Engine block pitting at water pump mating surface.

[SHOMON]

Ok folks. Sorry for the novel. Right where the water pump bolts to the block. The area where the thin O-ring gasket is supposed to seal has pitted to the point where it needs more material and then sanded flat again. This is most likely what caused the last two crank sensors to fail in my 95. So JB Weld stick? Liquid Metal? Just put some blue water pump sealer on it? Slightly thicker O-ring? I searched but didn't find any info.

 

[shaldaya]

personal opinion so take it with a grain of salt,
I would use liquid metal (as you called it) to fill the pitted area, then grind and sand it flat

 

[rubydist]

I would use some good gasket sealer (the type that is used on oil pan seals) and be sure to have enough there to fill all the pitting. Then, after you put the water pump back on, let it set for at least 12 hours before you fill it with coolant (so you are sure it has cured before getting it wet.)

 

[Irish Pride]

I would use some good gasket sealer (the type that is used on oil pan seals) and be sure to have enough there to fill all the pitting. Then, after you put the water pump back on, let it set for at least 12 hours before you fill it with coolant (so you are sure it has cured before getting it wet.)

Along the same lines, fill the pitting in with RTV using your finger to smear it in there good and leaving a flat mating surface. Let that cure and then install the pump like normal. Letting it sit and cure as suggested above before refilling.

-Chad

 

[BaySHO Performance]

The RTV I recommend is Permatex The Right Stuff gasket maker.

 

[SHOMON]

Thanks everyone for the replies!

 

[SHOMON]

The RTV I recommend is Permatex The Right Stuff gasket maker.

Hey Nick. You are talking about the 90 minute black gasket maker correct??