Plans this summer, long term goals
- Thread starter Kevin81
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The t stat was pretty strait forward. Its in an odd place, I lost...maybe a cup of fluid?
Got it all put back together, installed the tune...
It pulls better now, but to be honest, I don't think I picked up that much power. Shifts way more agresively now, and it deff pulls harder, just not by a lot.
Only way to know, I guess, is to line up with someone. Mustang, charger, sti/evo, the like. And see what happens!
Got it all put back together, installed the tune...
It pulls better now, but to be honest, I don't think I picked up that much power. Shifts way more agresively now, and it deff pulls harder, just not by a lot.
Only way to know, I guess, is to line up with someone. Mustang, charger, sti/evo, the like. And see what happens!
High on Ethanol
Just Ain't Care
Add some good octane booster.
What's OAR?What is your OAR at? It will pull much harder sitting at -0.96 than it will at -0.08 or +0.33 <-- that's the voice of experience talking right there.
Michigan-SHO
SHO Member
It is Octane Adjustment Ratio
From Cobb tuning, not available for us but good info nonetheless.
From the factory, Ford typically designs the base calibration to allow use of 87+ octane fuel and recommends using 91+ octane fuel for optimal power. They can do this by means of a dynamic multiplier that allows for adjustment of each of these targeting and limiting strategies which we call the “OAR” (Octane Adjust Ratio). The OAR starts life at a value of 0.0 and is allowed to learn in two directions. When fuel quality and knock sensor feedback are optimal, the OAR will adjust towards -1.0. When these are sub-optimal, the OAR will adjust towards +1.0. I bet you’re wondering why -1.0 is better?
Well for one, since this value is a multiplier and not an offset the ECU code can be optimized to use a single table comprised of negative values to handle the spectrum of operating conditions. Take ignition timing corrections for example; with an OAR at -1.0, multiplying against a negative becomes positive which is then added as positive correction to ignition timing. However, when conditions are sub-par a +1.0 OAR will result in negative correction to ignition timing.
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From my understanding (and this might be over simplifying it) if you have crap gas or low octane, it pulls power so the motor doesn't go boom, if you are running the GH AO I always splashed in 1-2 gallons of e85 to make sure OAR stayed at -0.96 and the butt dyno said it pulled harder.
Yeah. No such luck. Closest E85 to me is 100 miles away. 93 octane is what I got.
High on Ethanol
Just Ain't Care
Add methanol then. No excuses.
Possibly. I'm not interested in running full duck, wondering when the trans goes. I'd rather be short a few ponies, but have peace of mind when I beat on it.
High on Ethanol
Just Ain't Care
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
I am running full send on my trans. It still has a warranty.
High on Ethanol
Just Ain't Care
I found that even between stations the quality of 93 can be vastly different, enough that my OAR would tank, and it didn't pull as hard as when I had a better OAR. You should be able to see that on your SCT, most (if not all) tuners put it in the log, so that they can see what your OAR is at too.
I'll check. I work for BJs Wholesale, so that's where I get my gas. So its consistent.
High on Ethanol
Just Ain't Care
Sheetz by far has the best e85 in my experience 83-85% every time across 20 different locations in 4 states.
How do you test it? By filling up and seeing what the car says?
High on Ethanol
Just Ain't Care
Inferred value, also tested a few for comparison.
By checking OAR?
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