Coolant leak - use stop leak?

[shoblock]

Worked for 8 1/2 years in the plant that built our engines and had a parking lot full of co workers that owned these engines in their many applications.
The Taurus, Edge, Flex and Explorer as well as the Lincoln counterparts shared this water pump architecture, both turbo and nonturbo applications. Built an average of 2000 units a day. Percent of failures is very low but based on my experience, at 125,000 miles, I will change my water pump and do the timing chains and gears at the same time, leaking or not. 90,000 is not normal, but DO NOT hesitate to repair it immediately. This inexpensive part will grenade your motor. Park it until it can be repaired properly. Should then be good for another 125000
SHOBLOCK

 

[shoblock]

BTW 5w-20 non-turbo, 5w-30 turbo. No exceptions.

 

[SHOmont]

Most automakers throw in a couple pellets of Bar’s Leak during engine assembly to prevent warranty claims. It lubricates the water pump too. Wouldn’t hurt to try and buy you some time until you can get the issue resolved.

 

[Steven Grappy]

I can see that you have already received plenty of replies but figured I would throw my 2 cents in anyway. As a mechanic, I would really suggest staying away from using any type of stop leak, I can't tell you how many times I've seen stop leak cause even more problems, from clogging radiators and heater cores to melting together in low lying areas clogging passages or the build-up causing reduced flow.

 

[SHOmont]

I can see that you have already received plenty of replies but figured I would throw my 2 cents in anyway. As a mechanic, I would really suggest staying away from using any type of stop leak, I can't tell you how many times I've seen stop leak cause even more problems, from clogging radiators and heater cores to melting together in low lying areas clogging passages or the build-up causing reduced flow.

Bar’s Leaks doesn’t clog, it’s a fine powder that repairs the leak on the outside when it comes in contact with air. A fine powder won’t clog anything. Yes I’ve also experienced other brands in the last 30 years.

 

[Majestic]

Most automakers throw in a couple pellets of Bar’s Leak during engine assembly to prevent warranty claims. It lubricates the water pump too. Wouldn’t hurt to try and buy you some time until you can get the issue resolved.

No.

 

[SHOmont]

No.

YES! True story, fact.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

I can see that you have already received plenty of replies but figured I would throw my 2 cents in anyway. As a mechanic, I would really suggest staying away from using any type of stop leak, I can't tell you how many times I've seen stop leak cause even more problems, from clogging radiators and heater cores to melting together in low lying areas clogging passages or the build-up causing reduced flow.

Second this!

 

[Ta2dResqr]

No.

And this!

 

[Ta2dResqr]

YES! True story, fact.

Proof?

 

[SHOmont]

Proof?

I worked very closely in the 1990s with Bar’s Leaks and they could tell me that GM threw two pellets into each engine block. Warranty claims for coolant leaks were drastically reduced. Matter of fact, ACDelco still sells ACDelco packaged Bar’s Leaks. Part number 12378255 is an old part number that goes back many years. I confirm at the local Chevy dealer that GM did this at assembly, and created this part number as an approved solution for shop repair work. Bar’s Leaks is located just outside of Detroit and in bed with the automakers for over 30 years. They [Bar’s Leaks] were under a non-disclosure for other manufacturers from what I understood. The Bar’s Leaks website still says: https://barsleaks.com/product/radiator-stop-leak-tablets-hdc/
Quote: “In fact, this is the same product that’s been used right on the assembly line by OEM automakers around the world for 30+ years.”

 

[shoblock]

The problem is when you use too much. There is an allowable leakage spec on every engineering print and multiple stations test for leaks throughout the engine assembly process. The ‘pill’ as it’s called is meant to seal tiny porosity or minute seal leaks. Giving someone too much to add for a bearing related issue is like giving a monkey a machine gun.
SHOBLOCK

 

[SHOmont]

The problem is when you use too much. There is an allowable leakage spec on every engineering print and multiple stations test for leaks throughout the engine assembly process. The ‘pill’ as it’s called is meant to seal tiny porosity or minute seal leaks. Giving someone too much to add for a bearing related issue is like giving a monkey a machine gun.
SHOBLOCK

If their engine’s cooling system is that dirty, it doesn’t really matter if something plugs up, as it was inevitable anyway. They gotta start from scratch anyway.

