So what did you do to your SHO today!?

[luigisho]

I just looked back after seeing your photo. pictures from when my first engine arrived that was wrong apparently this piece came off that engine so I have no idea where that engine came out of. I'm thinking a non SHO engine.
So the conclusion I came up with is there is no plug that goes there now I'm wondering if it'll still work or do I have to replace that piece

THis shit would be funny if it wasn't like 6 months into this and you didn't have your workplace with your job relocate. Holy crap. Is this the three stooges garage?

 

[FiveLeeter918]

I just looked back after seeing your photo. pictures from when my first engine arrived that was wrong apparently this piece came off that engine so I have no idea where that engine came out of. I'm thinking a non SHO engine.
So the conclusion I came up with is there is no plug that goes there now I'm wondering if it'll still work or do I have to replace that piece

If you do decide to replace it, only to keep from freaking out every time you see it and trying to figure out what came loose, the brown fitting is only $7 at Ford.

 

[Wsho]

If you do decide to replace it, only to keep from freaking out every time you see it and trying to figure out what came loose, the brown fitting is only $7 at Ford.

Only if I knew what that brown fitting was called or the part number was..

 

[6500rpm]

I just looked back after seeing your photo. pictures from when my first engine arrived that was wrong apparently this piece came off that engine so I have no idea where that engine came out of. I'm thinking a non SHO engine.
So the conclusion I came up with is there is no plug that goes there now I'm wondering if it'll still work or do I have to replace that piece

That has to just be a pressure sensor (they may call it a switch in the parts catalog). We replaced a bunch of what we refered to as a spider hose on the 4 cylinder engines a few years back on the Escape I think it was as it only came as part of the hose asm. They added them around 2016 and it was used to monitor crank case pressure. Not used on your car, it shouldn't be a problem other than looking odd.

 

[gwrabbit]

Did rear brakes over the weekend. It took me a full day on the first wheel, mainly due to me being overly cautious about the caliper piston spring + boot and the various food breaks/beer breaks. When I went to turn the piston, it would just spin but not compress. In addition to that, I also noticed the rubber boot beginning to twist. After some in depth research on my phone in 18 degree weather, I took a very small flathead and started removing a disgusting amount of dirt and gunk from the piston boot. Once that was done, I took a very small amount of silicone paste and rubbed it around the piston boot. I then gave the piston a nice push and turn, and the piston began to compress.

Once I was confident in my abilities to do rear brakes, I went ahead and did the other wheel which took about 45 minutes. The rear brakes haven't been touched since I got the car a couple of years ago (I will take my lashings later), but they haven't caused me any issues up until a month or so ago. I would get this disgusting screeching/ticking noise when applying the brakes. I would also feel the thumping of the rotors and pads coming from the back. I'm fairly certain that one of the pads wasn't even making contact with the rear rotor.

https://ibb.co/album/Vjrh4S <-- Link to pics of old rotors + pads

I also did an oil change because I was about due (around 3800 miles).

In a nutshell (for those who are curious when it comes to procedure with rear brakes)

