Parts installed, waiting for tune!

[Carstar33]

Slipped down across the border today and picked up my tune kit, exhaust and SHO side vents for my 2010 non PP.

LMS Windstorm CAI is a breeze (pun intended) to install, fits nicely once you use the weatherstripping provided by LMS.

Spark plugs are in, 5/6 were easy peasy, the back right one is a bit of a son of a gun. But it went in.

The thermostat was no where near as tricky as I thought it would be. I lost less than a cup of fluid and it burped on my first try. Lots of heat and steady operating temp. I jacked up the side with just the spare tire jack as far as possible and just did a quick exchange of the t-stats, threw the ring on and no problem.

I never ordered the 3Bar MAP sensor, is it going to make a big difference? Is LMS stage 4 available without it? 4+?

Just have to get a guy to throw on the Corsa and new rotors/pads (bad brake pulse at the moment). 3 mechanics all quoted me 3 hours and $200+ to do just the plugs and t-stat. The 3.5 hours it took me was well worth it.

Sent my Stat code to LMS and just waiting for the tunes!

 

[SHOdded]

I do believe the TStat, 3 bar and 93 fuel are requirements for the 4X or higher tune level. Should be ok with your current config up to 4+.

If you can DIY, it is very rewarding (financially & mentally) when all is said & done There was no sign of oil seepage in any of the spark plug wells, I hope. Got a pic of the plugs? The key with the TStat does seem to be to provide that high point on the right side.

 

[SHOnUup4]

Congrats on the go fast purchases!

Glad to hear the tstat went easy for ya, seems the jacking up of the corner has helped quite a few now.

Highly suggest the 3bar set of tunes. Just seems to be an overall smoother ride.

Good luck and keep us posted on the results.

Rich

 

[Carstar33]

@SHOdded I am planning on just going to 4+ anyways.

Not a lick of oil anywhere to be found, which I was surprised because it is at 85,000km. I do have the plugs, they were in pretty good shape.

After it sat over night my coolant was about an 1/8th of an inch below the cold fill level, topped it up and away we go. Is there someone we contact specifically at LMS for tunes? I know they supply 4 tunes with the purchase of MyCal, but do I have to pay for more in the future?

 

[Calgary]

Nice to see everything went smoothly. Ive also had problems with the rotors and the pads ive had them refinished 3 times now lol . Ill be replacing with the slotted EBC rotors and EBC red Stuff pads when the inevitably warp again.

 

[SHOdded]

Is there someone we contact specifically at LMS for tunes? I know they supply 4 tunes with the purchase of MyCal, but do I have to pay for more in the future?

Not sure on that. Jaimie from LME will respond I am sure by Tuesday (he's on here regularly). But you can always PM him (username Livernois Motorsports) to get your questions in queue

 

[SHOnUup4]

Use their tuning email. Think it's [email protected]

Rich

 

[Carstar33]

Sorry guys I know this is probably on one of the like 8 forums I have bookmarked, but I am tired of sifting though posts.

What maintenance should I be doing before the tune (4+)? The car has been well taken care of, I am the second owner and the guy before me was a car nut.

85 000 kms on it.

@Calgary is there anywhere in the city you use other than a dealer/dealer you would recommend?

 

[SHOdded]

PCM calibration should be up-to-date. A dealer can do this for you.
Spark plugs should be new, gapped to 0.030. Motorcraft SP534's work just fine, NGK has a product offering also. Check spark plug wells for oil, which could indicate valve cover leaks.
Turbo piping is known to come loose and/or split. Check carefully, tighten loose clamps. Telltale signs of splits include oil seepage around the clamps.
Inspect for oil in intake/intercooler. Should at most be a bit moist, definitely not pooling oil.
Chafing knock sensor wires can cause decreased performance. Fix as needed.
Change transmission fluid, if it has not been done already.
Change PTU/RDU fluid also. At the very least inspect for level and quality.
Use low volatility high quality full synthetic engine oil.
Go over the 2010-12 TSBs here, see if anything strikes a chord / needs to be addressed.

 

[Carstar33]

PCM calibration should be up-to-date. A dealer can do this for you.
Spark plugs should be new, gapped to 0.030. Motorcraft SP534's work just fine, NGK has a product offering also. Check spark plug wells for oil, which could indicate valve cover leaks.
Turbo piping is known to come loose and/or split. Check carefully, tighten loose clamps. Telltale signs of splits include oil seepage around the clamps.
Inspect for oil in intake/intercooler. Should at most be a bit moist, definitely not pooling oil.
Chafing knock sensor wires can cause decreased performance. Fix as needed.
Change transmission fluid, if it has not been done already.
Change PTU/RDU fluid also. At the very least inspect for level and quality.
Use low volatility high quality full synthetic engine oil.
Go over the 2010-12 TSBs here, see if anything strikes a chord / needs to be addressed.

Thank you yet again