Complete A/C rebuild

[vortex2450]

Long story short, I bought this SHO with no A/C, got tired of the accumulator and lines being in my way and hacked them out since they didn't work.

After driving/riding in other SHOs with A/C I've decided I want to try and rebuild the system.

So here's what I am working with.



Crapola.



More crap.



...



I am just going to presume that everything still attached is garbage; compressor, condenser, evaporator, etc.

So I what I'm looking for is a definitive list of all the components I'll need to have a functional A/C system, the most concern being that I order all of the hoses I'll need.

-Josh

 

[Airborne]

Buy a liquid line and a suction line (w/ accumulator) which are still available.
Get a used muffler/manifold from the junkyard and flush it out.
Those old cut lines come off easy with the quick connector removal tools.
By the looks of that compressor, I would replace it. It wont last long if it is that rusty inside.
As far as the condensor and evaporator, I would flush them and vacuum test them before installing new lines. I have the equipment and adaptors, though. So, see how much a shop would charge you to flush and test them. The evaporator is a PITA to replace if it doesn't need to be replaced.

 

[vortex2450]

Buy a liquid line and a suction line (w/ accumulator) which are still available.
Get a used muffler/manifold from the junkyard and flush it out.
Those old cut lines come off easy with the quick connector removal tools.
By the looks of that compressor, I would replace it. It wont last long if it is that rusty inside.
As far as the condensor and evaporator, I would flush them and vacuum test them before installing new lines. I have the equipment and adaptors, though. So, see how much a shop would charge you to flush and test them. The evaporator is a PITA to replace if it doesn't need to be replaced.

To be honest I am not that well versed in A/C systems, could you possibly lin me to the parts that I can still purchase new?

 

[Airborne]

To be honest I am not that well versed in A/C systems, could you possibly lin me to the parts that I can still purchase new?

Where do you shop for parts? I can look up some parts for you and describe what parts you need to get from the junkyard.

 

[trainguy1989]

To be honest I am not that well versed in A/C systems, could you possibly lin me to the parts that I can still purchase new?

These are the parts you can still buy new:

A/C Receiver Drier / Accumulator: FOUR SEASONS Part # 55620 (Do not remove the caps until everything else is installed. Connect this last. You want to limit the exposure to moisture)
Liquid Line w/ Orifice Tube: FOUR SEASONS Part # 55722
Discharge Line: FOUR SEASONS Part # 55920
A/C Condenser: FOUR SEASONS Part # 54318
A/C Compressor: FOUR SEASONS Part # 57365
A/C Evaporator Core: FOUR SEASONS Part # 54534 (You have to pull the dash for this. Flush it and hope it doesn't leak. Check for rust too)

These cannot be bought new. They are your compressor manifolds:

^^This guy can be rebuilt at A/C shops such as ThermoKing^^



Make sure the above are not rusty in the interior. Anything you decide to leave and reuse, check for rust. You do NOT want rust in your system.

This comes in handy as well:
A/C System O-Ring & Gasket Kit: FOUR SEASONS Part # 26719

 

[vortex2450]

Thanks a ton trainguy.

That's exactly what I was looking for. I am assuming the compressor manifolds are SHO specific? Is that can shaped object on the other manifold the drier? I think I know that the accumulator is an entirely different component.



I have to pull the dash to replace the heater core anyways so I might as well replace the evap core while i am in there.

Also, I see you linked Four Seasons stuff, I am assuming you have used that brand and trust the quality?

-Josh

 

[kurtscash]

I am trying to do just the opposite, fix my a/c with minimal expense, the a/c guy recharged system , blew cold for 3 days. The compressor works, etc. A/C guy told me $2,000- and well I laughed, then I went online found the Compressor for $250-$275, but what else would be necessary if I try to replace it...??? Hoses, etc.

An input anyone?

 

[Airborne]

I am trying to do just the opposite, fix my a/c with minimal expense, the a/c guy recharged system , blew cold for 3 days. The compressor works, etc. A/C guy told me $2,000- and well I laughed, then I went online found the Compressor for $250-$275, but what else would be necessary if I try to replace it...??? Hoses, etc.

An input anyone?

Get a new AC guy. Sounds like you have a small leak and fixing a leak does not cost $2000. An AC guy worth anything will be able to find the leak and fix it. If the system worked for 3 days, I doubt you need a compressor, unless it was making a lot of noise and locked up.

 

[EL SHO]

Get a new AC guy. Sounds like you have a small leak and fixing a leak does not cost $2000. An AC guy worth anything will be able to find the leak and fix it. If the system worked for 3 days, I doubt you need a compressor, unless it was making a lot of noise and locked up.

+2 on getting a new AC guy. good god.. 2,000!? That guy is sure desesperate on cash

 

[kurtscash]

OK Gentlemen I will seek new counsel... yeah he wanted to just replace the whole system, compressor, clutch, evaporator, I asked in January thinking he would give me a better deal, he tried to sell me on the idea it is the old a/c juice (R-12 ???) with (R134 ???). Thanks for the advice... And like I tell everyone "take my advice, I'm not using it". In this case I will actually use the advice !!!

 

[Airborne]

OK Gentlemen I will seek new counsel... yeah he wanted to just replace the whole system, compressor, clutch, evaporator, I asked in January thinking he would give me a better deal, he tried to sell me on the idea it is the old a/c juice (R-12 ???) with (R134 ???). Thanks for the advice... And like I tell everyone "take my advice, I'm not using it". In this case I will actually use the advice !!!

You need to convert to r134 if you can not find someone who still works on r12. But converting it right should still only cost about $500 including finding and fixing the leak. You need new accumulator drier, r134 pressure switch and fitting, flush system and temporarily remove compressor to drain the oil, don't flush the compressor.