1. Jack the car up. Jack stands underneath.
   
2. Remove wheel.
3. Blast the caliper bracket bolts with some PB blaster. I essentially wrapped the bolts I was applying PB Blaster to with a shop towel so I didn't get it on anything else besides the bolts themselves. Not sure if PB Blaster would start eating away at rubber or anything but I didn't want to take that chance.
4. Remove the caliper guide pin bolts. They weren't very difficult to remove at all and required minimal force.
5. Remove caliper guide pins. Gently twist and hold the rubber boot. If it's being stubborn, gently move the rubber boot down. DO NOT GO APE MODE ON THE RUBBER BOOTS. Store them in a safe place (I wrapped mine in a shop towel and set them on a table).
6. Pop the caliper open using either a flat head or a pry bar. This shouldn't be overly difficult. Just use a little force and it should pop off.
7. Remove break pads. They should come out with a little prying action. In my case, I had to drive a screw drive in between the pad and rotor to get it off. Probably not the best way to go about doing that but that's what worked for me.
8. Remove caliper bracket bolts. The PB blaster should have had ample time to soak and do its thing. I couldn't get my breaker bar in there, so I used a flex-head ratchet. Just be sure to wipe up any excess PB Blaster.
9. Remove old brake hardware. I took my caliper bracket, sprayed some brake cleen in the area where the pads sit, and scrubbed with a wire brush to remove any rust build up or dirt.
10. Took my caliper piston compression tool and started compressing. Initially, it didn't compress and just sat there and spun. PUSH AND TWIST. Make sure the rubber boot doesn't start folding and binding. If it does, do your best to very carefully clean the grooves in the rubber boot. Mine had a disgusting amount of gunk.
11. Once it's compressed and out of the way, now would be the time to remove your rotor. There is a ****** little torx bolt (I believe it's a T40?) and attempt to extract it. Pro tip, you won't. It will just strip and anger you. I ended up taking a 1/4 inch drill bit and drilling that thing out. Once that torx bolt is off, smack the rotor with a hammer a few times to get it loose. Took me about 3 hits per rotor. One on the left, one on the right, and one on the bottom. Remove the rotor and set it to the side.
12. Grab a bucket or cardboard, place underneath the now exposed wheel assembly hub and spray it with brake cleen. Use a wire brush to remove any buildup.
13. Grab your new rotor, spray it with brake cleen, and wipe it down. Manufacturers put this oil on them that prevents rust. In case you didn't know, Oil + Rotors isn't a great combination.
14. Put the rotor on the wheel hub. Make sure to line it up properly. Use a couple of lug nuts to secure the rotor to the hub so it doesn't move as much when you're attaching the caliper bracket.
15. Attach caliper bracket. Take your caliper bracket bolts and apply some medium strength threadlocker to them and insert them. Start tightening!
16. Put your new brake hardware on and apply a small amount of anti seize to the grooves where the pads are going to sit and on the back of the pad
17. ***DO NOT APPLY ANTI SEIZE TO THE BRAKE PAD MATERIAL***
18. Put your pads in. They will only fit one way from what I gathered.
19. Re-attach your caliper. Make sure it fits over both the pads. DO NOT FORCE IT!
20. Take your caliper guide pins (the ones that came out of the rubber boots on the caliper) and remove the existing grease on them, clean them up, and apply some silicone paste to them. Once that's done, insert them into the rubber boots and ensure that the boots do not come off. You can do this by moving the bolts back and forth. It should feel smooth and not grindy or have resistance.
21. Re-insert your caliper guide pin bolts. I didn't do anything special to these guys except cleaning them with a wire brush.
22. Should be obvious but, remove your lug nuts that you put on the rotor. Re-attach your wheel, lower the car, and give the break pedal a few good pushes. My pedals felt squishy for about the first 30-45 seconds but firmed up shortly after.

There are probably a few steps that could be switched around but these are the general steps I took. Hopefully this helps. While it was frustrating, a little scary, and a pain in the ass, it was so worth it.

 

[Wsho]

Build update:: well today I went to the shop to finish putting the front end on the car last week I had to install all the plumbing for the turbo setup an intercooler bolt on. Today after installing the front clip drove it around a bit it was pretty good but if I step on it a little I can hear the air sucking through the air filters I give it a little more gas then I hear a whistling noise. Don't know what that means good or bad.?
Should get the car back tomorrow they got to finish front alignment install Tire well covers and bottom plastic covers under the car.

 

[GotGrip?]

Build update:: well today I went to the shop to finish putting the front end on the car last week I had to install all the plumbing for the turbo setup an intercooler bolt on. Today after installing the front clip drove it around a bit it was pretty good but if I step on it a little I can hear the air sucking through the air filters I give it a little more gas then I hear a whistling noise. Don't know what that means good or bad.?
Should get the car back tomorrow they got to finish front alignment install Tire well covers and bottom plastic covers under the car.
View attachment 17264

Looks good all cleaned up, just curious, did you ever ditch that tub/fin intercooler or did you leave it on?

 

[Kevin81]

Build update:: well today I went to the shop to finish putting the front end on the car last week I had to install all the plumbing for the turbo setup an intercooler bolt on. Today after installing the front clip drove it around a bit it was pretty good but if I step on it a little I can hear the air sucking through the air filters I give it a little more gas then I hear a whistling noise. Don't know what that means good or bad.?
Should get the car back tomorrow they got to finish front alignment install Tire well covers and bottom plastic covers under the car.
View attachment 17264

I'd **** that.

 

[802SHO]

Build update:: well today I went to the shop to finish putting the front end on the car last week I had to install all the plumbing for the turbo setup an intercooler bolt on. Today after installing the front clip drove it around a bit it was pretty good but if I step on it a little I can hear the air sucking through the air filters I give it a little more gas then I hear a whistling noise. Don't know what that means good or bad.?
Should get the car back tomorrow they got to finish front alignment install Tire well covers and bottom plastic covers under the car.
View attachment 17264

Looks great buddy

 

[Wsho]

Looks good all cleaned up, just curious, did you ever ditch that tub/fin intercooler or did you leave it on?

Did I install the intercooler on the outside. I think that's the question you're asking and the answer is yes.
The position and angle of the tubes coming out of the intercooler did not require shaving down the back of the headlights they fit right in and about a half inch to spare.

