ICEMAN007
New Member
Maybe some of you guys here in my home state have some advice for me? Please see below. Appreciate all the help. ICEMAN007
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hey everyone, I just bought my third SHO and after my last one, which was an automatic and delt with tranny issues all the time, it was time for another MTX. I just bought the car yesterday, a white 1993 manual 3.0 and I am having serious issues with the car when I start it up. The engine light is not on but has came on temporarily and then goes away. But in the morning, when I first start her up, she is fine at idle. But as soon as I give it a little gas, she bogs out heavily. The more I drive it after starting it up for the first time of the day, I seem to get the "bugs" out of her and the better it seems to get and the less it bogs out. BUT, no matter how long during the day I drive it, if I push the pedal down to the floor, she completely bogs out and the car starts to sparaticaly pull and the car is shifting back and forth. Due to lack of funds right now, I am looking for your guys opinions on whats going on? Otherwise I would just take it in right now and pay the $90 engine diagnostic. I mean, I suppose it could be a few things. Maybe a bad o2 sensor, bad plugs and/or wires, bad fuel injector(s), bad fuel pump or even maybe the fuel filter. If anyone could give me any insight to this major issue I am having, it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, ICEMAN007
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#2 Today, 01:12 PM
LJRuddy
Police magnet
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 603
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
First thing i would check is fuel pressure. Low pressure will cause a bogging sensation at WOT and higher rpm speeds. Also, pull the codes and let us know what errors come up. That will give us a better idea of what might be going on.
__________________
1998 Mustang GT Black/Black 5spd 119k
Steeda U/D Pullies, short shifter, 90mm Maf, 80mm T/B, PI intake, PI heads BBK L/T headers, off road x-pipe, Dynomax Turbo Bullets
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Anonymous
That limiter is there to prevent you from overheating and shredding your converter when revving it in park or neutral.
We can remove it with a tuner.
Anchorman: this is SPARTA! http://emuse.ebaumsworld.com/video/watch/19152
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#3 Today, 01:17 PM
SASHO91
SHO Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: 31 Spooner St.
Posts: 5,372
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
agreed... pull the codes. You don't need to pay someone 90 bucks to tell you whats wrong, all you need is a paper clip and a few minutes of your time.
www.shophoenixproject.com is where you will find the code retrival information as well as code descriptions...
As far as the problems go, and just going by the hip(without codes), i'd say throw on some new plugs and wires if you can (the wires that is).
__________________
Josh
See it in action....30-90(old video-now 150lbs. lighter! And a few more Ponies)
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#4 Today, 01:21 PM
ICEMAN007
SHO Member Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Land Of 10,000 Mosquitoes
Posts: 4
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ya, I wondered about the fuel pressure. I just wonder if by the more I drive it, the better it gets, if that means anything? Granted the problem doesn't completely go away. I am not so much a very good mechanic. I am not sure how to pull up the codes on this car let alone check/ fix the fuel pressure if that were the problem. Is there a cheap, easy way of getting the codes? I am sorry guys for the lack of info, I realize I am not going to get much help without giving you any codes or hard facts to go off of. If I could get any advice or help to getting any codes that come up or how to check for other possible problems, I would love to do it myself with a little guidence. And all your help is truly greatly appreciated. Thanks so much, ICEMAN007
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#5 Today, 02:03 PM
Shotime1979
SHO Technician
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: St Louis, MO
Posts: 363
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'd clean the MAF and check codes.
__________________
95 White/Mocha MTX - - Yeah its modded.
90 Titanium/Black - - DD
95 Red/Mocha MTX - - Wifes DD
95 Red/Grey ATX 69k STOCK & BEAUTIFUL (dads)
95 Silver/Grey ATX 92k Some goodies
93 Green/Mocha LX Wagon 3.2l SHO Auto
93 White/Mocha LX Wagon Soon to be 3.2l MTX
92 Silver Parts car
Soon to be: 89 Red/Grey: future unknown
Still Wanted: Blue Gen 2
www.stlsho.com
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrock
I have no idea what all you know it alls are talking about.
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#6 Today, 02:04 PM
ICEMAN007
SHO Member Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Land Of 10,000 Mosquitoes
Posts: 4
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok guys, here we go. The list of codes was so long, I had to get a new pen 'cuz I ran out of ink!!! Lol! So the codes came up like this, in the following order:
1-1-1
1-7-2
1-7-6
2-1-1
2-1-9
5-4-2
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by ICEMAN007 : Today at 02:09 PM.
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#7 Today, 02:08 PM
Brett
SHO'd up
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: duluth, mn
Posts: 374
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ive struggled with the same problem for awhile, just not as severe. Upon first startup, pulling away in first it hesitates and struggles to climb in the rpms. But after awhile its fine, still lacking power though, my atx toasted my mtx. no CEL except the occasional on for 30 seconds then off. never stayed on and only comes on once in a good while. checked my codes and got no real definitive answer. Ive replaced plugs,wires, ect sensor and all related to it (they're cheap so i went ahead). Checked fuel pressure and replaced fuel filter and all is fine. Im going to replace my o2 sensors as they're 130k old (originals), and a buddy of my cousin said a sho he was working on was really lacking in power, dropped some new o2s in it and its like night and day. hopefully it helps
__________________
Mods: 60k tune up and then some, tranny refresh, tb bypass, silencer removed, k&n, oversized cheap tires.
