Going to turbo.....

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91PDXmocha

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I was running 5 psi on stock fuel pump, 3.0 injectors, lightly refreshed 3.0 with only the octane adjust bar plug pulled, premium fuel most the time. My car should be making right about 300-310 CHP . I have upgraded to a 190 walbro which others have proven will support 400+ CHP. If you want to do it once get a 255 and FPR .

I did this on my DD and I to reccomend doing as much before hand thats what I did. make as much room as you can by re-routing wires,hoses.

I would think 8-10 psi should be good for around 400-425 CHP

Good luck
 

Cnp22

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The pump is for a sho 95 like mine, he bought it becuse he was goin to pay me to do his piping and stuff but he spent it on other things. He's got a regulator all ready also. I'm pretty sure i know where I'm putting my piping so I'm slowly moving stuff and rerouting things. I'm going to do all that and my breaks and tranny, diff, clutch, oil pump mounted, turbo mocked up. Then do the piping, injectors, tunning all at once.
 

91PDXmocha

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If your doing a remote setup which it sounds like, I'd look over threads by Scott ( strings ), search remote turbo and you will find good threads with good info.

I started with the bare essentials in my kit and add/change /upgrade parts weekly . Be smart about it , research alot and spend money wisely. I got started in the boost game for under 500$ doing all the work myself.

upgrade BRAKES to 95 knuckles, calipers , fn74 brackets , 96+ rotors and some decent pads . Relativly cheap and stop much better the stock .

I'd recommend aluminum subframe bushings , new motor mounts and replace any wore out suspension parts .

A stock clutch will hold 5 psi ( 300 chp ) ok but at the upper limit . once u start reaching for any more power I'd say stage 2 or 3 will be needed .
 
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Cnp22

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Just looked at strings post Im goin to be doing pretty much the same thing. Did he ever dyno that setup?
 

91PDXmocha

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Yes , i can't remember what he said he made last time but like a year or so ago I think he was making 365 whp at 11-12 psi . He has a forged shortblock now and pushing 16-18 psi I believe . Also he is 5,000 ft above sea level .
 

zach44102

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I was running 5 psi on stock fuel pump, 3.0 injectors, lightly refreshed 3.0 with only the octane adjust bar plug pulled, premium fuel most the time. My car should be making right about 300-310 CHP . I have upgraded to a 190 walbro which others have proven will support 400+ CHP. If you want to do it once get a 255 and FPR .

I did this on my DD and I to reccomend doing as much before hand thats what I did. make as much room as you can by re-routing wires,hoses.

I would think 8-10 psi should be good for around 400-425 CHP

Good luck

i think this supports my information.:thankyou:
 

Toolman

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No one's mentioned it yet, and I hope that's because you've already seen it, but definitely check out Tim's turbo SHO how-to thread:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=81944


jon, that was your 666th post. Hmm, I guess I am the devil. Anyone who promotes boosting these things is the devil. That tim guy, he does not know what the heck he is talking about. His car is broken more than it is running.
 

TYSHO

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Theres a tiny metal pin thinner than a toothpick that holds the horizontal bar in the picture below in place, the one that goes through the center of the differential, this one is welded so it doesn't rely on just that pin to keep it there.

2269853_35_full.jpg


ill try to find more pics

Wow... I didn't know that picture was still out there. That's a differential welded and picture taken by me like 5 years ago.

I also have the s/c'r pipes and brackets you can use to fabricate your own, if you decide to go away from the turbo. I'm right here in the Fort Worth area.
 

91PDXmocha

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He also had no way of monitoring AFR's.
Stock fuel pump with boost is buffoonery.

