1991 sho running rich and all the above

[xxxtommyxxx16]

Hello, i just got my sho to run for the first time in close to a year. i had to do a new fuel pump and body control module/relay control module. now the car starts, idles and drives. except it is running verry rich and my tach does not work. i have an at home code reader and what codes i get back are all ignition failure or tachometer is missing or failed. the car does not over heat, everything works. gas is clean, pump is new. its just running rich. smells like an old chevy. if anyone new any tricks about this sort of problem please reply!!!

Thanks

 

[jedhead]

Your thermostat may be stuck open. posting the Codes will help.

Bob

 

[msteiny]

Tach not working means the cam sensor is shot.

 

[rubydist]

not necessarily, since he also has a 'ignition failure' code, which could be the dis - the dis can also make the tach not work.

posting the actual codes will help us help you.

 

[xxxtommyxxx16]

not necessarily, since he also has a 'ignition failure' code, which could be the dis - the dis can also make the tach not work.

posting the actual codes will help us help you.

ok. the codes are as fallows.

1. #85 cannister purge [canp] solenoid - circuit failure
or
transaxle problem 3/4 shift solenoid circuit failure
or
electronic control assembly [eca] status - adaptive lean/rich limit reached in fuel system program.

2. #14 the electronic control assembly [eca] has detected an intermittent loss of profile ignition pick up [pip] signal during last operation

3. #19 failure in electronic control assembly [eca] problems with internal voltage regulator.
or
RPM too low for EGR check during last engine run self test.
or
cylinder identification [cid] sensor input failure



these are all the codes the car gave me, just to say again to anyone eles walking in. the car, starts, it drive idles and everything, just running really rough. tach does not work

thanks to everyone

 

[ycode90]

The #'s would be fine we all got the books.

Check your grounds . Especially the PCM(it comes straight off the Batt.). The one going from the intake to firewall can be a problem also . You may try and find a DIS and Cam sensor for testing .

 

[rubydist]

since its complaining of the crank sensor and the cam sensor, it could be both of those or the dis or the pcm or wiring/ground issues. as ycode90 suggested, the best place to start is checking grounds.

if all the connectors and grounds look good, then I would replace the crank sensor and the cam sensor. if the front 60k has not been done recently, I would do all of that while I had the front of the engine apart.

 

[ycode90]

Simplest things first . That's 9of 10 problems with workin on a SHO . Overfixin stuff . OP there's some SHO guys near you that may have some test parts you could use .

 

[xxxtommyxxx16]

The #'s would be fine we all got the books.

Check your grounds . Especially the PCM(it comes straight off the Batt.). The one going from the intake to firewall can be a problem also . You may try and find a DIS and Cam sensor for testing .

so then i guess ill start checking grounds. could anyone give me a point in the right direction of to where the crank and cam sensor is? i would say id find it on my own but that already has been a challenging task.

I feel stupid asking these ???'s. i just bought this car, from the original owner and i really dont want to give up.

thanks everyone.

 

[xxxtommyxxx16]

But what about my tachometer?

 

[ycode90]

Bad Crank or Cam sensor will cause the tach to go wonky . Passenger side rear cam cover the only plug there is your Cam sensor . The crank sensor is behind the lower timing cover.You have to pull the crank pulley for this one .Search all the info you'll ever need is on this Forum.

 

[xxxtommyxxx16]

Okay. i really appreciate it everyone.

[keep][ford][alive]

 

[ycode90]

Update?

 

[xxxtommyxxx16]

Update?

not a damn thing yet. ive played with the grounds and no improvement. i really down want to dig in to this car too much. im talking car was owned buya 83 year old women, [die hard ford lover, eh?]so not a damn bolt has been loosened.

i just dont want to go fixing crap that isnt broke.

[keep][ford][alive]

 

[xxxtommyxxx16]

Update?

alright, here's what's going on. i did the TPS and no improvement. still have no tach. the strange this is when the car is starting the tach moves to 500-600 rpm showing it's starting. the tach works when the car is starting, when the car turns over the tach drops to 0 with no movement. i want to say its the firing assembly. [spark plugs, wires, ext] i also want to do o2 sensors. after that timing. ive heard rumors that timing can do this.

after i get another chance to get on here and talk to ya'll i will


Thanks

 

[ViPER1313]

The dead tach is either a bad cam-position sensor (on the rear passenger side valve cover) or your DIS (ignition control module, the gray rectangle box on the passenger side of the intake manifold) is either not firmly plugged in, poorly grounded or is somehow burnt up inside. Your "cylinder identification [cid] sensor input failure" identifies this. My money is on a bad cam position sensor.

It is weird that the tach moves while the engine is cranking but dies when running. I know that the DIS uses the cam position sensor to feed the tach while the car is running but the crank position sensor to run the coil's basic timing, and the crank position sensor MIGHT show on the tach while starting the car (even if the cam sensor is dead) but not while running.

 

[rubydist]

alright, here's what's going on. i did the TPS and no improvement. still have no tach. the strange this is when the car is starting the tach moves to 500-600 rpm showing it's starting. the tach works when the car is starting, when the car turns over the tach drops to 0 with no movement. i want to say its the firing assembly. [spark plugs, wires, ext] i also want to do o2 sensors. after that timing. ive heard rumors that timing can do this.

If you have heard rumors that bad plugs/wires can make the tach not work, the rumors are wrong. You may need plugs and wires, but that is not why the tach is wonky.

To Do:
1. check ground strap between passenger rear of intake manifold and firewall. make sure this ground is securely connected and not corroded at each end.
2. replace the cam position sensor. this is not difficult and not expensive.
3. clear codes and drive the car a day or two. check for codes and report what you get.

 

[xxxtommyxxx16]

If you have heard rumors that bad plugs/wires can make the tach not work, the rumors are wrong. You may need plugs and wires, but that is not why the tach is wonky.

To Do:
1. check ground strap between passenger rear of intake manifold and firewall. make sure this ground is securely connected and not corroded at each end.
2. replace the cam position sensor. this is not difficult and not expensive.
3. clear codes and drive the car a day or two. check for codes and report what you get.

We'll I sent her to the shop. I have talked to all sorts of people and they all told me to send it off. So I will update everyone when it's back

 

[93rev2sev]

what code was on the original relay control module? There are Ds Ms and Js and what do you have on there now?

 

[shobote]

We'll I sent her to the shop. I have talked to all sorts of people and they all told me to send it off. So I will update everyone when it's back

Hope you found a shop that has expertise on these cars, as it could get expensive with them trying replacement parts, e.g. the labor charge to install a new CPS, etc. will be pretty costly, and if that is not the problem you are back to square one.
Does the car come up to temp, or is the needle stuck on cold ?