CircleTrack SHO

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naval-avi8or

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Cams aren't legal anyway. The lope would give it away. Also, not that Pat must run a 2" exhaust. This means that everything must be done to get exhaust gasses out and away from the car as quickly as possible (i.e. mandrel bends and no noise reduction)

Chassis tuning and weight reduction are the best areas to make gains with the SHO. Ford/Yamaha did a good job tuning the car for all-around engine performance.

Having the inside rear tire is not so bad. It's actually a good thing, since you are most likely not spinning the inside front. That rear lifting is due to the stiff rear bar, and weak front. Be aware, though, that the SHO gets twitchy at the limit with an ideal suspension setup. Sooner or later, you'll find that out.

Not the cams that are being referenced. 3.0L cams would not cause a lope and shouldn't break the non stock rule as they are a stock cam for the SHO.
 

PAracer

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Not the cams that are being referenced. 3.0L cams would not cause a lope and shouldn't break the non stock rule as they are a stock cam for the SHO.

You are correct there. I was talking about what was said a few posts before. My message was on the screen for a while before I got around to hitting send.;)

I'm just getting tired of people suggesting things without reading up on the rules that Pat is trying to abide by. Cheating is part of the game here, but slapping a blower on the car, or installing lopey cams is just rediculus. Thinking outside the box is fine, but some of these people don't seem to understand the 'box'.
 

SASHO91

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Yeah, really. :doh:

Just a quick question....
You know if you do end up doing the "little" things to the car(swap cams, Accel Coil pack[looks stock :biggrin: ], BBB's/gasket matched/ported intake, TB bypass, Half Shafting the Throttle body, etc...) this car is gonna start to noticed more. I mean, from the video you easily pulled on those cars. After you "tweek" the car a bit more with the above list (not just those things, but you know what I mean) that car is just gonna tear them a new hole....
Do you think that is gonna draw attention in a bad way? OTH, you would only have stock parts in the car, so what could they say? Can they kick you off the track if the car is too fast for other vehicles? (that sounds weird, but ya never know)
 

38SHO

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**** yeah they can kick you out

the company I work for... Mosler Automotive

has been kicked out of races and events from 3 of its cars.. the first chrysler turbo powered Consulier... then the 383 LT-1 powered Intruders, now the current LS6-LS7 MT900's are also kicked out, I think they only race them in Europe and Asia now..........

they are too light and use advanced technologies in the chassis that nobody else even comes close to.......

their 80's consuliers are under 2,000pounds... over 250hp.... and still will probably outhandle an Elise no problem.......

that was back in the 80's....... imagine 2200 pounds and 650hp now........
 
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SASHO91

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Maybe it would be best to leave the powertrain alone (aside from a TC lockup switch/ aux. trans. cooler)... It seems you have no problem in the power department...
Allthough, a couple extra ponies never hurt... :naughty: But seriously, once you get the suspension dialed in those other cars are going to be hard pressed to catch you. (even more so than now)
 

PAracer

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Remember that the track is in business to sell tickets. People don't want to see one guy drive around a bunch of slower cars. Gets dull after a while. The promoter also wants to boost the number of entrants. The rules of this class are intended to provide inexpensive racing with good action on the track. If you win each week, then post race tech will become tougher and tougher. Post race tech is only looking for one thing... cheating.

The best way to modify a car for this type of racing is to update and backdate within model years, break welds and move parts for weight jacking and suspension angles, and use replacement parts that just happen to be a little better than stock (Magnaflow y-pipe, accel coil, Tokico struts, Moog springs).

Big time stock class racers will actually make their own outlawed parts, then age them and paint to look like the old parts. You can even add traction control just like the NASCAR boys (wait...I thought that was illegal;)).
 

38SHO

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i was chacking out brakes at a parts store and i was comparing the cobra calaper to the mustang GT calaper, and the GT calaper actually has bigger pistons then the cobra but the rotor sze is much smaller than the cobra. i believe i measured the mustang GT rotor at 10.7-10.8" which should be your stock size. which meant that calaper would bolt up to your car as is. This would give your front brakes massive power compared to stock. The only thing i'm not 100% about is if you would have to mill the calaper surface a bit to make the offset correct.

I would just upgrade to 99 SHO brakes... I think these would be best while looking somewhat like Taurus brakes..........

you start putting on cobra calipers and it starts looking fishy... not too mention he's running steelies 15", should upgrade to 16" with the 99 brakes....

and I would also add the vented 91? rotors in the rear... probably a little better for the track... still a stock SHO part...........

couldn't you put koni inserts into stock housings??? couldn't be that easy to get by the rules... lol

I still think you could use BBB's and ported intake runners... they wouldn't catch that, especially if the runners are extrude honed..............

power never hurt... power only wins races....... someone's gotta pass the leader the last lap and take the checkered... you know how that happens? they outpower you
:type:
 

CircleTrackSHO

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Alright.. there are 3 simples rules to the operation of the internal combustion engine..

Air, Fuel, Fire.. and I broke one of those rules tonight.. anycome care to guess which one ??

:banghd: :banghd: :banghd:

As the Director of the Community Racing Challenge, I wear many hats on Saturday Night.. One of my responsibilities is to make sure the CRC Drivers for that evenings event are squared away in the car and ready for their race.

