SM105K's SHO BIBLE/BUILDS/LIFE

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SM105K

Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
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New o2's are in the car. What a pain in the ass for the front two. It tried my patience but I got it done. Couple of things to help you if you decide to change yours.

You will need a 7/8 or 22 mm combo wrench, dikes, and 3 foot shoe string.

The front sensor is easier to get too if you loosen the 3 bolts on the turbo heat shield. I actually cut the wires on the my old ones so I could get my box end around the sensor itself. You will not be able to remove the shield completely, I just worked around it.

For the rear sensor, it is accessible by removing the passenger side tire. Use a jack stand, safety first. I cut the wires again and got my box end around the sensor and removed it. I lowered the car on the jack, and took off the engine cover. I reached into the engine bay and un-clipped the wiring harness from the stud on the engine and then un-clipped the o2 connector clips from the mount. If you look at your new o2 sensor you will see the clips for the mount. Since the wires were cut, I pulled the harness up and unplugged it.

I installed the new o2 sensor. This is where the shoe string comes to play. I made a slipknot (not the band) and fed it down through the engine compartment to where the o2 sensor connector is. I looped it around the connector and pulled it up to where it connected and tied it off so it couldn't fall back down. From there I connected the harness and 02 connector and mounted them in the correct place. I unlooped the shoe string and it was done. Two hours later mixed with some colorful language, I am pretty sure my neighbor thinks I have tourettes.

Hope this helps.

I then went and ran some logs for Brad for some finalized tuning for the dyno. On my 1st-4th gear pull she was riding! At the top of 4th gear (yeah I know, save it for something who cares) I heard an interesting sound. Sounded like something let loose and was dragging. I instantly thought side skirting...but nope. Damn skid plate came undone. Grr....now I need to go buy some new clips and reinstall it. So yeah. Fun.

Intercooler works damn good. I am seeing 20 to 25 degrees over ambient at the manifold. Also my car is having trouble holding more then 15 psi of boost. It keeps tampering off in the high rpms, even with the gates at 100%. So maybe the turbos are getting tired. Going to talk to my turbo guy and see if rebuilding them and adding a set of billet wheels is worth the money. Dyno runs tomorrow at 9 am.
 
Last edited:

xFallenxCripplex

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New o2's are in the car. What a pain in the ass for the front two. It tried my patience but I got it done. Couple of things to help you if you decide to change yours.

You will need a 7/8 or 22 mm combo wrench, dikes, and 3 foot shoe string.

The front sensor is easier to get too if you loosen the 3 bolts on the turbo heat shield. I actually cut the wires on the my old ones so I could get my box end around the sensor itself. You will not be able to remove the shield completely, I just worked around it.

For the rear sensor, it is accessible by removing the passenger side tire. Use a jack stand, safety first. I cut the wires again and got my box end around the sensor and removed it. I lowered the car on the jack, and took off the engine cover. I reached into the engine bay and un-clipped the wiring harness from the stud on the engine and then un-clipped the o2 connector clips from the mount. If you look at your new o2 sensor you will see the clips for the mount. Since the wires were cut, I pulled the harness up and unplugged it.

I installed the new o2 sensor. This is where the shoe string comes to play. I made a slipknot (not the band) and fed it down through the engine compartment to where the o2 sensor connector is. I looped it around the connector and pulled it up to where it connected and tied it off so it couldn't fall back down. From there I connected the harness and 02 connector and mounted them in the correct place. I unlooped the shoe string and it was done. Two hours later mixed with some colorful language, I am pretty sure my neighbor thinks I have tourettes.

Hope this helps.

I then went and ran some logs for Brad for some finalized tuning for the dyno. On my 1st-4th gear pull she was riding! At the top of 4th gear (yeah I know, save it for something who cares) I heard an interesting sound. Sounded like something let loose and was dragging. I instantly thought side skirting...but nope. Damn skid plate came undone. Grr....now I need to go buy some new clips and reinstall it. So yeah. Fun.

