Changing Front Turn Signal Bulbs to LED?

[Matt M PA]

Hey folks....been looking into doing the Drive Bright driving light LED conversion. Looks great and after contacting the maker....and getting a fast, helpful response....I'm even closer to doing this. Except...

....thinking my OCD needs me to change the front turning signal bulbs to LED as the videos I have seen with the conversion show the new LEDs coming on faster than the incandescent bulbs. Drives me crazy when I see trucks with the LED mirror lights and the incandescent bulbs not working together...

So...has anyone...or does anyone know if there's an LED amber replacement for the factory front turn signal bulbs? My manual says is some crazy bulb...but looking at the bulb in the headlamp unit...looks like a standard type bulb to me.

UPDATE...looks like it's a 3457 bulb. I have found that I can get an LED replacement...but does it need to CAN Bus compliant....and will other mods need to be made to avoid it flashing too fast?

 

[Lostneye]

Yes it does need to be CAN bus compliant or use resistors to stop the hyperflash. I have used VLED Tritons before, not cheap but prob the brightest out there. I actually have a set of amber still in the box I may part with since I was thinking of going with switchbacks instead. Message me if interested.

 

[Matt M PA]

Message placed...

 

[OmaHahn]

Update this thread please - been thinking about doing the same. Thanks!

 

[Matt M PA]

OK...an update. I put in a set of VLED Triton V6 amber LEDs in the SHO Saturday night. (Many thanks to Lostneye for his input and help)

Install is very straight forward. I removed the top half of the air cleaner box for access.....passenger side is a little frustrating. You basically remove and unplug the factory bulb, put some electrical grease in the socket...then plug in the VLED adapter. Heat shrink the connection. Then, plug the actual LED bulb into the adapter. You do need to ensure that they are polarity correct...which means if they don't work...turn the adapter around 180 degrees. (Do that first!)

There is a collar that bolts onto the LED bulb, and it's the heads of these bolts that become the new "Ears" that retain the bulb in the socket.

The kit comes with 2 different foam gaskets and you are to use one or the other depending upon the type of bulb you are replacing. I used both as it was a bit loose with only one. (The vendor has since emailed me that this was OK)

I contacted the vendor prior to ordering, who said my car would need the "hyper flash fixers". I tested with just the bulbs and it works fine. So, at least in a 2018...you shouldn't have a problem with hyper flashing or "bulb out" warnings. (The vendor will take them back.)

A good tip....when heat shrinking the connection.....it's much easier if you can do this away from the car. I found that the factory bulb connector will easily disconnect from the harness and plug back in. So, save yourself some aggravation and just pull it out.

I also found the passenger side was tough to zip-tie out of the way. On both sides, I wanted to make sure that no wiring or connector was under stress. That was easy on the driver's side...but the passenger side was difficult as I just couldn't reach well with both hands...and still see what I was doing.

In the end....I like 'em. They're bright and work well.

Finally...as a side note. I saw a PI on the road today....and I think it has LED turn signals in the front.

 

[Lostneye]

I contacted the vendor prior to ordering, who said my car would need the "hyper flash fixers". I tested with just the bulbs and it works fine. So, at least in a 2018...you shouldn't have a problem with hyper flashing or "bulb out" warnings. (The vendor will take them back.)

A good tip....when heat shrinking the connection.....it's much easier if you can do this away from the car. I found that the factory bulb connector will easily disconnect from the harness and plug back in. So, save yourself some aggravation and just pull it out.

Interesting. I have not installed my set yet, this thread my push me to move maybe before Ford Nationals. Anyway I am surprised they flash correctly without the resistors. I have had issues with several other Fords that has a lighting module instead of a flasher I will see what happens with mine. I've had them too long to return but one less this to wire and mount is a plus.

In the past I have used silicone tape instead of heat shrink on the factory socket connection for these. It bonds to itself and not the sockets/wiring and has to be cut off but is waterproof and no heat needed.

 

[Lostneye]

Ordered switchbacks and paid for 2 day delivery so I should be able to get them in before Carlisle.

 

[Lostneye]

Well got someone else’s order in my package so no switchbacks for Carlisle. I do have a set of amber LEDs I might try and throw in until I get this sorted out.