

So my questions are, is a factory TC the best option for a DD car? Is there a preferred timing chain/water pump kit everyone buys (possibly a vendor on the forum)? What else should I order and replace while the engine is out? Cost effective things of course. Lastly, does anyone have any experience pulling the engine out of the top? Tips and tricks?

I’ll try to add a pic of the car once I figure out how to post a picture.

Thank you in advance.

 

[F.X.5]

Best I can do for not, the better pictures are too big apparently lol.

 

[SM105K]

Couple of questions. Are the timing chains making noise? Also what signs are pointing you to the torque converter?

 

[F.X.5]

It has the timing chain rattle on a cold start up. With the miles and the engine out, I’d rather replace the water pump and timing set. I have a pile of maintenance slips from the previous owner but nothing about a water pump or timing set.

The car surges under light load. Surges cruising down the highway. Seems to be better when the cruise is set. I have another thread from when we bought the car about the torque converter. I took it to the local ford garage and they too agreeded the TC was bad. That’s what I’m going on.

 

[SM105K]

Okay sounds like you have a plan. I would replace the whole timing set including all the VVT components. Doing the water pump would be perfect at that time as well. Check the turbos. Personally I would just replace them with stock units if it is in your budget.

Personally the stock TC are the best. There really isn't anything out there that is better. Remember, we are a niche community.

 

[F.X.5]

Is there a complete kit that everyone seems to have good luck with? Anywhere in particular to order parts at the best price?

 

[SM105K]

I would bite the bullet and order directly from Ford.

 

[luigisho]

If you are going to do that get the part numbers and shop it around. there are Ford parts sellers that will have lower prices than the local dealer

 

[F.X.5]

I’ll have to shop around I guess. I wasn’t sure if everyone was ordering the same kit or not. May just go rockauto. Always have good luck with them.

Anything else I should replace while it’s out? Want to make sure I have all the parts ready for when it comes apart.

 

[Jeff2017]

Looks pretty sharp for those kind of miles. Glad to hear the water pump has the potential to go 225k.

 

[F.X.5]

Looks pretty sharp for those kind of miles. Glad to hear the water pump has the potential to go 225k.

As far as I know it’s original and still running good. We bought it with 219k for a fair price.

 

[SHOdded]

http://www.tascaparts.com Use JAN5 coupon code for up to $15 off purchase.

http://parts.levittownfordparts.com

http://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com

and of course eBay. Sometimes you get oneoff deals on brand new, OEM parts.

 

[Sgtmeatsauce1]

#1 make sure that tune is not the culprit on the surges. Are you in mountainous, several of my csrs in the past only surged in mountain areas.
#2 what oil filter is on the car? I think 2010 still uses 5w-20 oil, so make sure you run that and ONLY MOTORCRAFT FL500S filter. Most others some reason cause the slap. It you going to change the parts anyway use only genuine Ford parts, and shop around prices vaty alot. Once changed stay with MC filter, synthetic oil with 5,000 or so change interval. Change your PTU fluid evey 25 000 or less with Amsoil or Redline or other goodstuff. Can put on a pigtail on PTU for ease of changes. Change trans fluid every 50,000 with MC or Amsoil or other goodstuff. Rear same good stuff every 50,000. And if you really want to keep the old beast change all the radiator fluid every 30,000 to 50,000....the fluid lubes the TC and othet delicate parts....goid luck with you acquisition!

 

[F.X.5]

http://www.tascaparts.com Use JAN5 coupon code for up to $15 off purchase.

http://parts.levittownfordparts.com

http://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com

and of course eBay. Sometimes you get oneoff deals on brand new, OEM parts.

Thank you for the link and the code. I may be able to contact tasca and they could help make sure I have everything I’ll need. I’ve had good luck with them in the past.

#1 make sure that tune is not the culprit on the surges. Are you in mountainous, several of my csrs in the past only surged in mountain areas.
#2 what oil filter is on the car? I think 2010 still uses 5w-20 oil, so make sure you run that and ONLY MOTORCRAFT FL500S filter. Most others some reason cause the slap. It you going to change the parts anyway use only genuine Ford parts, and shop around prices vaty alot. Once changed stay with MC filter, synthetic oil with 5,000 or so change interval. Change your PTU fluid evey 25 000 or less with Amsoil or Redline or other goodstuff. Can put on a pigtail on PTU for ease of changes. Change trans fluid every 50,000 with MC or Amsoil or other goodstuff. Rear same good stuff every 50,000. And if you really want to keep the old beast change all the radiator fluid every 30,000 to 50,000....the fluid lubes the TC and othet delicate parts....goid luck with you acquisition!

It surges more so in the hills. We live in central PA, hills everywhere. When I bought the car. I asked if it was tuned, he said it wasn’t to his knowledge. I took it to Ford to get their opinion on the surge. They informed me it is indeed tuned and the TC is going bad which is causing the surge. $100 later... I asked them to reflash it back to stock so I knew where I was but they didn’t think that was a good idea. They said it may ruin the computer or something. Basically they didn’t want the liability of doing it. I have no idea what tunes it has, all I know is it has a pile of miles and I’m not sure I want to mess with the tuning. I don’t know much about tuning.

Those are good tips on the fluid changes. I put a motorcraft oil filter on it as well as used 5-20 mobile 1 oil. I have piles of oil change slips from the previous owners.

 

[Sgtmeatsauce1]

Ask about the tuning question on the forum or ecoboostperformance forum....i think they bs you. See if you have a 3 bar or 2 bar maf....need 2 bar to go to stock

 

[Johnbigdog]

Ask about the tuning question on the forum or ecoboostperformance forum....i think they bs you. See if you have a 3 bar or 2 bar MAP....need 2 bar to go to stock

Corected mass air flow to manifold absolute pressure

 

[Sgtmeatsauce1]

Yep sorry used to my last 3 cars!

 

[F.X.5]

Corected mass air flow to manifold absolute pressure

So I need to be sure I have a 2 bar or 3 bar or maf or map? Lost me a little there. Car is a 2010.

 

[Sgtmeatsauce1]

Yes 2 bar is stock, 3 bar you have a tune. It held on by 1 screw on tippy top of manifold..there are 2 bar tunes but usually you go for 3 bar, 3 bar you for sure have tune. Both look dame have to get part number off of it to check

 

[Lostneye]

So I need to be sure I have a 2 bar or 3 bar or maf or map? Lost me a little there. Car is a 2010.

MAP, these cars do not have a MAF sensor.

There are 2 MAP sensors, one on the intake tube just before the throttle body(this is a #bar stock), the other on top of the intake manifold(this would be 2 bar stock)