1992 SHO water pump installation questions

[Bryan]

So my 1992 SHO is going to need the water pump changed (some antifreeze is starting to drip out of the weep hole). My question is how tough of a job is this, and what is my best way to tackle it? From underneath? Or through the wheel well? Or above? I am going to be changing the power steering belt too as it squeals a bit. So might as well do the pump at the same time.

 

[rubydist]

through the wheel well. while you are in there, you might want to also change the timing belt if its not fairly new, and if you could find a crank sensor change that too.

its not particularly difficult. make sure you get the o-rings for the crossover tube, as they will leak if you don't change them when you change the water pump.

 

[Irish Pride]

Plan on changing the Timing belt and lower Radiator hose at the very least. I would recommend changing the Cam seals and Crank seal while you are at it too. Perfect time to do it all. The water pump is very straight forward. Take your time and make notes of how things come off. Very easy to get confused when trying to put the tensioners and covers back on.

 

[Bryan]

So according to the maintenance log that came with the car the timing belt was changed at 70k. Though I guess you could say take that log with a grain of salt. However I will mention it’s a very in depth log that has stuff in it like fuel costs and amounts. Various mainentaince jobs done along with a whole bunch of SHO memorabilia including SHO registry magizines and something called The Goody Book (whatever that is). Here is some photos of them. I am only showing this in the sense it adds some credibility to the information in the book. In any case I’ll check all that you guys mentioned.

 

[luigisho]

How many miles you have on the replacement belt? It's a rule of thumb to tackle everything while it's exposed but if it's low let it go. Look around and see what else it needs while you're in there. Look at the plastic timing cover and see how it comes off. It is 3 pieces and they don't come off like you would guess and they are old plastic so they might be easy to break.

 

[Bryan]

How many miles you have on the replacement belt? It's a rule of thumb to tackle everything while it's exposed but if it's low let it go. Look around and see what else it needs while you're in there. Look at the plastic timing cover and see how it comes off. It is 3 pieces and they don't come off like you would guess and they are old plastic so they might be easy to break.

Well the log says the belt was replaced at 77k miles. Car now has 117. I will defiantly check and see what needs replaced. I got the car when it had 107. That was three years ago. I really don't drive it anymore since I have a third vehicle I mainly use for day to day transportation. The T-Bird and SHO are just my sunny day drivers.

 

[rubydist]

The timing belt is 10 years old - I would replace it while I was doing the other stuff we discussed above.

 

[Irish Pride]

That log book is awesome. I wish I was that meticulous with my notes.

I have all the SHO Registry books except for that Goody Book. I've never seen that before.

 

[Bryan]

The timing belt is 10 years old - I would replace it while I was doing the other stuff we discussed above.

Okay I'll will pick one up. This is going to be a spring project replacing this stuff so the car will be down for awhile. Anything else I should look at while I am in there? I heard some say crank sensor, but I also hear they are almost impossible to find.

 

[Irish Pride]

Rod Bearings. Is there anything about the Rod Bearings being replaced at any point? In my opinion they should be done every 75K or so. Just for good measure.

 

[Bryan]

Rod Bearings. Is there anything about the Rod Bearings being replaced at any point? In my opinion they should be done every 75K or so. Just for good measure.

The only other major thing I see is the clutch was replaced some time ago. Thats really it, and can I really do rod bearings with the engine still in the car?

 

[luigisho]

Yes. there should be a write up on that somewhere as it's not that uncommon. It's a pain but since it's a 3rd car you don't have to rush it. Just give the oil enough time to drip out after you remove the oil pan so it doesn't go in your eyes and everywhere else. Tape a bag or something over the area to keep debris out and let it drip for hours or a day.

 

[zoomlater]

I thought rod bearing were around 150K if the oil was changed on a regular basis

 

[rubydist]

Of course it will vary with use, but I was fine w/ going around 150k on the rod bearings.

 

[turbo79]

Okay I'll will pick one up. This is going to be a spring project replacing this stuff so the car will be down for awhile. Anything else I should look at while I am in there? I heard some say crank sensor, but I also hear they are almost impossible to find.

