URGENT trying to get knuckle back on

[Warren]

Im trying to get my knuckle back onto the new stru/shock but it wont fit. Whats the best way to get the knuckle back on? I tried spreading the area that the picnh bolt goes on but it keeps going back to the size it was after I take the chisel out.

 

[93rev2sev]

so dont take the chisel out until its up there.

 

[Racer X]

Did you remove the knuckle from the car during strut replacement, or is it still in the car?

Leaving the knuckle in during strut replacement makes things infinitely easier.

 

[shocar]

I just finished putting rear struts on. Not sure if this will help. With the car on jack stands, put your floor jack under the knuckle and jack it up a little at a time until you have the proper angle for the strut to slide in the slot. You will have to slowly slide it on qne may have to wiggle and hammer it a bit to get it slide in. The strut needs to be connected to the strut tower. This worked for me doing the rears. Haven't done the fronts in awhile so I may not be correct

 

[Warren]

thanks for the tips guys, put her all back together with the new strut and realised the strut/spring is no longer straight, its not as bent as the old one but the wheel is still not centered, it still rubs against the front of the wheel well where the bumper cover is. It appears when this guy smashed into my car when he bent my wheel towards the front of the car ... he also bent the strut tower.. Where the three bolts go that hold in the strut.. there is little slight dimples.. like the metal is slightly bent up, where the other strut tower is complelty flat. This is the part that is around the area where that plate thats tack welded on. camber plate? Ill take pics if its visible. Is this car a wreck . totaled or what?

 

[luigisho]

You'll have to take it somewhere and see if they can get it aligned properly.

 

[Racer X]

That sounds as if your tension rod is bent.

Tension rod is the bar that runs from your lower control arm to the subframe.

 

[luigisho]

Could be one, the other, or both. I would look at the tension rod as you can replace that yourself if needed. The fact that you notice damage on the strut tower after the accident leads me to believe that a good body shop should be able to get you back in business (assuming the t-rod is ok).

 

[Warren]

Thanks for the help guys. I am learning alot about the front suspension of our cars. I was pretty intimidated by it for years and never did any work on it until know. Thanks for sheeding some light on things.

 

[Warren]

That sounds as if your tension rod is bent.

Tension rod is the bar that runs from your lower control arm to the subframe.

You are tha man! That rod was bent bigtime. Got a pair of used ones from No Sho and that straightened it out ALOT. Still not 100% though. I see my subframe needs to be re-aligned as it is shifted. I guess Im going to have to put the front on jackstands and get an engine brace or make one on my own somehow with the 2x4 method?

Also I took it for a test drive, the steering rack must be shot too. If I am driving straight, the steering wheel is pointing sideways instead of centered. Also if my drivers side wheel is straight, my passenger wheel (the one that took the impact damage) is slightely pointing in towards the drivers side. When I went to park and turn the wheel all the way to the left or right I hear a clunking . banging sound. I guess I need a new rack too huh..


Any helpful hints or tips as I start my journey? heh

 

[Racer X]

In addition to the new tension rod:

- New inner tie rod.
- New outer tie rod.

If you still hear hellish noises when turning the wheels lock to lock, replace the rack.

 

[Warren]

Ok Ill go for the rods first. So far I replaced the tensions rods, lower control arms, strut...I know the subframe definately shifted atleast 1/4" so I want to get that as close to where it was as possible..

 

[93rev2sev]

You don't need to support the engine independently of the subframe. IE, you don't need a hoist or an engine support.

Raise the vehicle with a good, tall jack from the front, with the jack placed on the subframe's front crossmember. Then, place jackstands (near their lowest setting) behind the subframe, on the body's frame rail. Chok the wheels, check for stability and then lower the jack slowly. Place a 2x6 across the center span of the subframe from side to side, directly below the oilpan. Measure the gap between the oil pan and the 2x6 and shim it so that the gap is about 3/4". Put the jack under the 2x6 and raise it until the 2x6 begins to bend. The 2x6 is probably not strong enough to hold the weight of the engine, trans, subframe, etc.. That's why we shimmed the center of it, so that we can push the whole shootin' match up against the body. This will allow you to loosen all 4 subframe bolts without the subframe moving. Once the bolts are a little loose, you can align the subframe with the 3/4" diameter holes built specifically for this purpose and once aligned, you'll be able to tighten all the subframe bolts without fear of mis-aligning it in the process.

I built a 2x6 that I keep in the garage for this very job. It's about the only way I play with subframes/bushings anymore.

edit "built..." More like cut to length...