Intercooler works damn good. I am seeing 20 to 25 degrees over ambient at the manifold. Also my car is having trouble holding more then 15 psi of boost. It keeps tampering off in the high rpms, even with the gates at 100%. So maybe the turbos are getting tired. Going to talk to my turbo guy and see if rebuilding them and adding a set of billet wheels is worth the money. Dyno runs tomorrow at 9 am.
Will this not work?
TEKTON 3/8 in. Drive 7/8 in. (22 mm) Offset Oxygen Sensor Socket
https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-...m-Offset-Oxygen-Sensor-Socket-47749/205848403

Or

Alltrade 1/2 in. Drive 7/8 in. Oxygen Sensor Standard Socket
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Alltrad...xygen-Sensor-Standard-Socket-648442/204505245

Also found this in engine electrical control
http://www.nicksmustangranch.com/Service_Manuals/2014_Taurus/Service Manual.htm

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
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SM105K

Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
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They might work...only one way to find out. SBS said crows feet work as well. My dikes did just fine.
 

xFallenxCripplex

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They might work...only one way to find out. SBS said crows feet work as well. My dikes did just fine.
Yeah I have crows feet already for break lines I was gonna try
Did you have to use *********** fluid?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

SM105K

Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
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Yeah I have crows feet already for break lines I was gonna try
Did you have to use *********** fluid?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

No, I didn't. They came off easy, it was just trying to get my long wrench in the proper position. I have a unique ability to generate more force physically then most people, so it helps.
 

shoblock

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No, I didn't. They came off easy, it was just trying to get my long wrench in the proper position. I have a unique ability to generate more force physically then most people, so it helps.
Yeah but can you change a tire with a quarter inch ratchet? :)
 

SM105K

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I love when parts are delivered. Planning on a Saturday install, as my camber bolts should arrive today.

SHO HR
 
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shoblock

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I’m going to have the intercooler installed sometime in March and I plan to drive a day or two without Matts new calibrations. I’ll let you know how that goes. Matt is curious also
 

SM105K

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Dyno update.

She made the exact same power. 388/468 as last session. It seems I am having boost issues. I haven't reviewed the logs with Brad, but I am having boost tapering off in the high RPM. It seems it has dropped 1 psi to 2 psi across the board, from what I can see.

The good news is The GH IC is doing it's job as advertised. My manifold temps were in the low 70's on the dyno with a ambient of 38 degrees. That is 70 degrees cooler then the 391/470 pull. It was 78 degrees ambient and I saw temps in the 140's at the manifold. I am also getting about 2 more degrees of timing.

So the car is making the same HP while being down on boost. Maybe the turbos are tired, maybe I have a boost leak, maybe I have a wastegate issue. I will look over everything tomorrow because I will be installing the H&R Springs.
 
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SLO_SHO

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Dyno update.

She made the exact same power. 388/468 as last session. It seems I am having boost issues. I haven't reviewed the logs with Brad, but I am having boost tapering off in the high RPM. It seems it has dropped 1 psi to 2 psi across the board, from what I can see.

The good news is The GH IC is doing it's job as advertised. My manifold temps were in the low 70's on the dyno with a ambient of 38 degrees. That is 70 degrees cooler then the 391/470 pull. It was 78 degrees ambient and I saw temps in the 140's at the manifold. I am also getting about 2 more degrees of timing.

So the car is making the same HP while being down on boost. Maybe the turbos are tired, maybe I have a boost leak, maybe I have a wastegate issue. I will look over everything tomorrow because I will be installing the H&R Springs.
Thanks for the update, have fun with the springs! Itll look so much better when lowered. I just did mine couple months ago, it looks great but the oem wheels sit a little too far in the fenders for my liking so I'm waiting on some spacers to arrive.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

SM105K

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Just to back up the data on the GH IC. In the first picture in 78 degree ambient air the pull starts at 105 degrees and the climbs to 147 degrees at the manifold with the stock IC.

Stock IC

With the GH IC in 39 degree ambient the pull starts at 107 degrees and drops to 78 degrees at the manifold.

GH IC

My car is having boost issues, but it made the same power with less boost so.....The GH IC works as advertised.
 

shoblock

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Just to back up the data on the GH IC. In the first picture in 78 degree ambient air the pull starts at 105 degrees and the climbs to 147 degrees at the manifold with the stock IC.

View attachment 8406

With the GH IC in 39 degree ambient the pull starts at 107 degrees and drops to 78 degrees at the manifold.

View attachment 8407

My car is having boost issues, but it made the same power with less boost so.....The GH IC works as advertised.
Can't wait.
 
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