1994 ATX won't idle, stalls

[ozzake]

First off I'm new so I hope this is the right place for this.

I have a 1994 SHO 3.2 auto, its got 150k on it
Within the past few weeks it has gotten very hot and muggy in WI and my car started acting up. When I start it it runs fine like it should and I can drive it anywhere, but once I shut it off and try to restart it I get chaos. The car will start hard, then once it is running the tach will jump sporadically, it misfires terribly, and when you put it in gear it stalls. after an hour of sitting and cooling down it'll start right up again.

I changed the fuel filter and pump (didn't help, although it gained a lot of power)
I bought a code reader and took the codes off, cleared them all and waited to see what came back on, all I get is an EGR code (I'll scan it again today)
I changed the DIS

I'm running out of ideas, the only thing I can think of is it might be the crank position sensor

Any input would be extremely helpful
Thanks
Ozzie

 

[hawkeye18]

If the car does it worst after about 15 minutes of rest in a hot climate, then this is a known problem with SHOs and - as of now - there is no known solution for it.

The only way I've found to counteract this is to hold the throttle down to what would normally be 3-4k rpm. The engine will cough and sputter around 1800-2000rpm for about ten seconds, then it will suddenly and miraculously seem to find new life and the throttle will jump up to 3-4k rpm where it's supposed to be.

You can then put it in gear and drive normally.

As best I can figure, it is caused by a disparity between the air charge temp reported by the IAT and the actual temp of the air in the intake - which is much, much hotter due to the intake heating it up. Once all the air in the intake is cleared out, the disparity disappears, and the computer then is putting the right amount of fuel in.

 

[ozzake]

I just pulled the codes off the computer, when it runs alright it doesn't pop up anything except an EGR Insufficient Flow code, after it did its little outburst it popped up the following

211 PIP circuit failure
214 Cylinder ID circuit failure
542 Fuel pump secondary circuit failure
556 fuel pump relay circuit failure

Would it help to put the factory airbox back on and get rid of the cone filter it has now?

 

[VortecGT]

leaking injectors?

 

[ozzake]

I don't think leaky injectors because when it runs it runs fine, I've put over 200 miles on it since it began acting up, its only after you shut it off and try to restart it again that it runs bad. I tried revving it up and that didn't change anything, I can take some video of it tomorrow and post a link, that'll describe it better than I can

 

[shooff82]

If it isn't recognizing what cylinder is firing, wouldn't that be the cam sensor?

 

[ozzake]

To the best of my knowledge the Crank sensor is used to control the spark, and the cam sensor is used to control the fuel, at least thats how I learned it. Does anyone know of a good repair manual for an SHO that I could buy to help me sort this out?

 

[jmpSHO2nd]

I would say you have a bad cam sensor and/or coil.

 

[ozzake]

Tried changing the crank position sensor, luckily In deciding to do so I found out the timing belt needed done. Unluckily even after changing the crank sensor and taking it for a drive It still has the issue. While I was letting it idle in the garage it started making a strange indescribable noise from the driver side under the hood, it was after that noise that it stopped running right.

 

[ozzake]

I think the problem is solved, I changed out the ccrm and she hasn't given me a problem yet. Cross your fingers for me now I just need to stop the oil leaks and I'll be rocking this thing.