SM105K's SHO BIBLE/BUILDS/LIFE

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SM105K

Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
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I installed my H&R Drop springs this weekend. That was fun. Couple of take aways. I have a 13 so the front is easier then the 10-12.

I had Pepboys swap the front springs. They charged me $52 for the spring swap, and then $89.99 for the alignment. I bought the springs from stage 3 for $262 including shipping. So for $403 and my labor, the springs are in the car.

On the front, the two large nut and bolts that hold the strut to the brake assembly are splined. Crack the nut, and bring it flush with the end of the bolt. Then smack the crap out of it with a hammer. I didn't realize this and my trusty breaker bar became an casualty.

The rears are really easy. I removed the wheels and tires, and just dropped the sway bar links, and the removed the large bolt that connects the "A" arm into the rear cradle. Use a jack to lower the "A" arm and remove the spring. Really easy. Reverse the steps to install H&R springs. I actually got the rear camber bolts pretty square on with the alignment. Even the tech was like, you did that?

All in all it was a pretty easy install, but it was brutal on my knees. I am terrible at documenting things with pictures, but her are the some pictures. When the car settles I will snap some more. I have a stock picture, a leveled rear pic (I cut my PP Springs), and I will have my H&R springs picture soon.

I have already noticed better handling and a different ride. I can't wait until she settles.

HR Springs Front Taken Apart 1 Splined Opps Stock Strut Rear Installed
 
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luigisho

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For $50 that front install is a no brainer. When motor oil prices popped that's when I started getting the dealer to change it.
 

SM105K

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For $50 that front install is a no brainer. When motor oil prices popped that's when I started getting the dealer to change it.

Yeah, I wanted nothing to do with the janky spring compressors I was going to use. $50 for my safety and the safety of the other things in my garage were a no brainer.
 

shoblock

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I installed my H&R Drop springs this weekend. That was fun. Couple of take aways. I have a 13 so the front is easier then the 10-12.

I had Pepboys swap the front springs. They charged me $52 for the spring swap, and then $89.99 for the alignment. I bought the springs from stage 3 for $262 including shipping. So for $403 and my labor, the springs are in the car.

On the front, the two large nut and bolts that hold the strut to the brake assembly are splined. Crack the nut, and bring it flush with the end of the bolt. Then smack the crap out of it with a hammer. I didn't realize this and my trusty breaker bar became an casualty.

The rears are really easy. I removed the wheels and tires, and just dropped the sway bar links, and the removed the large bolt that connects the "A" arm into the rear cradle. Use a jack to lower the "A" arm and remove the spring. Really easy. Reverse the steps to install H&R springs. I actually got the rear camber bolts pretty square on with the alignment. Even the tech was like, you did that?

All in all it was a pretty easy install, but it was brutal on my knees. I am terrible at documenting things with pictures, but her are the some pictures. When the car settles I will snap some more. I have a stock picture, a leveled rear pic (I cut my PP Springs), and I will have my H&R springs picture soon.

I have already noticed better handling and a different ride. I can't wait until she settles.

View attachment 8410 View attachment 8411 View attachment 8412 View attachment 8413 View attachment 8414 View attachment 8415
Before I invite Mr. sledge to the party I always get an aluminum drift. I would not have the strength to break my breaker bar, I just would’ve failed to move the strut. The aluminum drift would keep you from ruining the end of the nut or the threads on the bolt
 

SM105K

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Before I invite Mr. sledge to the party I always get an aluminum drift. I would not have the strength to break my breaker bar, I just would’ve failed to move the strut. The aluminum drift would keep you from ruining the end of the nut or the threads on the bolt
I had to call a friend and ask. He said it was splined. If I would have know that beforehand my breaker bar would still be intact. I have a nice new one now, so not all is lost.
 
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SM105K

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Couple of things. Going over my logs with Brad, we have come to the conclusion that my turbos are getting tired. With that being said I am almost out of fuel as well. It is safe and stable for the set up now. I have the IAT's and spark, I just don't have the air and fuel anymore.

The stock intercooler bottlenecks the stock turbos which allowed them to stay at a higher boost level. This was helping my turbos stay up higher in the boost range at high RPM. This new IC is a bit bigger and it has dropped the boost level across the board, because of the increased area and volume.