Yes, the crank pos sensors are becoming rare. That's why you really do not want to put any more miles on the car until you replace the water pump, as the dripping from the weep hole will begin to fall on that CPS, and ruin it. A common SHO Yamaha V6 problem once there are enough miles on a water pump.

 

[SHOCH]

Was told rod bearings last way longer on ATX cuz some people are lugging the engine with low rpm and that is the killer, rev that thing up like it wants to.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Given the meticulous records and the fact that it came with Goodie books (I have both of them), the previous owner was a SHO fan. You might have the SHO Registry magazine with the pic on the left of this post on one of the covers. No reason to suppose that the records aren't accurate. I usually replace timing belts around 100K and rod bearings around 150-200K.

Use the starter to bump the crankshaft pulley bolt loose, disconnecting the front DIS connector so that the engine doesn't start. Remove the end tank with the DIS module. Change all the seals while you are in there. You will need a 2 jaw puller to get the crankshaft pulley off, and a thick metal plate with a couple of holes in it to get the timing belt crankshaft sprocket off, using timing belt cover bolts. Be aware that there is a 10mm bolt at the rear of the middle cover that's hidden from view.

I suggest buying a whole pump rather than the front half only. If you do, you will also have to buy a Felpro
ES70425 water pump gasket kit as the front half doesn't come with the WP to block O ring, and it's more work putting the two halves together.. Change the three cam seals and front crank seal while in there unless the records show low mileage on them, which may be the case given the number of miles on the TB.

You will need access through the wheel well as well as from on top. No need to remove the entire wheel well liner: simply remove the three retaining pins from it in front of the wheel and peel back the front half only. Hold it out of the way with bungee cord. Parts I use:

Water Pump (Gates) 43087
Front Crankshaft Seal (National ) 710220
Cam seal (3 National) 1213N

 

[Bryan]

Given the meticulous records and the fact that it came with Goodie books (I have both of them), the previous owner was a SHO fan. You might have the SHO Registry magazine with the pic on the left of this post on one of the covers. No reason to suppose that the records aren't accurate. I usually replace timing belts around 100K and rod bearings around 150-200K.

Use the starter to bump the crankshaft pulley bolt loose, disconnecting the front DIS connector so that the engine doesn't start. Remove the end tank with the DIS module. Change all the seals while you are in there. You will need a 2 jaw puller to get the crankshaft pulley off, and a thick metal plate with a couple of holes in it to get the timing belt crankshaft sprocket off, using timing belt cover bolts. Be aware that there is a 10mm bolt at the rear of the middle cover that's hidden from view.

I suggest buying a whole pump rather than the front half only. If you do, you will also have to buy a Felpro
ES70425 water pump gasket kit as the front half doesn't come with the WP to block O ring, and it's more work putting the two halves together.. Change the three cam seals and front crank seal while in there unless the records show low mileage on them, which may be the case given the number of miles on the TB.

You will need access through the wheel well as well as from on top. No need to remove the entire wheel well liner: simply remove the three retaining pins from it in front of the wheel and peel back the front half only. Hold it out of the way with bungee cord. Parts I use:

Water Pump (Gates) 43087
Front Crankshaft Seal (National ) 710220
Cam seal (3 National) 1213N

Hey thanks a lot for the information. All of you! I will as suggested by another to let the car sit for now and start collecting the parts when I begin to tear her down. Also... do you really need to starter bump the crank bolt? I do have a decent electric impact that I usually use to break lug nuts free with. I am probably aiming for early spring or when the ground around where I live isn’t mush or frozen as hard as concrete. Also this car has gone through a lot so far being the previous owner also struck a deer with it. Kind of a revival I had to do considering I had to tow it home on a trailer as it was undrivable. Shame too really. The previous owner just had it repainted right before the “deer option” was added.

 

[luigisho]

I would starter bump it first. Not sure if electric will be strong enough. You can always use enough extentions to clear the fender and get a cheater pipe over a rachet or breaker bar and get it to go.

 

[rubydist]

The electric impact will usually not get the crank bolt loosened.