 

[Pagesx5]

Thank you all for your replies. I found a local shop that does a lot of ford work and just did the water pump and timing chains on an explorer. While it is torn apart, they are also suggesting replacing the phasers, solenoids, all 3 timing belts and tensioners, spark plugs and water pump. They charge $125 an hour and the total bill is $3584 which comes with a 3 year parts and labor warranty, including replacing the entire motor if it came to that. It is a lot of money but if I can get another 100K out of it, it would be a good investment. The car has 96K miles on it and I've had zero problems with it until now. And I think I've had this water pump leak problem for possibly over a year. The light came on a while back and I just topped off the fluids and kept going. My question for this forum is what else down the road is known to be problematic? I change the oil every 7000 miles using motorcraft synthetic - 5-30. This garage said that the only thing they have seen are turbo problems but usually on older models and that if I change the oil regularly, I should be OK. I would be interested in what others on this forum have to say. Thank you in advance for taking the time to reply

 

[shoblock]

If water has been in the motor oil for a year, I would be concerned about the bearings and cylinder walls. A camera in the spark plug hole and checking the main bearings would be my approach. They can easily pop a cam bearing off if the crank mains add too much cost. All the other work you mentioned is good except the timing ‘belts’ are chains. Sorry about your luck, but you should easily get 100,000 out of the motor if done right. Oil changes at 5,000 miles minimum are a must.
SHOBLOCK

 

[luigisho]

turbos will only last so long. They are a wear item. Just look at the heat and rpms they spin at. This is a mechanically complex vehicle with all manner of possible issues. If you treat it right there are still going to be maintenance costs that you should anticipate down the road. It's just the nature of the beast. More fun cars cost a little more to keep up over the medium/long term.

 

[SeanDev]

Only issue Ive had besides water pump was a cv axle started squeaking and right around same time a wheel bearing was going out. This was around 130,000. I changed all 4 CV axles myself, and while everything was apart, 4 all new wheel bearings, shocks, struts, links, control arms, inner and outer tie rods, rotors, pads. Rear bearings are a pain in the as*. Removed spindle and beat the rears out on 2 cinder blocks. Figured if everything was coming out, just change all parts. She now has 160,000 and still going strong, original transmission and original PTU. PTU started leaking at seals at 100,000 so I only had seals replaced, dealer wanted to replace unit, but 60,000 miles later,.no issues. And I change it's fluid every 20,000. Transmission fluid changed at 50, 100, and 150,000 miles. The transmission never skips a beat. I change my oil every 3,000 miles. This is on a 2013 SEL AWD. My 2018 SHO has 40,000 miles, so when it gets up there in mileage, I'll know what's coming.

 

[Billy VK]

My local shop did the water pump, timing chains and tensioners for $600.00 labor and I supplied the parts direct from the local Ford dealer for $283.00. Oh, and a $50.00 tip. No need to pull the motor like they say.

 

[Nick G]

I am slowing losing coolant and a pressure test showed it coming from the water pump housing which my mechanic said is a bear of a job to get to. My question is, is it safe to try a stop leak product or will that make things worse. Is there a downside to keep adding coolant as needed? I have a 2015 with 94K miles on it.
Thanks in advance for your advice.

Just had mine done on my explorer 3.5 n/a. Guy did it in 9 hours. I bought the Cloy's timing chain kit with the tensioners and chain. I figured at 90k they were due. The mechanic said that the chain and tensioners showed no signs of wear, he showed me the parts. Had him change the chain and tensioners anyway. My advice is don't play Russian roulette! Even it the leak goes outside like mine did as opposed to leaking into the oil and ceasing the motor.