2010 turns over, fails to start.

[Jmdaggett]

Okay, so backstory.
2010 Ford Taurus SHO
125,000 miles(no warranty)
No mechanical issues prior to this event
Running Livernois Stage 4 tune
93 Octane
Downpipe w/out cats
Borla Exhaust
The car was having a temperature alarm. I checked the coolant level and it was low. Replaced thermostat and refilled, no issues afterwards that day. Next day, again a temp alarm. I checked the coolant level and was low again. I didn't see any leaks coming from the motor, so i pulled the oil plug, and coolant came out of the drain. After some research, come to find out the water pump can leak into the motor. YAY! After replacing the water pump, cleaning out the motor and getting everything back together, the car won't start. It is turning over but won't fire. No metallic noise or pings coming from motor while turning over. Tries to fire but doesn't. I replaced spark plugs, verified oil flow, checked the coil packs, no codes being thrown, cleaned MAP sensors, verified throttle operation. I was leaning towards a possible fuel issue, but i have pulled the plugs after trying to turn it over, and there is fuel getting to the cylinders. Is there anything I should be checking to move forward with troubleshooting? Any input would be appreciated.

Justin

 

[krewat]

With the "key" on (ignition on and in RUN) check for voltage at the COPs between ground (engine block) and the red wire (most Fords, it's the red one). You should see +12V. Without voltage there, the coils won't fire.

Other than that, grounds?

 

[SHOdded]

And you have verified battery condition? How old is it?

 

[6500rpm]

Did you disturb or disconnect any harness connectors/grounds while making the repair? If yes, recheck. If not I'd first try a hard reset by disconnecting the positive cable clamp and draining B+ to ground. If still a no go, give it a squirt of carb cleaner and see if it hits to isolate a fuel issue from a spark issue. If it cranked and started just prior to the repair, odds are something you did during the repair is the root cause (connector, sensor, etc) but it's odd it's not throwing a code. Worst case, if the 2010's are the same as the later GTDI, it's possible that the valve timing moved. Did you lock the cams TDC when you took it apart? If not, that's a huge concern.

 

[glockcoma]

Maybe crankshaft or camshaft sensor?
Have you checked for codes even though it's not showing a CEL?

 

[Jmdaggett]

I have a brand new battery installed. Lots of harness connections were disconnected as well as a ground wire, pretty much everything on the motor to gain access to remove both head covers and timing chain cover. I did a hand over hand twice now to make sure nothing was disconnected or loose. I match marked the cam chains as well as the main timing chain. I will check the COP here shortly and give a value for that. I have checked for codes, the car isn't showing any. There is sometimes a sputtering like it wants to fire(approximately every 3rd or 4th time and seems consistent). I did shoot in some starter directly into the intake and gave it a shot, still no fire.

UPDATE: The COP was 11.89 to 11.91

 

[Jmdaggett]

And you have verified battery condition? How old is it?

Brand new Battery

 

[Jmdaggett]

With the "key" on (ignition on and in RUN) check for voltage at the COPs between ground (engine block) and the red wire (most Fords, it's the red one). You should see +12V. Without voltage there, the coils won't fire.

Other than that, grounds?

checked, 11.89 to 11.91

 

[Jmdaggett]

Maybe crankshaft or camshaft sensor?
Have you checked for codes even though it's not showing a CEL?

I did check for codes, none are showing. I'll see about a way to verify those sensors are still good.

 

[Jmdaggett]

Timing looks screwy. A busted cam phaser? Thoughts?

This is left bank

 

[Jmdaggett]

Right bank.

 

[SHOdded]

You had put alignment marks on the intake and exhaust timing chain links to match up with the sprockets?

 

[Jmdaggett]

You had put alignment marks on the intake and exhaust timing chain links to match up with the sprockets?

I didn't match mark the cam sprockets because i didn't remove the them. The alignment notch on the exhaust cam should be clockwise slightly based off the phaser sprocket from what I've seen on the assembly drawing. Looking like a cam alignment is in my future. I'll definitely be inspecting that phaser too

 

[6500rpm]

Search ebay/net for , Camshaft Holding Tool 303-1248 (set of 2). The Phaser is spring vs oil pressure and should have just returned to it's base advance.
***Ebay has that tool right now at a decent price, retail from Rotunda is $400+, ebay is significantly less.

 

[Jmdaggett]

Search ebay/net for , Camshaft Holding Tool 303-1248 (set of 2). The Phaser is spring vs oil pressure and should have just returned to it's base advance.
***Ebay has that tool right now at a decent price, retail from Rotunda is $400+, ebay is significantly less.

Thanks for that, it helped tremendously.

 

[Jmdaggett]

Just an update for everyone, the phaser issue has been resolved. Motor is back together and running like a champ. There was a seperate issue with the tune, but it was resolved quickly through SCT support. Thanks for all the inputs from everyone and getting the SHO back on the road.