SHO Is Ready For A Clutch....

[luigisho]

Pretty much. There are threads on how to drain it and/or refill it at home if you poke around with the search function. The shop uses a hand pump to siphon and refill it. You need a siphon to pull the fluid and most likely use a funnel and tubing and let gravity do the work for refill. You will not get every drop of old fluid out with a siphon but that's ok. There is a how to for drilling and installing a drain plug in the trans if you want to go that route.
http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?threads/changing-transmission-oil-92-sho.120346/#post-1325839

How goes the clutch replacement? The vids should be there any day now.

 

[Danielle]

Pretty much. There are threads on how to drain it and/or refill it at home if you poke around with the search function. The shop uses a hand pump to siphon and refill it. You need a siphon to pull the fluid and most likely use a funnel and tubing and let gravity do the work for refill. You will not get every drop of old fluid out with a siphon but that's ok. There is a how to for drilling and installing a drain plug in the trans if you want to go that route.
http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?threads/changing-transmission-oil-92-sho.120346/#post-1325839

How goes the clutch replacement? The vids should be there any day now.

I have not started on the clutch yet. I got stopped because the owner before put 40+ dollar gorilla lug nuts on the car and I had no key so I had to shop on Ebay lol. But I got it in yesterday. So im gonna get started.

 

[luigisho]

Good luck. With the trans out you can drain it easily. Here is a drain plug write up if you're interested http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/SHO_Transaxle_Drain_Plug_Installation

 

[Danielle]

Good luck. With the trans out you can drain it easily. Here is a drain plug write up if you're interested http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/SHO_Transaxle_Drain_Plug_Installation

Good luck. With the trans out you can drain it easily. Here is a drain plug write up if you're interested http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/SHO_Transaxle_Drain_Plug_Installation

Alright. Cool!

 

[DeepPower]

My first few threads on here were about my shifting. It was hard to shift into gears. I had to yank back to pop it in place. So I had a few suggestions and chose to replace my Shift Lever and bought a Clevis Repair Kit. My shifting is tight and feels nice, but it never fixed my problem. Its a rod shifter so I cant adjust it. I have pulled up on my clutch pedal to make sure it was adjusted. Still doing the same problems.

Ok. Im gonna sound stupid but Ive had this car for a few months now. I have yet to check the transmission fluid. I changed the oil but have never even messed with the tranny fluid.

I've had hard shifting issues before, like I have to really shove hard to put it in gear. For me it means it's time to change the transmission fluid. Especially if you live in Texas like me, the trans fluid can get black and too thin real fast. So before you go to the effort of replacing the clutch, I suggest you change the transmission fluid first.

BTW, best way to adjust the clutch pedal is with the engine off, push the clutch pedal way down to the floor, then just slide your foot off it and let it spring to the top. It should slam up hard to the top of the travel. You get the max adjustment out of the pedal that way.

 

[Danielle]

I've had hard shifting issues before, like I have to really shove hard to put it in gear. For me it means it's time to change the transmission fluid. Especially if you live in Texas like me, the trans fluid can get black and too thin real fast. So before you go to the effort of replacing the clutch, I suggest you change the transmission fluid first.

BTW, best way to adjust the clutch pedal is with the engine off, push the clutch pedal way down to the floor, then just slide your foot off it and let it spring to the top. It should slam up hard to the top of the travel. You get the max adjustment out of the pedal that way.

I really do hope its the fluid. I noticed there was fluid in it so its not empty but it is a brownish color. I still plan on replacing the clutch only because it has been at all maintained. I have a bad oil leak so I want to clean up around the area. If the clutch and fluid is changed and I still have problems then its most likely my tranny thats having problems. I really hope not because the cheapest one I found in $800. I have also noticed master cylinder fluid is dark brown So I need to change it. What kind of tranny fluid did you use? The fluid that my chiltons book is recommending isnt in any oreillys or autozones around me.

 

[Danielle]

Good luck. With the trans out you can drain it easily. Here is a drain plug write up if you're interested http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/SHO_Transaxle_Drain_Plug_Installation

I got the dvds!!! The clutch video is VERY VERY helpful. Have yet to watch the 60,000 mile service video but I will be. Thanks you sooooo much!!

 

[luigisho]

A lot of people have good luck running Mobile 1 synthetic ATF in the MTX cars. Oreilly should have it. I think it's 3qts.

All the fluids I saw in pic/vid looked pretty bad. I think you need to recheck and change them if needed.

 

[Danielle]

A lot of people have good luck running Mobile 1 synthetic ATF in the MTX cars. Oreilly should have it. I think it's 3qts.