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#8 Today, 06:08 PM
hawkeye18
M2HB FTW!
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Portsmouth, VA
Posts: 465
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
111= all tests pass (I guess that's stored codes if you ran the KOEO test)
172=HEGO sensor circuit indicates lean. (Rear Side)
176=HEGO sensor circuit indicates lean. (Front Side)
211=PIP circuit failure. (camshaft sensor)
219=Spark timing defaulted to 10 degrees, spark output circuit open.
542=Fuel pump circuit open, EEC processor to motor ground.
Holy crap man, I don't even know where to start. Looks like your car has electrical issues. Your cam sensor is bad, your SPOUT circuit is, for some reason, open. I would start checking wiring harnesses for cut/chafed wires, looks like a few got cut. I would start at the computer and work my way out. Good luck...
You may also have a bad throttle position sensor (TPS).
__________________
USS Theodore Roosevelt, representin'!
See my F-14 Tomcat videos!
Quote:
Originally Posted by SinisterSHO
However, the best way to stop nose dive is to not stop.
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#9 Today, 07:13 PM
ICEMAN007
SHO Member Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Land Of 10,000 Mosquitoes
Posts: 4
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok, I realize there are a lot of codes that came up but do they all have something to do with the real issue at hand? My car bogs out @ wide open throttle. I couldn't imagine that all these codes together would be causing this problem. I am going to assume that it just needs two new O2 sensors. I would guess that would address and eliminate the problem at hand. I will go after the other codes, one by one as I have time and the money and I'm not sure how to prioritize the codes though. My main concern right now is getting the car to free up the drastic loss in power when pushing the pedal to the floor. Any second, third, fourth opinions would be great. Thanks for all your help! -ICEMAN007
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#10 Today, 07:20 PM
SASHO91
SHO Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: 31 Spooner St.
Posts: 5,372
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I wouldn't head out to buy O2's just yet... don't rule out a vacuum leak. The stock intake couplers are notorious for cracking, and allowing un-metered air into the motor(lean condition=no power).
I'd grab a propane torch and check for vac leaks on the intake. Just run the propane torch around the intake and listen for any noticable idle changes. This of course, with the torch not on (no flame).
That's not to say that your O2's are not on their way out though...
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hey everyone, I just bought my third SHO and after my last one, which was an automatic and delt with tranny issues all the time, it was time for another MTX. I just bought the car yesterday, a white 1993 manual 3.0 and I am having serious issues with the car when I start it up. The engine light is not on but has came on temporarily and then goes away. But in the morning, when I first start her up, she is fine at idle. But as soon as I give it a little gas, she bogs out heavily. The more I drive it after starting it up for the first time of the day, I seem to get the "bugs" out of her and the better it seems to get and the less it bogs out. BUT, no matter how long during the day I drive it, if I push the pedal down to the floor, she completely bogs out and the car starts to sparaticaly pull and the car is shifting back and forth. Due to lack of funds right now, I am looking for your guys opinions on whats going on? Otherwise I would just take it in right now and pay the $90 engine diagnostic. I mean, I suppose it could be a few things. Maybe a bad o2 sensor, bad plugs and/or wires, bad fuel injector(s), bad fuel pump or even maybe the fuel filter. If anyone could give me any insight to this major issue I am having, it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, ICEMAN007
ICEMAN007
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#2 Today, 01:12 PM
LJRuddy
Police magnet
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 603
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
First thing i would check is fuel pressure. Low pressure will cause a bogging sensation at WOT and higher rpm speeds. Also, pull the codes and let us know what errors come up. That will give us a better idea of what might be going on.
__________________
1998 Mustang GT Black/Black 5spd 119k
Steeda U/D Pullies, short shifter, 90mm Maf, 80mm T/B, PI intake, PI heads BBK L/T headers, off road x-pipe, Dynomax Turbo Bullets
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Anonymous
That limiter is there to prevent you from overheating and shredding your converter when revving it in park or neutral.
We can remove it with a tuner.
Anchorman: this is SPARTA! http://emuse.ebaumsworld.com/video/watch/19152
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#3 Today, 01:17 PM
SASHO91
SHO Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: 31 Spooner St.
Posts: 5,372
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
agreed... pull the codes. You don't need to pay someone 90 bucks to tell you whats wrong, all you need is a paper clip and a few minutes of your time.
www.shophoenixproject.com is where you will find the code retrival information as well as code descriptions...
As far as the problems go, and just going by the hip(without codes), i'd say throw on some new plugs and wires if you can (the wires that is).
