Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
That is correct, I was reading that you have to have your tuner deal with it by shutting off that sensor or ignoring it or somethingI thought there was a tread on here about not being able to use the dual cans on the 13+ SHO's due to a sensor on the front pcv system.
Hmmm, weird. I have the UPR catch can setup as well and I thought I bought it with all the bells and whistle, but mine connects differently, per their instructions. My clean side is identical (IM to drivers side port on CC), dirty side is identical (rear PCV to top of CC), but the WOT side is different. I had to tap port I had to make right after the air filter (I tapped underneath the tube of the AirAid filter) a connection they gave me that goes from there to the passenger side of the CC.
![]()
![]()
But I still have the OEM front PCV line that goes to the connection new the front OEM BOV port as well as the OEM oil cap.
![]()
Am I missing something? Do I not have the "dual valve" version?
I thought there was a thread on here about not being able to use the dual cans on the 13+ SHO's due to a sensor on the front pcv system.
I didn't have too. I literally plugged and played it. No tuner modification needed. It was my 2nd mod. I didnt tune my car for another 3 months after.
You don't have the CSS. Also you had to tap your intake tube because it is aftermarket.
Yeah they originally sent this large 5 or 6" diameter silicon section that had that connector in it. After I called them they said since I had aftermarket, Id just have to take out the connector and find a way to make it work. So I did, LOL.
But as far as the CSS is concerned, you think I need it? They don't advertise the CSS for my model so I'm wondering if there is some issue with having it on my application
the 15+ kit is different because of the pcv flow sensor, you can't just remove it for the 10-14 kit. We do offer tuning to remove that sensor via the tune if you want to run the CSS, but otherwise it just goes into the port on the intake.
This is what the extra bung option is for on the EPP intakes. if you have a 15+ and the EPP intake there is nowhere to tap that fitting to, so Mike offers it as an add on.
The more I read the more I believe the 2013 was the best year for the SHO...
The more I read the more I believe the 2013 was the best year for the SHO...
Since I’m also contemplating a CC, it’d be great if others could post about non-UPR choices.
I’ve seen a few others in multiple other posts talk about ebay/other CCs adapted.
half the price, half the protection honestly...
I love everything Radium puts out lol...I'm eyeballing their brushless surge tank setups....but so expensive lol...I like the mishimoto. Ive seen a few of them installed. Personally I don't use one but I know a lot of coworkers that do on their Mustangs.
If money is no object....radium competition can for each side.
Gee, shocking response from a UPR Vendor.... That may work with the newbs but I’m not a newb.
Catch Cans are nothing but managing vapors. There is no rocket science but you must understand whats under positive and negative pressure, when.
Agreed 100%.I'm referring to the JLT comparison most use. I already spoke in detail to the benefits of the UPR earlier, didn't feel the need to again.
There are plenty of "universal" kits out there that can do the job but once you add check valves, baffling if not there, get proper hoses and fittings, etc., you arent off much from the oem fit and finish of the UPR kit.
It really pays to have proper engineering, to know the kit you spent time and money on is actually going to benefit you and not blow your dipstick out of the block when you pressurize the crank.
I'm not here make a sell Im here to educate and benefit the community as a whole. But you also have to realize that you have a $50k car and there are areas you don't want to skimp in quality.