Posting pictures is super easy.
1. Goto www.imageshack.com
2. Hit "Browse" and Select a jpg from your hard drive
3. check the remove size/resolution bar
4. Hit "Start Upload"
5. Copy and past the DIRECT link into this thread like this...
[img] the link you pasted [img/]
That's it...
The new SHO has the same problem, it's way too big and ugly as sin. Thats the worst rear end on a car since the Aztec. The Fusion woulda been the perfect SHO successor.
I had a 93 ATX that ran 15.30's @ 89mph all day long easy. That was with a K&N filter as the only mod. On a hot day muggy day it would run 15.70's.
My 89 was a quicker car but in a dragrace the automatic would beat it half the time without a good launch from the 89.
I absolutely agree on the higher stall Torque Convertor. It was by far the BEST mod I did on my Z28. You skip the doggy lower rpms and get right to the meaty part of the power band. It also makes driving so much more enjoyable. It's like always being in the right gear. A high stall TC is for...
I know the extra octane make the fuel harder to burn thereby resulting in less pinging on a hot day. But will consistent use of Premium fuel PREVENT any more carbon build-up or is it simply a band-aid fix?
Bingo! That's what I ended up doing. I probably just have fatter hands than most but I unbolted the engine dampener and powersteering resevoir so I could move that shock thing out of the way. Voila, I then had room to work my left hand in from the front of the engine with my palm facing the...
How did you get that bolt off? I'm trying to replace my CID too.
The problem isn't the socket, it's REACHING the bolt and turning it. There's just not much room.
I'm going to have to go to the auto parts store and look for some sort of long handled but very low profile tool to reach down...
For whatever reason I had one caliper go bad on me which caused my pads/rotor to wear extremely fast on the passenger side rear.
I checked the other side and it looks great. Plenty of life left in the pads and rotor.
So, is it okay to just buy the caliper, rotor, and pads for the passenger...
I've been searching the archives ALOT on this subject, very helpful. Hopefully someone more knowlegable will post but since noone else has yet, here's what I gathered from my search...
1. Replacing the hardlines while the engine is out is a VERY good idea.
2. Don't bother cleaning the...
I just wanted to add that I've been using my Magnecors for about 7 years in my 89 and they work great! I was turned on to them by the Lingenfelter Performance shop that uses Magnecors exclusively so I figured I'd give them a try.
Also, I'm not sure if this is related or not but I get the...
When I dyno'd my 93 auto SHO the dyno operator (Don Mallinson) just had me get on it from idle. After the car was warmed up properly. You'll then see a stepped graph for each gear.
BTW, my 93 auto put down 177 to the wheels.
When I was doing my rear plug well seals I would have LOVED to have that much room to get the rear valve colver on and off.
Isn't the coolant temp sensor in the bottle right next to the radiator?
I highly recommend RCM. I ordered gaskets from them a few weeks ago and they came promptly. I hate mail-order to begin with so any additional day seems loooooong. They also have great prices.
I had no idea that RCM was affiliated with anyone on this board until about 2 minutes ago.
F22 Raptor - Ooooh, you're supposed to SPRAY it on! Ha! I thought you were supposed to empty the container into a pan and drop the filter into it. I'm glad you clarified that.
Bizzy - The K&N "million mile" filter does lose some of its appeal when you have to clean the darn thing. It's a pain...