__________________
Josh
See it in action....30-90(old video-now 150lbs. lighter! And a few more Ponies)
SASHO91
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#4 Today, 01:21 PM
ICEMAN007
SHO Member Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Land Of 10,000 Mosquitoes
Posts: 4
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ya, I wondered about the fuel pressure. I just wonder if by the more I drive it, the better it gets, if that means anything? Granted the problem doesn't completely go away. I am not so much a very good mechanic. I am not sure how to pull up the codes on this car let alone check/ fix the fuel pressure if that were the problem. Is there a cheap, easy way of getting the codes? I am sorry guys for the lack of info, I realize I am not going to get much help without giving you any codes or hard facts to go off of. If I could get any advice or help to getting any codes that come up or how to check for other possible problems, I would love to do it myself with a little guidence. And all your help is truly greatly appreciated. Thanks so much, ICEMAN007
ICEMAN007
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#5 Today, 02:03 PM
Shotime1979
SHO Technician
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: St Louis, MO
Posts: 363
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'd clean the MAF and check codes.
__________________
95 White/Mocha MTX - - Yeah its modded.
90 Titanium/Black - - DD
95 Red/Mocha MTX - - Wifes DD
95 Red/Grey ATX 69k STOCK & BEAUTIFUL (dads)
95 Silver/Grey ATX 92k Some goodies
93 Green/Mocha LX Wagon 3.2l SHO Auto
93 White/Mocha LX Wagon Soon to be 3.2l MTX
92 Silver Parts car
Soon to be: 89 Red/Grey: future unknown
Still Wanted: Blue Gen 2
www.stlsho.com
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrock
I have no idea what all you know it alls are talking about.
Shotime1979
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#6 Today, 02:04 PM
ICEMAN007
SHO Member Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Land Of 10,000 Mosquitoes
Posts: 4
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok guys, here we go. The list of codes was so long, I had to get a new pen 'cuz I ran out of ink!!! Lol! So the codes came up like this, in the following order:
1-1-1
1-7-2
1-7-6
2-1-1
2-1-9
5-4-2
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by ICEMAN007 : Today at 02:09 PM.
ICEMAN007
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#7 Today, 02:08 PM
Brett
SHO'd up
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: duluth, mn
Posts: 374
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ive struggled with the same problem for awhile, just not as severe. Upon first startup, pulling away in first it hesitates and struggles to climb in the rpms. But after awhile its fine, still lacking power though, my atx toasted my mtx. no CEL except the occasional on for 30 seconds then off. never stayed on and only comes on once in a good while. checked my codes and got no real definitive answer. Ive replaced plugs,wires, ect sensor and all related to it (they're cheap so i went ahead). Checked fuel pressure and replaced fuel filter and all is fine. Im going to replace my o2 sensors as they're 130k old (originals), and a buddy of my cousin said a sho he was working on was really lacking in power, dropped some new o2s in it and its like night and day. hopefully it helps
__________________
Mods: 60k tune up and then some, tranny refresh, tb bypass, silencer removed, k&n, oversized cheap tires.
Brett
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#8 Today, 06:08 PM
hawkeye18
M2HB FTW!
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Portsmouth, VA
Posts: 465
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
111= all tests pass (I guess that's stored codes if you ran the KOEO test)
172=HEGO sensor circuit indicates lean. (Rear Side)
176=HEGO sensor circuit indicates lean. (Front Side)
211=PIP circuit failure. (camshaft sensor)
219=Spark timing defaulted to 10 degrees, spark output circuit open.
542=Fuel pump circuit open, EEC processor to motor ground.
Holy crap man, I don't even know where to start. Looks like your car has electrical issues. Your cam sensor is bad, your SPOUT circuit is, for some reason, open. I would start checking wiring harnesses for cut/chafed wires, looks like a few got cut. I would start at the computer and work my way out. Good luck...
You may also have a bad throttle position sensor (TPS).
__________________
USS Theodore Roosevelt, representin'!
See my F-14 Tomcat videos!
Quote:
Originally Posted by SinisterSHO
However, the best way to stop nose dive is to not stop.
hawkeye18
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#9 Today, 07:13 PM
ICEMAN007
SHO Member Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Land Of 10,000 Mosquitoes
Posts: 4
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok, I realize there are a lot of codes that came up but do they all have something to do with the real issue at hand? My car bogs out @ wide open throttle. I couldn't imagine that all these codes together would be causing this problem. I am going to assume that it just needs two new O2 sensors. I would guess that would address and eliminate the problem at hand. I will go after the other codes, one by one as I have time and the money and I'm not sure how to prioritize the codes though. My main concern right now is getting the car to free up the drastic loss in power when pushing the pedal to the floor. Any second, third, fourth opinions would be great. Thanks for all your help! -ICEMAN007
ICEMAN007
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#10 Today, 07:20 PM
SASHO91
SHO Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: 31 Spooner St.
Posts: 5,372
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I wouldn't head out to buy O2's just yet... don't rule out a vacuum leak. The stock intake couplers are notorious for cracking, and allowing un-metered air into the motor(lean condition=no power).
I'd grab a propane torch and check for vac leaks on the intake. Just run the propane torch around the intake and listen for any noticable idle changes. This of course, with the torch not on (no flame).
That's not to say that your O2's are not on their way out though...




