134a Retrofit kit?

[SHO SPD]

Is there a retrofit kit for our cars? Does the accumulator need to be changed in a Ford? My A/C needs a lot of work, probably not even worth doing.

 

[jelloslug]

If they system has been open I would replace the dryer. If you can get the lines apart I would go ahead and replace all the o-rings also. Some people say replace the orifice valve but I did not replace it on mine and it has worked fine for 2 years now. You also need to replace at least half the oil with the new kind (the more you replace the better). The most important thing to do though is to pump it down with a vacuum pump to at least 27 in/hg for around 45 mins to an hour. After that the system needs to be able to hold vacuum on it's own. If you try and skip the vacuum step you might as well not bother converting it.

 

[rangerj]

R-12 refrigerant is now at about $225 to $250 per pound (16 ozs). R-134a is about $15 to $20 per pound. The SHO takes 36 ozs of R-12, or 30 ozs of R134a. Do the math!

Retro-fit kits (so called) usually contain "O" rings that are R-134a compatable, new "garter springs", and 8 ozs of R-134a oil (or synthetic refrigerant oil).

If the A/C system needs a charge it MUST have a leak. This is true because a refrigerant system is a "sealed" system. The only way a system should ever need a charge is if it is leaking. So, if you are going to fix the leak, whether it is an "o" ring, compressor shaft seal, or a condenser leak, then you may as well convert to R-134a.

It would be wise to replace the accumulator/dryer line and the oriface line. The condenser should be removed and taken to a radiator or A/C shop to be pressure tested for leaks, AND if it is OK have it cleaned out (flushed).

The compressor needs to be drained of the R-12 oil. Just let it drain overnight. DO NOT TRY TO FLUSH IT OR CLEAN IT. Just drain it.

Put the system back to gether with all new seals and vacuum it down to 27 to 30 inches of vacuum for a minimum of 45 minutes to an hour. It may be wise to have a shop do the vacuuming and charging. Most shops have the equipment to charge the system with nitrogen after vacuuming to get any residual moisture (if any). They can then re-vacuum and charge the system with R-134a.

As an alternative you could rent (Auto Zone?) or borrow a vacuum unit and vacuum the system yourself. After about an hour of vacuuming let the system stand for about an hour to see if it holds a vacuum, i.e. check for leaks. Then if there are no leaks put in enough R-134a to activate the low pressure switch (with the engine running) and engage the A/C clutch and compressor. Run the A/C system for about 15 minutes to 30 minutes with the minimal charge in the system (it must be enough to activate the A/C clutch and compressor). Then vacuum the system again.

The R-134a will bring out any residual moisture with it. After the vacuuming and leak tests are complete charge the system to bring it up to the proper pressures. Approximately 50psi on the low pressure side, and 250psi on the high pressure side. This usuall is accomplished with 28 to 30 ounces or R134-a.

Note: Dumping refrigerant, including R-134a, into the amosphere is illeagle, both federally and in all 50 States. Some States are more serious about it. Please do NOT imply from any of the above that I advocate or approve of doing this.

 

[jelloslug]

Another tip: Dont get cheap when you buy your R 134a. I have have 2 cans of "no name brand" R 134a rupture and spray liquid refrigerant out. I was lucky the first time and I started wearing welding gloves when handeling anything except ID or DuDont brand R 134a.

 

[SHO SPD]

Cool, thanks for the information guys.

 

[Electricat]

Another tip: Dont get cheap when you buy your R 134a. I have have 2 cans of "no name brand" R 134a rupture and spray liquid refrigerant out. I was lucky the first time and I started wearing welding gloves when handeling anything except ID or DuDont brand R 134a.

Some safety glasses are a good idea too....although frozen hands are much more likely, a flash-frozen cornea would be owwie!!!!

 

[HighSpeed]

What I find odd about refrigerant handling is, to handle most refrigerants, you need to be certified to handle it. But you can buy R134a off the shelf from Wal-Mart. Anyone notice that?

 

[MI-SHOFEAR]

This is good info

 

[SHO SPD]

What I find odd about refrigerant handling is, to handle most refrigerants, you need to be certified to handle it. But you can buy R134a off the shelf from Wal-Mart. Anyone notice that?

Report them, you can get $10,000. You need to be EPA 609 Certified. Its not hard to get certified, only a 50 question test. I got a 92% on mine.

 

[Rob94]

You need to be a licensed refrigerant technician to purchase R12. Not the case for R134a, although I see the day coming when it will be necessary. You can purchase R134a at many discount department stores, and all automotive parts stores.

 

[ohioshodude]

R-12 refrigerant is now at about $225 to $250 per pound (16 ozs).

hummmm really.... i have about 4 can's of r12 in the garage! i could make a killing if only it was legal to sell it. i got a question you guys might be able to help me with, i've got that 94 engine in the garage and i was thinking of just putting the A/C compressor in the 91. it has all new lines, including the dryer and acumulator. should i use the old pump or use the newer 94 pump?

 

[NWGRN94MTX]

Use the 94 pump. A R134 pump is better than a R12 pump, pumping R134.

hummmm really.... i have about 4 can's of r12 in the garage! i could make a killing if only it was legal to sell it. i got a question you guys might be able to help me with, i've got that 94 engine in the garage and i was thinking of just putting the A/C compressor in the 91. it has all new lines, including the dryer and acumulator. should i use the old pump or use the newer 94 pump?

 

[rangerj]

Gentlemen, and any ladies tuned in to this thread,

A Nippondenso 10P15F A/c compressor, assuming you mean the compressor when you say "pump", is exactly the same in a 1989 as it is in a 1994. The compressor does not know what refrigerant it is compressing and I doubt if it cares.

The system components are exactly the same whether R-12 or R-134a is used. The system works exactly the same no matter what refrigerant chemical compound is used, R-12 or R-134a. Granted R-134a takes a little longer to cool down than R-12, but it will maintain a center vent outlet temperature between 36 and 40 degrees F (depending on ambient temperatures) just as well as R-12. However, this is very dependent upon the condition of the system components. Therein lies the rub.