If you find someone to work on r12 they can fix the leak and charge the system for about the same price ($500) because r12 is about 3 times the cost of r134.

 

[kurtscash]

First of all thank you Airborne and El Sho for your time and input...!!!

When the guy recharged the system I think he used 134, do you think that will affect kick starting the system ?? If I go to upgrade to the 134 will his previous use of 134 make a difference on replacing even more parts or you think I can still pull it off for $500, my son in law is a mechanic but a/c isn't his specialty but we can keep labor costs down with his help.

I looked at couple places and maybe they have different names for them but I didn't find Pressure Switch and Fitting, unless this is it:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1992-Ford-Taurus/A-C-Switch/_/N-ix2aeZ91t6l

Here are my 2 choices on Accumulator (the cheaper one mentions R12)
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1992-Ford-Taurus/A-C-Accumulator/_/N-ix2aeZ91si2

So I don't flush the compressor I just drain it. So step by step I buy the parts, find someone to track down leaks and fix them and depending on how much they charge me, they or I will - flush system, drain compressor , put it back together and then get it recharged...? I think that's it...

Finally - do you have any idea where to get schematics or a youtube video showing where the compressor, etc. are and how to get to them easiest?

Thank you in advance.

 

[Airborne]

This is going to be hard to explain fixing AC on a forum but I will try.
Yes, those are the parts. But, what refrigerant you have and which refrigerant you choose to go with will decide what parts you change out. But first contact a good AC guy that will work with you and find out if he can and will recharge you system with R12, and compare the price of R12 to R134. You might want to go with R134 if you can't find someone to work with R12 or you find out that R12 is too expensive. BEFORE you work on the system, have an AC shop evacuate the system.

First, take the car to a GOOD AC shop and have them evacuate the system and maybe they will be able to tell you what refrigerant was in the system. And decide at that time what refrigerant you are going to put back in.

After you talk to the AC guy, I can give you more advise. Definitely flush and accumulator/dryer no matter what or which refrigerant you go with after that so called AC guy contaminated you system. You could have a leak or it could not be working because the R134 that joker put in became contaminated with R12 remnants or mineral oil left in the system. Attached are some schematics.

 

[kurtscash]

ok, Airborne I'm hoping in the next week or so I'm trying to get this on track... I've been checking around for a reputable A/C guy that is also reasonable... After I pick my poison R12 or R134 I'll move forward, after much searching seems the R134 conversion might be the best bet, as if I need a recharge ever again might as well go R134 now, and the price for parts vs. expensive r12 will even out. I guess what I find will dictate that decision.

I will let you know about the progress and I can't thank you enough for all your input and expertise. These schematics etc are kick ass, you are the man! thanks brother!

Thank you and I'll keep you up to speed.

 

[kevinspann]

If you go with R134, get a later, larger condensor that was made for 134 equipped cars.

 

[3d914]

This is a great reference thread. Thanks guys - keep the details coming.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

If the car previously ran R12 you can easily convert and get a R134a Compressor Cycling switch: SHO Source

It does help to get more out of the system.

The condenser is the same for all years: SHO Source

 

[probe_racer]

if u are going to do it then...

Wear eye protection and dont gloves to avoid having burns. use an A/C manifold, use a proper vacuum pump to pull vacuum on the system and make sure the systems hold vacuum for at least 30 mins to make sure there are no leaks

make sure u refill the whole AC system with the correct amount of oil, do not mix the oil and make sure that u don't add the full amount to the ac compressor, there needs to be some oil on the condenser so it get sucked through the whole system and add a little bit of dye to detect leaks in the future. do not overfill the system since it can make things go boom.

replace orifice tube and make sure u dont put it backwards, also the shredder valves where u fill it up.

R134 is the easiest to get still and not super expensive, i dont recommend getting the "boosted" R134 that supposedly makes the ac get cold faster since it will increase the operating internal pressure a bit higher than factory recommended.

Do NOT invert refrigerant cans upside down to make the system pull it faster since the compressor can blow up cause it is not designed to compress that much refrigerant all at once.

good luck.

 

[Airborne]

[/QUOTE]The condenser is the same for all years: SHO Source[/QUOTE]

This is true. At least when it comes to volume.

When I converted the '89 AC back to R12, I went to the junkyard to get the "larger" condenser out of a '95 that originally used R134 in the system. I thought, "****, R12 and larger condenser, I will have icicles on the dash".

But i found out it is just a myth. The condensers might be different part numbers, but dimensionally and volume, they are the same.

 

[Airborne]

if u are going to do it then...

Wear eye protection and dont gloves to avoid having burns. use an A/C manifold, use a proper vacuum pump to pull vacuum on the system and make sure the systems hold vacuum for at least 30 mins to make sure there are no leaks

make sure u refill the whole AC system with the correct amount of oil, do not mix the oil and make sure that u don't add the full amount to the ac compressor, there needs to be some oil on the condenser so it get sucked through the whole system and add a little bit of dye to detect leaks in the future. do not overfill the system since it can make things go boom.

replace orifice tube and make sure u dont put it backwards, also the shredder valves where u fill it up.

R134 is the easiest to get still and not super expensive, i dont recommend getting the "boosted" R134 that supposedly makes the ac get cold faster since it will increase the operating internal pressure a bit higher than factory recommended.

Do NOT invert refrigerant cans upside down to make the system pull it faster since the compressor can blow up cause it is not designed to compress that much refrigerant all at once.

good luck.

Thanks, but we haven't got to the point of putting refrigerant back into the system.

If an "AC Guy" wants to put dye into your system, find another AC guy. The only thing that should be in a AC system is refrigerant and oil. Dye is for amateurs and will sacrifice efficiency, especially if an R12 system has been converted to R134.