 

[GotGrip?]

Did I install the intercooler on the outside. I think that's the question you're asking and the answer is yes.
The position and angle of the tubes coming out of the intercooler did not require shaving down the back of the headlights they fit right in and about a half inch to spare.
View attachment 17269

No sir, the question I was asking was if you left in the Tub and Fin intercooler since they are terrible at cooling. The log I sent brad when I used a core similar to whats in your car on my first try the IAT2's were higher than the stock intercooler. I was trying to see if you ended up going with a bar/plate style since they don't heatsoak nearly as fast and are far more efficient at cooling, at least with the logs I've seen on my own vehicle. Good job finding a spot on the core support to sneak though, I was a little more hesitant to cut through a the structure of my car since I work with insurance companies all day I have a good grasp on what is within the realm of "acceptable".

 

[Wsho]

No sir, the question I was asking was if you left in the Tub and Fin intercooler since they are terrible at cooling. The log I sent brad when I used a core similar to whats in your car on my first try the IAT2's were higher than the stock intercooler. I was trying to see if you ended up going with a bar/plate style since they don't heatsoak nearly as fast and are far more efficient at cooling, at least with the logs I've seen on my own vehicle. Good job finding a spot on the core support to sneak though, I was a little more hesitant to cut through a the structure of my car since I work with insurance companies all day I have a good grasp on what is within the realm of "acceptable".

The only thing on the car is the radiator followed by the AC condenser then on the bottom half is the transmission cooler then above that on top of the bumper support is the intercooler.
I have a spot for the oil cooler but I'll put that in later down the road brackets are already there to install oil cooler.

 

[Wsho]

So after I drove the car around and then home I parked it 2 minutes later battery is dead call the mechanic shop and I mention that the battery is dead and the battery shouldn't Been sitting on the concrete floor for 4 months. I could tell he was getting mad and asked what do you want me to do about it and I told him to get me another battery you guys took it out of my car put it on the concrete floor with the rest of the parts and sat there for 4 months he didn't like it but he said he will see what he can do.
Like I'm supposed to go out and buy a new brand new battery because they stuck it on the ******* concrete for for 4 months I'm not a mechanic and I know not to do that..
Here's some pictures with the engine cover on..

 

[GotGrip?]

The only thing on the car is the radiator followed by the AC condenser then on the bottom half is the transmission cooler then above that on top of the bumper support is the intercooler.
I have a spot for the oil cooler but I'll put that in later down the road brackets are already there to install oil cooler.

I totally understand, what I'm saying is the style of IC you bought is not good at cooling. You have a tube and fin style intercooler, look into bar/plate.

 

[Nova]

So after I drove the car around and then home I parked it 2 minutes later battery is dead call the mechanic shop and I mention that the battery is dead and the battery shouldn't Been sitting on the concrete floor for 4 months. I could tell he was getting mad and asked what do you want me to do about it and I told him to get me another battery you guys took it out of my car put it on the concrete floor with the rest of the parts and sat there for 4 months he didn't like it but he said he will see what he can do.
Like I'm supposed to go out and buy a new brand new battery because they stuck it on the ******* concrete for for 4 months I'm not a mechanic and I know not to do that..
Here's some pictures with the engine cover on..

View attachment 17295 View attachment 17296 View attachment 17297

Looks like you need to get new hood decals in red to match your theme.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[Kevin81]

So after I drove the car around and then home I parked it 2 minutes later battery is dead call the mechanic shop and I mention that the battery is dead and the battery shouldn't Been sitting on the concrete floor for 4 months. I could tell he was getting mad and asked what do you want me to do about it and I told him to get me another battery you guys took it out of my car put it on the concrete floor with the rest of the parts and sat there for 4 months he didn't like it but he said he will see what he can do.
Like I'm supposed to go out and buy a new brand new battery because they stuck it on the ******* concrete for for 4 months I'm not a mechanic and I know not to do that..
Here's some pictures with the engine cover on..

View attachment 17295 View attachment 17296 View attachment 17297

They should have hooked it up to a battery tender while the car sat.

Battery might just need a good charge...maybe no dead cells?

 

[Wsho]

Looks like you need to get new hood decals in red to match your theme.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

Caliper covers cover that department LOL

 

[Wsho]

They should have hooked it up to a battery tender while the car sat.

Battery might just need a good charge...maybe no dead cells?

The shop said they charge it up when it was put back in the car.. I'll put it on the charger tomorrow and see if it's any good..

 

[76FoMoCo]

Shos and marginal batteries...nfg

 

[Wizard of Ahhhs]

Added a little more America under the hood.