FPR kit, part#'s and prices

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AREA 91

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You'd have to find someone that xeroxes our stuff ;)

And remember, I'm not only the hair club president, but I'm also a client.:laugh_ti:

I assume that I should also be running "open loop" in my green car?
 

SHO NUT

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And remember, I'm not only the hair club president, but I'm also a client.:laugh_ti:

I assume that I should also be running "open loop" in my green car?

I'd say to stick to closed loop under low load, to keep the plugs etc. clean.

I remember that I used to think that being able to force open loop, even at low load, was a holy grail. Then once I had it, I started to realize that there wasn't much benefit ... unless the tune is ABOSOLUTELY perfect, regular driving won't be smooth (hiccups etc.) and high load, well, it's already open loop all the time. :)

The only real use I can see for forcing loop all the time is to set up a lean burn tune, but then your non-lean burn parts of the tune (i.e. MAF curve and injector tuning) needs to be right on - there are no HEGO's to fine-tune the fueling under low load.

So I don't bother with it. I just run closed loop right up until the load and RPM combination that gets EGT's that concern me, and then I tune richer in open loop which happens automaticlaly once you program a Lambse under 14:1. Thus I'll see closed loop even with low boost, at, say, a cruise mph of 85 mph or so when slightly into the throttle when going up a hill.
 
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SHO_DOODmorrris

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The resistor trick barely works in the 255 and won't work in the 255 HP. I didn't try a 190 though. I once wrote a long thread about that, but I think it's gone now. The conclusion was that you need our FPR with a 255 or 255 HP pump.

The 91 harness should have a jumper where the resistor is in the early cars. Try just plugging an 89-90 resistor into the harness instead of the jumper and see if that works for you. Remember that the high/low voltage switch in the EEC is based on TPS and TPS alone. Once you are past a certain throttle position, you are at full voltage, period. That may or may not work with how you drive. It's better to trigger based on vacuum level.

where would one find this jumper?
 

Sho Amo

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Is there a way to steal this instead of becoming one of your clients?
i think you need to get kicked off your high horse. quit bein trigger happy and have some cooth. i didnt mean to disrespect him in any way and agreed to follow his advice. you cant just go around editing everyone's posts for no reason. now someone will search this thread and not see why josh's kit is better than building your own. go be a dick somewhere else.
 

Mr Anonymous

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i think you need to get kicked off your high horse. quit bein trigger happy and have some cooth. i didnt mean to disrespect him in any way and agreed to follow his advice. you cant just go around editing everyone's posts for no reason. now someone will search this thread and not see why josh's kit is better than building your own. go be a dick somewhere else.
LMAO! :laugh_ti: :laugh_ti: :laugh_ti:

You wanna try? Please be my guest. :rofl:

It was a friggen joke you *****.

I realize that at 19 you know everything and everyone, but perhaps if you had an understanding of the long history of little scum bags trying to steal Mr. Joshua's product designs and profiteer from their thievery, you'd get the joke.
 

SHO_DOODmorrris

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It should be near where the 89-90 resistor is mounted on the firewall, as I don't think the harness changed much from 90 to 91.

K, found the plug but its missing a wire... it is supposed to have a white/pink and a black/yellow wire going to it but it has just the white/pink. how should i hook this up? and we are talking about the white ceramic deal with 2 wires going into the round plug resistor right?

-M

-P.S and for the life of me i cant find the damn wires on NY wiring diagrams...
 

Mr Anonymous

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Don't steal from the SHO NUT or he'll bust a cap in yo ass! :eek:

joshandglock.jpg
 

SHO NUT

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K, found the plug but its missing a wire... it is supposed to have a white/pink and a black/yellow wire going to it but it has just the white/pink. how should i hook this up? and we are talking about the white ceramic deal with 2 wires going into the round plug resistor right?

-M

-P.S and for the life of me i cant find the damn wires on NY wiring diagrams...

Yes, the white ceramic deal with a round connector in an 89 and 90.

It's the 'shorting plug' here on the low [speed] fuel pump power feed side (pin 10) of the CCRM:

http://www.shonutperformance.com/Gen_I_CCRM.pdf

That's how the 2-speed fuel pump works - there are two seperate power feeds for the fuel pump, and one has a resistor in it (or a jumper). The EEC triggers one or the other depending on TPS.

Compare to Gen II, where there is only one power feed for the fuel pump, and the (still seperate) two fuel pump EEC inputs (LFP and HFP) are jumpered together.

http://www.shonutperformance.com/Gen_II_CCRM.pdf
 

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