1949 sho

[Falconvan]

My son and I got the motor pulled out of the Taurus today; what a PIA! It looked like a car bomb hit the garage by the time we got it out. Once this huge mess is cleaned up and the junk hauled off Ill pull the front clip and start sizing things up.

 

[Shovert]

I seen mine when the yard pulled mine. Like said bomb went off. I would save the reservoir tank, washer tank, power steering reservoir, AC lines if plan on having AC to adapt to plan AC unit. I would up buying them to install in the Mustang when I could have got for free. Especially save trans bolt for engine and the ones from trans using. This causes me a few trips to town searching. Maurice
Edit a thought. I ran across this a few days ago. Since thinking of changing steering. A thought a 06 or new Crown vic crossmember. Been reading using on old trucks etc. A thought, Thought I should mention. Maurice

 

[Falconvan]

Good advice, I pretty much saved everything until I can verify I don't need it. I think your right on the steering. I'm building a 48 coupe for my wife with an LS1 and had to go with a rack and pinion from a Cavalier to make it work. I'd like to eliminate the power steering but will probably still have to go with a manual rack for clearance. The original steering box takes up a lot of space.

 

[Falconvan]

Picked up a 96 Ranger 5 speed last night; heading to the boneyard for an 8.8 and a set of pedals tomorrow.

 

[rubydist]

As far as the Ranger trans, am I looking for a certain year or just any five speed that was behind a 3.0? Also, how do you like the Megasquirt? That's the build it yourself controller?

you want the Mazda M5OD-R1 transmission, not the older Mitsubishi Ranger trans. They switched to M5OD somewhere mid-90s iirc, and they are strong enough, the Mitsubishi is not.

And, be aware that somewhere around 2000 they stopped using a mechanical drive speedo and used electronic. So, the way you do the speedo will be different depending on what year of M5OD you obtain.

 

[Falconvan]

Good info; thanks. I believe I do have the Mazda one. I think it's got an electronic speedo. The car has new Dolphin gauges so I guess I will need to go back to them to see what I need to do to make the speedo and tach work.

 

[Falconvan]

Good score at the boneyard today; I got my 8.8 disc brake posi rear from a Mercury mountaineer and a pedal assembly from a Jeep Cherokee. I came home and pulled the front clip and hopefully will be able to bolt the motor and trans together next weekend for a trial fit.
The guy I got this car from, Dennis from Mentor, Ohio, did an awesome job on this car. There’s so many cool updates that I won’t have to do plus everything is super clean with all new bolts. It sure beats pulling apart a car with 50 years of rust and crud.

 

[Falconvan]

Did a little teardown on the engine tonight and pulled out the front seat and carpet to get ready to trial fit the drivetrain this weekend.

 

[Shovert]

Be careful. Look at trans side of motor. You will see a cover at a angle toward edge of bellhousing. If like my A4LD you will need to grind out part out of inside trans bellhousing to fit. Maurice
Motor side note bolt to right top.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w224/mgman75/93 mustang converiable/100_6531.jpg
Inside of bellhousing.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w224/mgman75/93 mustang converiable/100_6532.jpg

 

[Falconvan]

Will do, thanks for the pics!

 

[gmail]

Always just love the look of a SHO motor.. think im gonna clean up a spare 3.0 and turn it into a coffee table with a glass top...

 

[Falconvan]

Don't stub your toe on that baby in the middle of the night!

 

[Falconvan]

Lots done today. I got the rest of the stuff Im not using stripped off the motor. The plan is to go without A/C or PS. It looks like it will work fine, I'm just going to have to make a bracket for the alternator that will adjust the belt. The belt tensioner was part of the PS bracket so no good there. I had to grind a litte notch on the inside of the five speed bellhousing so that it would bolt up to the motor but it was a piece of cake after that. So I've got it sitting between the rails and its got a few issues to work with but nothing too drastic. It's going to need a little firewall surgery so that the motor will go back a few more inches. Right now the oil filter will hit the steering box. I may try to come up with something to relocate the filter altogether; got to do some thinking on how to accomplish that. Shifter placement looks good, np problems there. The tie rod is dead center on the oil pan so the pan may need some notching, and it looks like custom headers will have to be built. Im going to try and alter a set of factory 3.8 Mustang headers and see how that works. Fun stuff, though.

 

[Shovert]

Awesome progress. Can you convert to putting the tie rod [I assume rod from one side to the side] in way of oil pan. Maybe when go to rack and pinion move to front of center of axle. May want to leave AC in. Been mentioned on here something about its bracket not strong enough to support motor. [Please do search or someone else will chime in]
Check my photobucket I used bisquit street rod motor mounts.
On the oil filter not a problem. I install a double remote. Read that need a double because of oil flow of the SHO. Maybe this will help on that. I wanted to keep the oil cooler/warmer read there is a bypass valve in the center tube to bypass oil.
Maurice
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w224/mgman75/93 mustang converiable/shoremotefiltermount.jpg
I used brass fitting I hate galvanized fittings.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w224/mgman75/93 mustang converiable/shoremoteenginemount.jpg
If decide to remote the oil cooler/ heater I considered this. Came off a crownvic police car.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w224/mgman75/93 mustang converiable/100_167725.jpg

 

[Falconvan]

Are there any issues with deleting the oil cooler? I don't plan on racing, it's just a mild street build so I'm hoping I can remove it and just go with the oil filter adapter. I found one from Wix that another member used on his car.

As far as steering, I'd like to keep what's there as its all new stuff. I'm hoping to have the pan reworked to fit around the tie rod.

 

[Shovert]

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=111801 Check out #17 response. Has info about the check valve I mention. I know there are more knowledge people here that can help more. Maurice
Edit a thought. Use a 90 degree adapter. I consider using it but didn't suit my install. Will have to made the center mount stem. Of course could machine or weld SHO and the center and make one. Have one somewhere if think can use it. I hate using a e-bay link since they will be gone soon. So here is detail Ford 4.0 engine oil filter adaptor.
Mfg# 89TM 6884aa.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-4-0L-E...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5e21510e&vxp=mtr
Where I got the idea.
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Spring2003/4cyilinderoilfilter.htm

 

[Falconvan]

Thanks, Maurice. I found that Wix makes a remote adapter for it so I think Im going to eliminate the cooler and go with that. Do you know where to get the filter bolt for just the standard filter with no cooler?

It looks like Im only going to have to take a few inches off of the deep part of the sump at this point. It's looking better; I cut out part of the firewall to move the motor back. I'll box it in once everything is where is going to stay. Drivers side wiill definitely need some fabrication on the header. This is right where I want it to sit so now it's time to build motor and trans mounts and figure out how the oil pan will have to be cut for tie rod clearance.

 

[Shovert]

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=111801 post 17 has info. As far as I know SHO never came without the cooler so you will have to search or make something. Maurice

 

[just4SHOw]

What size belt do i need to bypass an ac compressor pulley on a 3.2.. my 94 SHO is about to be impounded if i dont get it moved.

 

[Falconvan]

Not sure, I haven't measured it yet. Just take a seamstress tape and wrap in around the path you're going to take through the pulleys. It should give you a rough idea.