2014 SHO OEM Thermostat Temperature rating/3BAR MAP sensor.

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2011TAURUSSEL

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I entered the exact title in the search bar and....."NO RESULTS FOUND"


.

Lets try again.

I am looking into a Livernois Stage 1 tune kit and they advertise 160F Thermostat.

First question What is the baseline OEM Thermostat temperature rating? 180/190/192/200? etc....

Question 2: They advertise 160 but would that run the risk of running too cool? Yes I know I am in Texas during the summer but still asking.

Question 3: Would a 170 work closely and reduce the risk of running too cool?

I am reading the advantages of a 3 bar MAP sensor over the OEM 1 bar.

I get that but is there any major benefits of a 4 bar over a 3 bar?

Is the fourth just one more check and validation sensor.?

This kit is in the "Add to Cart" section of the Livernois website but I am trying to get more information before pulling the trigger.
 

SHOdded

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More qualified responders here, but I'll take a swing at it:

1. OEM thermostat is 180F. It starts to open at 180F, fully open by 203F, per the FSM.
2. LME has previously stated that the EB engine's ideal operating temp is around 145F, so 160F is not too low. The hotter the tune, the more you need to control the temps, and hence the need for a cooler TStat. Tune update not required, but recommended.
3. 170F will work well also, again, just not controlling the temps at the high end as well as the 160F TStat. The 160F has consistently proven to drop temps up top 10F or more over the 170F.
4. OEM is referred to as a 2bar MAP, which is 1 bar (14.7 psi) over atmospheric. A 3bar MAP is 2 bars (29.4 psi) over atmospheric. There is no need for a 4bar, might actually drop resolution lower than 3bar considering the operating range of the transverse turbos. Now, in the F150, might be a different story on an extreme-ish build. Tune update required.

Not sure about the check/validation question ...
 

Livernois Motorsports

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The factory tstat is 178°, and lowering that in conjunction with tuning will not have your car running too cold. That is a common misconception. Many think to install a 160° tstat you am asking for trouble. We create tuning designed for the addition. They think that the engine will not reach normal temps, throw a CEL and ultimately cause damage. That could not be any further from the truth! There is nothing to worry about at all. The HVAC and block cooling systems are completely separated. They have nothing to do with each other. As for the addition of a 170°tstat, that will do nothing but run the cooling fans constantly. There is not a difference in 8° between that and stock.
There is not 4 BAR support for any of the EcoBoost vehicles. The SHO comes with 2 MAP sensors stock. One is a 3 BAR MAP at the throttle body, and the other is a 2 BAR MAP that is located at the top of the intake manifold. Your car COMPLETELY STOCK actually wastes power, because it is capable of making boost spikes that are in excess of the limitations of the 2 BAR MAP (~14.8PSI). We are utilizing the car's engineering against itself by adding a 3 BAR MAP sensor at the top of the intake manifold. This also helps us to better measure, map and then apply both the power that the car makes stock and higher levels of boost as well. This addition not only produces a more power tune, but the power is more controlled and linear in nature. Unfortunately, the 3 BAR MAP sensor is not part of any of the lower packages, but can be added on at a marginal cost.
Installations is fairly simple as well. Your tuner will arrive to you completely blank, and ready to read info that will give us your factory calibration. You email that info to us, and we build you your tunes. When they are built we provide you with an app to download to your PC. This app will allow you to connect to our secured remote tuning server. All that you have to do is click "Update Tuner", and that will send us your factory calibration. Once we get that info to our calibration department we will have your custom tuning files ready for you in 24-48 hours. Whenever your tunes are ready to put onto your handheld we will email you letting you know that you can plug your tuner back into your PC and update the tuner again. After that, just load your tune onto your car and have fun! To install the tstat, take the intake tube off, remove the hose to the thermostat housing outlet. You will lose about a quart of antifreeze from that. Then remove the two 8mm bolts holding the housing outlet on. Once you pop out the stock thermostat you will lose another quart to half gallon of antifreeze. Put it back together in the reverse order. Let the engine run with the cap to the overflow tank off after I topped it off for about 15 minutes to get the air out. Just keep an eye on it and the temp gauge. After that take it for a quick drive then shut it down and let it cool completely. At that point you will see if you need to top it off. The Windstorm cold air kit is a premium dry reusable clear unit that is a simple R&R modification. Finally the 3 BAR MAP is the easiest part ever to upgrade! Unscrew the engine oil cap, pop off the engine cover and remove the single Torx screw that holds on the stock sensor in place. Everything will have instructions with the exception of the tstat and MAP sensor.
The tuner is transferrable to another supported Ford vehicle in the future. We do this at no additional cost to the original owner of the tuner as well.
The SHO is rated at 365/365 from Ford stock, but only makes about 275/275 stock. This package will add around 100whp/110wtq, all while increasing MPG's and maintaining great driving characteristics!
 