All the fluids I saw in pic/vid looked pretty bad. I think you need to recheck and change them if needed.

Ya. The only thing I have changed is the oil and coolant. But im gonna do a flush on the coolant so its clean. Ill also clean the master cylinder and power steering fluid since it is so Bad. I was told that you bleed the brakes when cleaning the master cylinder, is that correct?

 

[luigisho]

I guess that depends on what you mean by cleaning the master cylinder. I would just flush all the old stuff out through bleeding the brakes. Shove all the old crap out through the calipers. I usually get some bulk 'fuel line hose' in a package at AutoZone or wherever and put that over the caliper bleeder and run it to a bottle to catch all the old stuff like a soda bottle or something with some brake fluid at the bottom for the other end of the hose to sit in.

 

[Danielle]

I guess that depends on what you mean by cleaning the master cylinder. I would just flush all the old stuff out through bleeding the brakes. Shove all the old crap out through the calipers. I usually get some bulk 'fuel line hose' in a package at AutoZone or wherever and put that over the caliper bleeder and run it to a bottle to catch all the old stuff like a soda bottle or something with some brake fluid at the bottom for the other end of the hose to sit in.

Ok cool. Ya. I already have the bleeder so Ill also do that.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

So it should basically be filled to the hole.

Yes.

 

[Devin]

So it should basically be filled to the hole.

Yeah, I just stick my finger in it.

 

[zak]

Check that clutch to make sure its not 9 and a quarter inch. In late 1990 they switched to 9 3/4 and all the older SHOs got upgraded to this size. That may be why that clutch is so cheap.

What happened to private messages on this board?

 

[Danielle]

Check that clutch to make sure its not 9 and a quarter inch. In late 1990 they switched to 9 3/4 and all the older SHOs got upgraded to this size. That may be why that clutch is so cheap.

What happened to private messages on this board?

I want to do a good job on this car so im putting the clutch job on hold for now. Get the tranny fluid changed to see if it fixes my shifting. I drove my car around the neighborhood since its been a good while. Felt as bad as it did before (shifting into gears). I am getting a feeling that its gonna need the syncronizers fixed. Oh jeez. So I want to have the money saved up to make sure I can afford anything thatll Ill need at the moment.

 

[luigisho]

That's a lot of work and hunting for parts. You compare that with finding another tranny? The TX SHO guys should have a line on one, or you could use salvage yard search bots like co-part finder or car-part.com etc. Also shosource and RCMautomotive can help along with ebay and classified sections on this board.

Funny thing is you're learning the primary lesson. There's no such thing as a cheap car. You either pay up front or pay on the back end.

 

[Danielle]

That's a lot of work and hunting for parts. You compare that with finding another tranny? The TX SHO guys should have a line on one, or you could use salvage yard search bots like co-part finder or car-part.com etc. Also shosource and RCMautomotive can help along with ebay and classified sections on this board.

Funny thing is you're learning the primary lesson. There's no such thing as a cheap car. You either pay up front or pay on the back end.

Ya. I found a tranny online for $800. Just seems like so much. I want to see how much it will cost to get a mechanic to look at it and tell me if its the syncros. If its the syncros then Ill compare my prices with rebuilding and just getting another one.

 

[Danielle]

Im changing fluid currently. Looks dirty. Anyone know how to adjust the cable, if it needs adjusting.

 

[luigisho]

Some of the synchros may be obsolete. I would contact shosource to verify if you need them. There is more than one tranny out there you just have to track it down. Look for tony huerta on the board user name el toro or something like that. He does a lot of sho work in TX and has boosted a few SHOs. They eat transmissions so he may keep some around.

 

[zak]

Unless you know for certain that the car had been dragged raced I would not suspect a synchronizer or synchronizer blocking ring. What happens is that the clutch fingers wear away meaning the clutch does not completely disengage. 8 times out of 10 a new clutch will fix this, a ceramic TOB will help keep in from coming back in 30 K miles like the conventional ones do.

1 time out of 10 adjusting the clutch cable (pulling up on pedal, at this point the auto adjusters are often frozen) will fix this, often the fix is temproary, at some point the clutch diaphram fingers start to collapse.

In the meantme if you must drive the car shut it off when at a stop and then put it in first, then start the engine to get going. Jamming it in with a partially released clutch will wear the synchronier blocking rings fast.

If I were you I would get a very good quality 15 mm and 18 mm deep half inch drive six pockets, and a breaker bar, borrow a floor jack, jack stands and an engine support, and put the $ 85 clutch in (it is 9 3/4s the proper size). I would not go out an buy a transmission for it yet, I bet a fresh clutch fixes things. Change the fork pivot bushings while you are in there.