I could have my stockers rebuilt with a pair of upgraded wheels still researching that. I can also get brand new stock turbos off Tascaparts.com for like $427 a turbo. However, even with new stock turbos, I will be out of fuel completely. So either way, I am spending $3400 minimum (upgraded HPFP, rebuilt with billet wheels or stock turbos, and catless DP's) to achieve the power levels I am seeking.

As of right now, a stock replacement turbo is looking good because people are making what I want to make with them and the the new GH IC. Either way the car will end up with turbos, upgraded HPFP, and PPE catless DP's, it is just a matter of when.

I am heading to the track next Friday. I want to see what the car will do the new IC and new H&R springs. If it goes faster than a 12.56 at 108 I will call it a win. I want a low 12.4x with a low 1.7x sixty foot. Wishful thinking? Probably.
 

limited02

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That explains the lack of power you were expecting after the intercooler install! If you do rebuild the turbo's instead of new, will you do the EPP setup or the CR ones off eBay? Best of luck and looking forward to your results!
 

SM105K

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That explains the lack of power you were expecting after the intercooler install! If you do rebuild the turbo's instead of new, will you do the EPP setup or the CR ones off eBay? Best of luck and looking forward to your results!
Honestly I don't know. I will have to figure out what will be the best for my application.
 

SM105K

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Also, I drove the car last night. The drive is different and a bit more harsh with the PP struts and the new H&R Springs. However, I am sure it will settle down after I put it through its paces this weekend. I love the look and hopefully the rear settles a bit more. I will snap a picture of it tonight.
 

glockcoma

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Also, I drove the car last night. The drive is different and a bit more harsh with the PP struts and the new H&R Springs. However, I am sure it will settle down after I put it through its paces this weekend. I love the look and hopefully the rear settles a bit more. I will snap a picture of it tonight.

They will definitely settle more.
I initially thought the ride was unbearable with the H&R springs. They’ve definitely smoothed out, just takes awhile.
 

SM105K

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Kinda cool. I took this picture the day after I bought the car on my journey home. Completely bone stock.

20180505 064306

This was taken almost a year later at the same spot. Debadged, Darker Tint, H&R Springs, Ceramic Coating, and that plate.....lol.

Almost a year later
 
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SM105K

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Couple of take aways this weekend:

You can power drift this platform. The guy in the WRX tagging along with me up Waterman Ave heading to Crestline witnessed this first hand. Pretty sure he had to change his pants as I drifted around him. I know I had too. The H&R springs worked great in the mountains, I definitely had more confidence stuffing this 4500 lb sedan into corners that I would have taken a bit slower in the past. Night and day difference with the springs and brakes.

I did find the limits of the PowerStop brakes. On the back side of Crestline it is really technical, all down hill, and has a lot of corners. I made it to the almost the bottom, when the brakes decided to exit stage left. Pedal feel never left, but brake fade was immense. I don't know if the pads and rotors were too hot, or if the fluid was boiling in the calipers. Either, I took it easy for the last mile and got onto a nice straight away and they eventually came back.

Also, my SHO tops out at 157 mph,

After this weekend, I am pretty sure the SHO can file domestic violence charges on me.....
 

shoblock

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Couple of take aways this weekend:

You can power drift this platform. The guy in the WRX tagging along with me up Waterman Ave heading to Crestline witnessed this first hand. Pretty sure he had to change his pants as I drifted around him. I know I had too. The H&R springs worked great in the mountains, I definitely had more confidence stuffing this 4500 lb sedan into corners that I would have taken a bit slower in the past. Night and day difference with the springs and brakes.

I did find the limits of the PowerStop brakes. On the back side of Crestline it is really technical, all down hill, and has a lot of corners. I made it to the almost the bottom, when the brakes decided to exit stage left. Pedal feel never left, but brake fade was immense. I don't know if the pads and rotors were too hot, or if the fluid was boiling in the calipers. Either, I took it easy for the last mile and got onto a nice straight away and they eventually came back.

Also, my SHO tops out at 157 mph,

After this weekend, I am pretty sure the SHO can file domestic violence charges on me.....
Point of Order: Speedometer only goes to 140. How??
 
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