Car ran like a top like that never any detonation even on regular fuel and no octane bar pulled . Never gave one hiccup or sign of leaning out . If you drive stupidly without the mods and bounce all gears off limiter ya you will prob go boom. the only problem I have had with it is unrelated to boost . That was a original 20 yr old pump with the car boiling at 250+ degrees doing 10 drag passes . I think there is more wiggle room then people like to think. Or maybe i just got real lucky but with my history with SHO's I doubt that . My car seems to run pretty healthy compared to others cars even with my apperent lack of required mods and slow/steady upgrade as needed route .
I'm not saying everyone should go out and boost up there SHO on the stock pump for longevity , but I am saying if your responsible about it you can run a boosted SHO rather safely on sub 5 psi and plan a upgrade soon before anymore boost .

And I have a aem wideband now as well :)
 

Sho Amo

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Trust me, the stock programming is making you run 14.6 afr's at 5psi.

That is entirely not safe and I would NOT condone that. Since this guy said hes already upgrading, theres no point in arguing. I just want to make sure anyone who searches in the future and stumbles upon this thread doesnt lean their ***** out because this guys car survived it.

BTW, all stock pumps are 'almost' 20 years old on these cars lol.
 

Sho Amo

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I was running 5 psi on stock fuel pump, 3.0 injectors, lightly refreshed 3.0 with only the octane adjust bar plug pulled, premium fuel most the time. My car should be making right about 300-310 CHP .

Thats not proving anything, since you are just guessing your hp number.

Since we already know he is going the right way about this we dont need to talk fuel pumps anymore. For the future when someone searches turbo info and they find this... Upgrade your pump to at least a 155!!! DO NOT USE A STOCK FUEL PUMP.

Like I said before, I was using stock injectors, and they maxed out at 5 psi. I literally datalogged numerous times while turning the boost up. %100 duty cycle at 5 psi. Over 80% is not considered safe.


If you find a shop that tunes 5.0 mustangs, they should know their way around the tweecer enough to get you a safe reliable tune. If you decide to learn how to do it yourself, I would recommend EECTuning.org Those guys know tweecers better than anyone.
 

91PDXmocha

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Im not telling anyone to go out and use a stock pump for boost . Im saying IF your are starting to build the car yourself on your DD in 2 days ( like I did ) and are not throwing 2,000$ at it at one time with a month to put it together then running the car in a sane matter will more then likely be ok . Untill you can put in the upgraded pump next week or paycheck or whatever.

Not telling anyone how to build there stuff, just sharing what has happened to me for reference.

Have you dyno'd your car SHO AMO ? whats yours putting down ? my car traps 1 mph less then yours id be intrested to know ( your tracton pwns mine tho )

yes....original pumps that have never been replaced would be 20 years old, thats what I said. opposed to a new stock pump that may have already been replaced. Idk where your going with that one .
 

Sho Amo

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My car trapped 103 on a 100 shot. When I dyno'd that setup it made 224 whp. It was on a mustang dyno and they generally read lower but either way, it isnt much.
 

91PDXmocha

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Your car wasn't boosted when you dragged it last running the mid-high 13's with the s/c sho's ? Thought you ditched the juice many months ago ?
 

91PDXmocha

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I don't have any point to make , not trying to prove anything to anyone. Just saying I am building my car at a different pace then others I suppose . I'm just saying I drove the car on a stock fuel system for 3500 miles , drag racing and pressing my luck with the SHO gods until I got a spare day to throw in the new pump . Take from it what you will .
 

Cnp22

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I thought about s/c it but I'm on a budget and allready have a turbo. You have anything else to sale tho??? I will be doin it in steps (paychecks) but I'm goin to do the support stuff before the boost.
 

91PDXmocha

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Like I said sounds like you are building your set up slowely/weekly like I did, but taking the remote system route. Id get all your basic essetial hardware first and then go from there. I would start by finding exactly where to mount the turbo then using a few pieces of pipe to mock where the best route of pipes will be and so on .Then get all you oil lines and system planned out.

I spent alot of time just staring into my engine bay or laying on the ground up at the motor and planned everything in my head. IMO get the basic kit started and running then you can upgrade and endlessly tweak things on the car til its safe and where you want it. But do your own research :)
 

Sho Amo

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I havent dyno'd it since the turbo went on. This turbo is waaaay too small. I trapped what you did when i was on nitrous though.
 
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