Plans this summer, long term goals

[Kevin81]

So, this summer, all work will be about maintenance and reliability...and looks, lol.

1. Tap a drain plug into PTU. Still on the fence on this. If it were an iron cover, itd be one thing. Aluminum is finicky. Still haven't changed the gear oil, when the red line oil showed up, it was leaking, so I sent it back.

2. Thermal coat the down pipe.

3. POR15 the accessible components on the underside of the car.

4. Oil catch can.

5. Tranny moint.

6. Paint the brake calipers. They're actually rusting a bit, so this is more than just cosmetic.

My end goal for this car is to crisp up the handling, firmer suspension and wider wheels/tires. Lower it about 1.5 inches, improve its stance. Not a fan of the ass up look. Around 500 hp, so, 430 hp to the wheels? I'm honestly unsure about that, just yet. Not interested in replacing all the drive train to handle too much power. Not looking to try to lose weight, either. I'm not looking to change the character of this car, just make it be the best it can be. A more refined and powerful version of itself.

 

[FiveLeeter918]

sounds like a great plan!

I've done pretty much all that you've talked about, and an estimated 430 (based on Virtual Dyno, no AWD dynos near me) wasn't too hard to hit - downpipes, dual intake, intercooler and E30 got me there pretty easily with a good tune that didn't sacrifice reliability.

 

[SM105K]

Sounds like a solid plain. I would put the CC on sooner than later.

 

[Kevin81]

Sounds like a solid plain. I would put the CC on sooner than later.

Car is currently parked, daily driving the truck. The catch can is 300, give or take. I've gotta wait till towards the end of summer to make that purchase...I can tell the wife's patience and tolerance dropping, lol. In the mean time, I intend to drive this car to work 1 or 2 times per week, tops. That's about...120 miles per week. Not driving it at all till my next shipment of gear oil comes in. After seeing the motor oil, the PTU scares me a little.

 

[SM105K]

Car is currently parked, daily driving the truck. The catch can is 300, give or take. I've gotta wait till towards the end of summer to make that purchase...I can tell the wife's patience and tolerance dropping, lol. In the mean time, I intend to drive this car to work 1 or 2 times per week, tops. That's about...120 miles per week. Not driving it at all till my next shipment of gear oil comes in. After seeing the motor oil, the PTU scares me a little.

Makes sense. Just keep the CC in the front of your mind. It is important. I would say it is more important then coating your DP's honestly.

 

[Kevin81]

So...dumb question...e30 is 30% ethanol fuel, correct? Where do I find this? Most gas in CT is 15% ethanol. I have ready access to 87, 93, and 97 octane. Its always been my understanding that ethanol is the devil, but that's the old school in me, I guess. Forced induction cars can do more with higher ethanol content fuels?

 

[SM105K]

So...dumb question...e30 is 30% ethanol fuel, correct? Where do I find this? Most gas in CT is 15% ethanol. I have ready access to 87, 93, and 97 octane. Its always been my understanding that ethanol is the devil, but that's the old school in me, I guess. Forced induction cars can do more with higher ethanol content fuels?

You have to find pump E85 and mix it with 93 octane. There are a couple of calculators out there. I know Brad (AJPTurbo) supplies one with each of his E30 specific tunes.

 

[Kevin81]

So, I have changed the PTU and RDU oil. I'm probably going to change the PTU oil again after 1,000 miles or, I feel I didn't get all of the old Crap out. Today, drain the trans and paint the calipers and down pipe.


Then...convince the wife that JUST 300 more for a catch can should do it, lol!

 

[luigisho]

Then...convince the wife that JUST 300 more for a catch can should do it, lol!

Ha! If you have to talk her into a catch can, wait until she see's the price of an upgraded high pressure fuel pump.

 

[Kevin81]

Ha! If you have to talk her into a catch can, wait until she see's the price of an upgraded high pressure fuel pump.

Well, generally, I give myself a 2,000 budget per year for project car stuff. Sometimes less or more, based on my bonus.

But this year, I already spent 12k buying the car, and after seeing how nice it is, she's kinda ******, lol.

 

[Kevin81]

So after some research...there is no E85 in my state, lovely, sunny CT. Closest station to me is 35 miles away. So the e30 tune isn't going to be in the cards for me.

Question : Is there a benefit of running a tune for 97 octane vs 93? I know the a N/A engine, the answer is a resounding yes. But I'm not sure about a turbo motor.

 

[Iqoniq]

Well, they write tunes for 91/93 versus 87, so I'd assume the answer would be yes.

 

[Iqoniq]

Also, I decided to buy this catch can.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H8BSTHB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll use plumbing tape on the threads as increased insurance on the seal, and I'll probably epoxy the plastic fittings, or find some metal ones at Home Depot, which can be had for the 1-2 dollar range. I'll have to fab a bracket of some sort, so another 2-5 bucks, I assume, and I'll need some fuel or vacuum hose, which couldn't be more than 3-4 bucks.

Well under that 300 dollar range, so your wife, like mine, should let you slide until next year, when you, and I, go ham.

 

[luigisho]

Is there a tune offered for 97? How much more is that a gallon vs 93? I'm jealous that you have regular pumps with that octane. Unless you live near a track.

 

[Kevin81]

Is there a tune offered for 97? How much more is that a gallon vs 93? I'm jealous that you have regular pumps with that octane. Unless you live near a track.

Its the super premium at the Shell station down the street. No drag strips in CT, Closest one is englishtown, nj. Only track we have is Limerock, which is a 2 hour drive from where I live.

 

[Kevin81]

Also, I decided to buy this catch can.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H8BSTHB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll use plumbing tape on the threads as increased insurance on the seal, and I'll probably epoxy the plastic fittings, or find some metal ones at Home Depot, which can be had for the 1-2 dollar range. I'll have to fab a bracket of some sort, so another 2-5 bucks, I assume, and I'll need some fuel or vacuum hose, which couldn't be more than 3-4 bucks.

Well under that 300 dollar range, so your wife, like mine, should let you slide until next year, when you, and I, go ham.

I'm not even smart enough to know which hose goes where...when you do this, do some pics and a quick write up, and I might follow suit.

 

[Iqoniq]

I'm pretty sure you're under-crediting yourself, but yeah, I'd planned to.

 

[Kevin81]

Ok, did the suspension, today. New H and R springs, new shocks/struts. Wasn't too Awefully, but Jesus Christ on a crutch, it was hot today. I probably drank and sweated 2 gallons of water. And I was in the shade for most of it. Those of you looking to do this, have a friend help. An extra set of hands goes a long way...with my buddy, we knocked this out in about 5 hours, give or take.

 

[Kevin81]

New vs old, went with Monroe magnum shocks, I wanted a compromise between firmness and turn in response, and ride harshness.

 

[Kevin81]

Beware! On the stock shocks...that nut is welded on. So, you can only loosen it from the bolt end, which I tend to never do. Replacing a nut is generally much easier than replacing a specific size/length/thread count bolt...s-s-superior ford engineering! Honestly, the new HRs for the rear don't look much different than the stock.,,the front springs had a night and day difference...