1995 mtx intermittently dies while driving

[Constant_mess]

You might want to familiarize yourself with Wiki SHO. There's a huge amount of info there. For instance:

http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/EEC_Self_Test_Procedure

Tach dropping to zero points to the camshaft sensor. Run your finger along the bottom of it to see if there's any oil there. Parts I use:

Camshaft Sensor (Duralast) F134 Autozone
Cam seal (National) 1213N O'Reilly

I've had at least 22 cases where the spark plugs have been completely immersed in oil, but the car has always run fine. Doesn't do the wires any good, though.

Observe that the secondary butterfly valve tabs are down engine off, meaning that the secondaries are open. Start the engine to make sure they are now closed with the tabs up top.

Bogging down under hard acceleration indicates a vacuum leak or dirty MAF. I've had several cases where this happened. Car runs fine under gentle acceleration each time.

I just took the old cam sensor out and it's full of oil so I guess I'll be replacing the the cam seal now. Is it right inside where the sensor sits?

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Yes. You will have to remove the torque limiter from its bracket, the bracket itself and upper timing belt cover (to get a better angle for when you lever the seal out). Unbolt the power steering reservoir and secure it out of the way at the rear of the engine. Lay some paper towels below the sensor so that no bolt can disappear into the rear engine mount, never to be seen again.

Then the cam sensor (7/32" socket) which you've already done, sensor O Ring (8mm) and semi circular vane behind it. Tap a thin long bladed screwdriver (without burs that could cause scratches) between the inner seal lip and camshaft. You will probably find that the first screwdriver won't be stiff enough, so keep on going bigger until the tool is stiff enough.

Put plenty of grease on the inside and outside of the new seal, and on the camshaft itself. Use the cam sensor O ring to draw the seal in, but make absolutely sure the seal goes in straight, otherwise it could jam and crack the O ring. This will get the seal in part way, but it will need to be pushed in further.

So you will need a 2 1/4" id x 1 5/8" plastic ring from the plumbing department at your local hardware store. Pic shows it as part of my intake cam seal installation tool:



Use a large washer over the end of the plastic ring and push the seal in further by levering against the strut tower. I use a 2" pipe for that.

The final step is to insert the square end of a 1/4" extension bar to make sure it's fully seated and in straight. The square portion should go all the way in and stop at the rounded portion. Use the bar to push it in further if necessary.

 

[rubydist]

Or the easy way is to just pull off the cam bearing cover and slip the seal in the right place, and reinstall the cam bearing cover.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

True. Much easier, but does take longer as the whole intake and rear valve cover have to be removed.

 

[Evan Silletto]

this write-up is great stuff, wow. sad about the owner, i hope his son appreciates the car!

I sure do