Tonight's race was a "Faster Pastor" race.. and we had 5 local ministers on hand for tonight's race. There were really, really, raw... and I wanted them to get some extra laps, so during intermission, I talked the track director into letting the pastors turn a few practice laps each.. that was an extra 8 to 10 laps in the SHO.. plus 8 to 10 during practicing and qualifying before the show.. left me.. well.. out of gas. Literally..

As the green flag dropped, the SHO starved..

No excuse folks.. I done screwed the pooch tonight.. sorry.

Good News.. the car was much faster, I qualified at 20.2, my fastest time yet this season.

So/So News.. I missed on the tire pressure set up, I had too much air on the right front and the tire was sliding.. not so much a push as a slide. We also thought we had correctly adjusted the toe, but a quick toe check after the heat found that it was better.. but still not right. We adjusted that between races and on the warm up left it felt better.

Bad News.. I didn't get a long enough run to really test it. AND -- As next week is my wedding, I won't get another race in till the weekend of the 23rd.

I WANT TO THANK EVERYONE for their comments and suggestions. We put a lot of hard work into this car this week and I really was expecting to show you guys a checkered flag and I feel like I let everyone down.

Race Video is on YouTube Now :

If you'd like to see the SHO actually race.. it was one of the cars I used in my Community Racing Challenge - Faster Pastor Race.. it was really good, way too good for the capabilities of the guys driving it.. watch the video, you'll see they pass easy, then don't know what to do once they get out front. Kind of funny in a way -- the Pastors reactions after the race are priceless.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPnNX-61JVo & http://www.youtube.com/v/NtXCCFO9WPo
 
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midnightauto

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As next week is my wedding.

Congratulations!

You know the old saying.... whats hers is hers and what's yours is up for grabs.

I can already see her name painted on the top of that car:lol:
 
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38SHO

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we just like to see the enthusiasm for the SHO, win or loss!

plus someone is trying something different with it..........

why don't you try to find a manual transmission one to drive on the streets and see how you like it.........
=)
 

somedude_001

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we just like to see the enthusiasm for the SHO, win or loss!

plus someone is trying something different with it..........

why don't you try to find a manual transmission one to drive on the streets and see how you like it.........
=)

+1...
 

PAracer

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Here's one more idea you may want to consider to control your rpm issues. The SHO atx has a 3.77 ratio for it's drive sprocket/chain setup. There are several other drive ratio choices available. You could build up a spare tranny with one of these ratios. A 3.56 and also a 3.98 ratio was used in the Windstar. It will interchange into the SHO transmission. There is plenty of atx info on my web page.
 

CircleTrackSHO

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Here's one more idea you may want to consider to control your rpm issues. The SHO atx has a 3.77 ratio for it's drive sprocket/chain setup. There are several other drive ratio choices available. You could build up a spare tranny with one of these ratios. A 3.56 and also a 3.98 ratio was used in the Windstar. It will interchange into the SHO transmission. There is plenty of atx info on my web page.
And the link to your webpage is ? LOL !!

Last year I drove a Dodge Daytona in the 4 Cylinder class. The 413a Dodge Transmission has a set of transfer gears located behind a cover which is accessible with the tranny still on the car. We could change the gears right there at the track.

Can this be done on a SHO ?
 

92inPA

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Oops, I didn't realize PAracer was logged onto my computer. (He's my son.) Anyway, the link to my web site is in my sig. There is a section in the left column titled "SHO Specific Literature:". I think you'll find some good atx info there.
 

92inPA

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You can't change the sprockets with the tranny still in the car. The main problem is, when you remove the cover to access the sprockets, the accumulator springs will fall out.
 

CircleTrackSHO

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Is there anyway to calculate tire RPM based on tire sizes and gears and drive sproket ratio ?

Let me rephrase that.. I know its possible, but has it been done or does anyone know the formula needed to calculate it.

I know with stock 215/60/16, 1st gear at 7000 rpm with stock 3.77 drive sproket ratio, its 53mph; 2nd gear at 7000 rpm is 94.

Now.. I'm running 215/60/15 tires.. so how do I calculate my speed at 7000 rpm in each gear.. and how would I calculate the other tire/wheel/gear combos.
 

somedude_001

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Is there anyway to calculate tire RPM based on tire sizes and gears and drive sproket ratio ?

Let me rephrase that.. I know its possible, but has it been done or does anyone know the formula needed to calculate it.

I know with stock 215/60/16, 1st gear at 7000 rpm with stock 3.77 drive sproket ratio, its 53mph; 2nd gear at 7000 rpm is 94.

Now.. I'm running 215/60/15 tires.. so how do I calculate my speed at 7000 rpm in each gear.. and how would I calculate the other tire/wheel/gear combos.

technicaly your calculation is correct but you will not see high speeds like that in each gear because your torque converter will not lock in first ever and I have never noticed it locking in second either.

to change the gearing you have to pull the tranny,
remove tranny side pan
remove valve body


I can't seem to rember if there was something else in the way but there is 2 sprockets you slide out and replace with you new ones. soposedly you have to reprogra the transmission for the new gearing too.

total time once the tranny is out is abour 2, 2.5 hr
 

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