Brand New NOS '89 Engine Assembly

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Ishodu

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One of those rear brackets would be great to have around. If anyone has one I will take it!!
 

93rev2sev

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I'm not in the market but since you asked...

I think $900 is about the most I've seen them for in recent history...and that particular one was $900 installed into a red 94'. I know because I have the zero mile alternator that his installer pulled to put the engine in the 94'.
 

jimtash

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I'm not in the market but since you asked...

I think $900 is about the most I've seen them for in recent history...and that particular one was $900 installed into a red 94'. I know because I have the zero mile alternator that his installer pulled to put the engine in the 94'.

I'd give him that in a heartbeat. I'll bite. How about $1200?
 

jmszkutnik

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Thanks for the response. $900 was a super deal someone got, and i'm sure those deals pop up once in awhile. I would buy another one if i ran across it for $900. I am inclined to hold onto it, if i can't get $2-3K for it. I still have two other 89s on the road and and would drop it in one if something ugly happened. The other spare 89 motor i have is complete and runs great, but it's been in a parts car i've kept outside for the last 7 years and it doesn't look so pretty anymore. I run it several times a year and it always starts right up, but it would take some effort, with seals & gaskets, a 60k, plating, painting, powdercoating, etc to make it suitable for either of the other cars. It's just a running, "known good" motor with potential.

I appreciate the feedback.
 

jimtash

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Thanks for the response. $900 was a super deal someone got, and i'm sure those deals pop up once in awhile. I would buy another one if i ran across it for $900. I am inclined to hold onto it, if i can't get $2-3K for it. I still have two other 89s on the road and and would drop it in one if something ugly happened. The other spare 89 motor i have is complete and runs great, but it's been in a parts car i've kept outside for the last 7 years and it doesn't look so pretty anymore. I run it several times a year and it always starts right up, but it would take some effort, with seals & gaskets, a 60k, plating, painting, powdercoating, etc to make it suitable for either of the other cars. It's just a running, "known good" motor with potential.

I appreciate the feedback.

With the available supply of these cars as well as the parts to fix them, you're facing an uphill battle. For many here, these are not daily drivers as you know and more of a hobby and with the economy the way it is, there are more important things to buy.

You could probably make more money parting the pieces out individually rather than as one unit. Also factor in shipping for someone that can't pick it up.

My offer stands. Or if you're interested in parting it out, I'd definitely take the shortblock off your hands.
 

yamahaSHO

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If you're still looking for that price range, it would be best to hold onto it. I built my engine for about $5k and that's with purchasing NOS heads ($400/pair) and having LOTS of work done to them after I got them. If I had just reconditioned my own heads, the complete build would have been in the $2k range (24k mile crank balanced/micropolished, resized/flash ground/shot peened/new bushings in rods, Wisco pistons, NOS oil pump, etc).

If you do part, I'll take the crank. Otherwise, clean up the flash rust and store it for that special collector many years down the road.
 

SHOracer14

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Thanks for the response. $900 was a super deal someone got, and i'm sure those deals pop up once in awhile. I would buy another one if i ran across it for $900. I am inclined to hold onto it, if i can't get $2-3K for it. I still have two other 89s on the road and and would drop it in one if something ugly happened. The other spare 89 motor i have is complete and runs great, but it's been in a parts car i've kept outside for the last 7 years and it doesn't look so pretty anymore. I run it several times a year and it always starts right up, but it would take some effort, with seals & gaskets, a 60k, plating, painting, powdercoating, etc to make it suitable for either of the other cars. It's just a running, "known good" motor with potential.

I appreciate the feedback.

Off topic but that console bracket from the 89' you gave me with the shifter, I did not need. I will have to hook up with you one of these days to give it back. Not too mention I want to check out your recently refreshed 89'!
 

1badsho

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I bought one of those test motors from one of the people who where on the yamaha quality control committee ..... Zimmbowers automotive ......

as with my new motor with 11 miles on it ... it was a test motor .... you will have to replace some of the valve springs ..... those valves that are shut and have been shut for years .... will be weak ..... happened to the new motor i bought from them
 
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jmszkutnik

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respectful disagreement on valve springs

Wow, what a bummer to buy a new motor and have to learn that.

I find it very surprising, though. The SHO motor has such light valve spring pressures compared to say, the 3.8 2-valve motor of the era (half (!) 42 vs 85 lbs at zero lift). Plus, the valves that are open would have more stress on them in storage than the ones that are "shut". And, even here, the SHO has relatively low valve lift compared to a typical v6 2-valve motor, too. (.33" vs .47" for the 3.8) and maxes at 120lbs pressure ( versus 240 lbs at max lift for the 3.8 ) contributing to long valve spring life (and guides, and valves and cam lobes..). Further, the SHO is designed with only 33% max deflection from free length of the valve spring (i've been talking intake specs , here) versus 40% for Fords own 3.8 of the 80-90's. This is also a design feature that lets the Yamaha springs - and motor - last longer. It's not strictly a design shortcoming, it's just one of the many advantages to a 4-valve design enjoys over a 2-valve. lighter valves, lighter springs and pressures, less wear on the lobes, less lift to get more flow, etc.

The 2-valve 3.8 also has the inertia of the rocker and it's 1.73 ratio to overcome - using higher spring pressures - in keeping the valve directly in concert to the backside of the cam lobe at 8,000 rpm (which i don't think a 3.8 can very well play in this range).

And still further, it would not surprise me if the engineers at Yamaha designed their very special "high output" motor with better materials, machining processes and heat treatment specs for the valves, camshafts and springs than a bread and butter power plant like the 3.8. It's all part of why the yamaha mills can go 200-300K+ without a major overhaul - if treated right - and still rev to the moon. They are really a wonderful powerplant.


But still, that was a bummer for Zimmbowers to come back with you needing some valve springs.. It's just possible that some other issue was involved.

I'm comfortable with the motor sitting in heated storage.. I will - of course - push a good dose of oil at 40psi through the galleries before ever turning it over and firing it up. ( I go through the oil sender port) Plus i always put a squirt of oil in each cylinder, too, when firing up a mill that's been idle for a really long time.

Best to you.

ps. i'll still cut you a deal on one of my 89's, too. i think i'm going to move it. I'll even drive it down for ya and visit family in Winter Haven.
 

1badsho

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I might take u up on that offer for the 89 ...... The motor u have is a great find .... its so neat to see a NEW motor like that ..... just go through it really carefully when u first fire it up and what ever u do DONT SCRATCH IT !

When they fired it up in my 91 SHO .... years ago .... they heard the distinctive rattle of a valve .... so they found out which one it was ... I bought the motor for big money with the understanding when they put it in it would be in working order... so they replaced the bad valve springs for free

Dam thats beautiful !
 
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