shimmy/shudder after warmed up..

[shoreracer92]

ok guys, need to pick your brains again. backstory first. wife took the 92 5spd to day for errands. comes home early and the first thing i hear "theres something wrong with YOUR car". its shaking, and bouncing all over the road and i smell burning rubber.
i went outside, looked, smelled, poked, and proded. nothing. decided to take it for a very spirited ride..a half hours worth. nothing until i turned down my street. it did feel like a stumble, maybe even a midfire. didn't seem to affect power but in 1st and 2nd while rolling, no gas or brake, if specifically felt like a out of round tire.
took it home again, up on stands, all suspension 100%. normal fluid leaks, and no burning rubber smell. though i did smell that hot engine smell, and she said thats "kinda" the same smell. put it back on the ground drove it again, nothing. after 15 min did it again. turned off, then on, gone, drove, happened again...repeat.
it also has that infamous tap/knock sound that i figure is comming from an injector. could this be the issue? any of you guys run into anything before like this? injector warmning up and fowling up? maybe plugs/wires? if this is in the wrong section i'm sorry, give me a heads up to copy and paste. if thats possible. HELP!

 

[jayro]

Start with pulling codes, they can point you in the right direction.

 

[shoreracer92]

gotta search on how to do that...(noob here)

 

[jayro]

It can be done with a paperclip. If you look on shotimes.com they have a write up on it. Im sure there is one here on the forum somewhere too.

 

[shoreracer92]

just looked up the procedure, ill do the tests tomorrow and report back if theres codes or not. thanks

 

[shoreracer92]

ok, ran the codes... KOEO codes were 539 & 542, and in the KOER it had 4 codes that weren't even identifiable. then cyl. 4 was weak. i turned off the heat (code 539) and warmed the car up some more and ran them again. 542 still there and no codes in the KOER. and #4 didn't come up weak... anyone? please? i plan on doing the top and front by the end of june, i has to start getting parts.

 

[vortex2450]

542 is a fuel pump secondary circuit failure. Form your description of the events happening intermittently and no constantly (as a mechanical issue would likely occur constantly) I would definitely start with the fuel system.

With the car cold turn the key to "on" but don't crank and press something into the Schroeder valve on the fuel rail to check for pressure. Do the same after you've warmed the car up and preferably when the issue occurs.


Check (I would replace while I'm there it's $12) the fuel filter and lines. Check the fuse for the fuel pump in the fuse box (power distribution) under the hood ( upper left hand side).

Also, check all you're plug wires and connections for the sake of it.


Those 4 KOER codes are probably valuable, when the light flashes after you do the "goose" test write down everything after the first "1-1-1" flash. I know sometimes it goes quickly but also keep in mind that the ECU flashes the qequence of stored cocdes twice. So say I had a 536 and 538 during the KOER test. I would like something like this...

flash----flash----flash= cylinder count

flash-flash-flash-flash-flash=5
short pause
flash-flash-flash=3
short pause
flash-flash-flash-flash-flash-flash-flash-flash=8
long pause

and so forth it would continue onto the next codes and repeat the sequence again.


hope I helped

-Josh

 

[kevinspann]

542 is a general code that comes up for the car is stalled, and is stored in the continuous codes. To clear, you have to remove and reinstall whatever you used as a jumper in the connectors while the continuous codes are being flashed by the cel.

 

[vortex2450]

542 is a general code that comes up for the car is stalled, and is stored in the continuous codes. To clear, you have to remove and reinstall whatever you used as a jumper in the connectors while the continuous codes are being flashed by the cel.

Upon rather review that's correct, I used to get 542 every-time I had old codes stored. Just took the shotimes look up too seriously.


-Josh

 

[shoreracer92]

thank you guys.. i will look at the koer codes agin when the wife comes home with it. it seems she enjoys driving it more that i do! and on a side note. it hasn't done it one time since i first wrote about it...

 

[rubydist]

maybe it got embarrassed that you wrote something bad about it....

 

[shoreracer92]

never would i write something "bad" about my Vicki.. thats her name, my fiery redhead..

 

[shoreracer92]

sorry to take so long but rain and life in general has stopped me from getting to Vicki before now. now i did the KOER and got these codes.
116
536
521
all repeated as they were supposed to. any help here? also, new to the mystery game is a squeak from under front r/s. only when moving. brakes are good and when i did the tranny outputs the shafts and bearings looked good. could all this be tied together? HELP GUYS!!!

 

[rubydist]

116 says the engine coolant temp sensor (the one the pcm uses) is out of range. this is very bad, because the pcm will think the engine is cold for 20 minutes before it times out, during which time it will run open loop - wasting gas, running rich, and creating more wear on cylinder walls.
536 says that you either didn't touch the brake pedal hard enough at the right time during the test, or the brake on/off switch is bad.
521 says the ps pressure switch didn't change states, so either you didn't turn the steering wheel enough at the right time during the test or the rack switch is bad.

 

[shoreracer92]

116 says the engine coolant temp sensor (the one the pcm uses) is out of range. this is very bad, because the pcm will think the engine is cold for 20 minutes before it times out, during which time it will run open loop - wasting gas, running rich, and creating more wear on cylinder walls.
536 says that you either didn't touch the brake pedal hard enough at the right time during the test, or the brake on/off switch is bad.
521 says the ps pressure switch didn't change states, so either you didn't turn the steering wheel enough at the right time during the test or the rack switch is bad.

ok, how would i go about fixing the 116? and could any of this be that sqeaking when it warms up? also i did notice that the engine ran very smooth (sounding) while the jumper was in for the KOER test, and when i took it out the tap/click, that i've had since i bought it, comes back? Thanks for any help.

 

[shoreracer92]

and i'm going to do all test again tomorrow to check if i can get rid of the latter 2 codes by hitting the brake harder and trying to get the wheel bell 2 bell.

 

[rubydist]

it could be a bad sensor, but out of range typically is a wiring issue, in my experience. start by checking all the wiring to the sensor.

 

[shoreracer92]

ok, from all the threads i've read on the temp sensor, theres two. one under the throttle body? and one on the back of the block? which one would be the one i need to look at? or both? do you have any specs on what they should test at?

 

[rubydist]

its the one the pcm uses, the one with 2 wires on the connector. the one with the single wire connector is for the gauges.

 

[shoreracer92]

found it, and all wires are in good shape and "seem" to test correctly.