2011TAURUSSEL

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Basically with the tune you are getting back what Ford advertises as Horsepower.

If Airlines have to disclose fees and taxes in ticket prices and retailer have to disclose fees and taxes the auto manufacturers should have to disclose AT WHEEL HP and Torque.
 

SilverSH0

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If Airlines have to disclose fees and taxes in ticket prices and retailer have to disclose fees and taxes the auto manufacturers should have to disclose AT WHEEL HP and Torque.

So lets say the manufacturers start advertising wheel hp that they measure from a dyno. What wheels do they use for the horsepower rating? Do they use the small maybe 18" light wheels on the base model? Or do they use the large 20" wheels on the high end model? Do they advertise different power ratings based on the wheel choices? Do they take the average of all the wheel combinations?

The point is that while an engine will produce a constant output, simple changes to the car can result in different power readings at the wheels. So rather than factoring in all the different variations, it's easier for all the manufacturers to rate it at the crank. Since everyone rates at the crank, I don't really see the issue.
 

Foran

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It seem to me that in frigid weather, it's going to take longer to get to proper operating temps, which is not good for the motor. Most wear comes from warmup and it would seemingly delay it. I was a little surprised how long it takes for the temp gauge to reach the middle this winter. Not talking about interior heat, but engine operating temps. It certainly is a contentious subject !

The one thing I know for sure is the LMS tune is amazing. I came upon another distracted "driver" today and I guess it downshifted into second and it really moves. I remember the days where this kind of gain in power would require pulling the engine and spending big bucks.
 
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SHOdded

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Are you keeping watch on coolant level? Its notorious for dropping enough to cause warmup/heating problems. Have the degas bottle pressure tested, make sure the system is holding pressure. You may even need to burp the system to make sure coolant is flowing properly.

But, as long as heat is working as expected, more than likely, the SHO is working properly.
 

Foran

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Are you keeping watch on coolant level? Its notorious for dropping enough to cause warmup/heating problems. Have the degas bottle pressure tested, make sure the system is holding pressure. You may even need to burp the system to make sure coolant is flowing properly.

But, as long as heat is working as expected, more than likely, the SHO is working properly.

Coolant level is fine. Here's a contrary opinion, I posted before.

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/04/low-temp-thermostats-whats-the-advantage/
 

BamSHO

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That's why I run the aeroforce gauges, with coolant temp setting on. Same 160 tstat in my '12 and '13, always had good heat, even when it was super cold last winter. But each car is different too.
 

Foran

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That's why I run the aeroforce gauges, with coolant temp setting on. Same 160 tstat in my '12 and '13, always had good heat, even when it was super cold last winter. But each car is different too.

What are your usual operating temps?
 

SilverSH0

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So, regardless whether it's a 160 or 180, they would both be wide open. Right ?
From an uneducated person I would say it would depend on when the thermostat is completely open. I'm no expert here but on older vehicles the thermostat temperature rating was when it started to open and it completely opened 15-20 over that rating. So in the case of BamSHO the stock 180* thermostat would just barely be opening and far from wide open. But the 160* thermostat would likely be completely open. Which would make sense because I believe my stock thermostat car runs the coolant around 195 when cruising down the highway.

But if for some reason the 160* thermostat takes 20 degrees to open fully and the stock 180* thermostat opens fully at 180*, then I would say they would both be wide open. But I'm not sure that's the case.
 

BamSHO

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The temp is when they start to open. Either 160, 170, 180 they will be open at some degree. They get to a normal operating temp which is usually about 10-15 degrees than the stated tstat setting. Don't over think it.
 

Foran

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The temp is when they start to open. Either 160, 170, 180 they will be open at some degree. They get to a normal operating temp which is usually about 10-15 degrees than the stated tstat setting. Don't over think it.

I'm trying not to ! Did you read the link I posted?
 

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