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Pics?
For some reason, I've never posted in this thread, but here's what I've got:
Kenwood XXV-01D headunit
Kenwood HD Radio add-on tuner
CDT CL-61 component speakers
Elemental Designs 16Kv.2 sub
(2) Elemental Designs NINe.2 amps
sealed doors with lots of Elemental Designs eDead sound deadening
Here's some pics of the equipment in my old 95. Its now installed in my 93 with some minor improvements.
The sub box lets me keep almost all of my trunk space. Eventually I will make a false wall to cover the amps and sub. I've got a set of Elemental Designs e9.65 components that I was going to install, but they don't fit in the Taurus' crappy speaker bracket. As it is, I had to make some MDF spacers to get the CDT components to fit.
97 has stock tweeters, infiniti gold 6X9's up front, stock rears for now (until the sony xplods go in.)
Pyle amp supposively putting out 1600 watts (yeah right) and two Audiobahn 12" subs in a sealed ported box with a nifty little light.
Nothing real fancy, but it beats the blown speakers that were in the thing when I got it. For the small amount of money into it, I'm happy.
Just gotta finish dynomatting and insulating stuff!![]()
And as far as the cap discussion...I visit quite frequently a known car audio shop here in town that i've been doing business with for 15 years. And I have personally witnessed the difference a cap can make. Much less drain on the charging system and louder bass at high volume. If you run a high powered amp and it doesnt have the power it needs on a strong bass punch then it cant deliver that strong punch. If it has the power delivered when it needs it of course the punch will be stronger. And it is. I have 2 JL Audio 12W3's powered by a Memphis PR1000.1 and before the cap I had massive light dimming at idle. Now with the cap...just 1 farad...Theres only a very slight dimming and only with a very strong bassline. And that strong bassline is louder.
Would you recommend applying a "band-aid" when someone has ruptured an internal organ?
Get an electrical system that can handle the amps, and you don't need a capacitor.
And as far as the cap discussion...I visit quite frequently a known car audio shop here in town that i've been doing business with for 15 years. And I have personally witnessed the difference a cap can make. Much less drain on the charging system and louder bass at high volume. If you run a high powered amp and it doesnt have the power it needs on a strong bass punch then it cant deliver that strong punch. If it has the power delivered when it needs it of course the punch will be stronger. And it is. I have 2 JL Audio 12W3's powered by a Memphis PR1000.1 and before the cap I had massive light dimming at idle. Now with the cap...just 1 farad...Theres only a very slight dimming and only with a very strong bassline. And that strong bassline is louder.
Capacitors are faster than batteries and are generally located much closer to the amp. They are not designed to create a steady 200 amp flow, but they undeniably help when your amp needs some extra juice for one loud thump.
And you would be wrong. K thanks bye
Hey i'm up for an argument to my point. But dont just say i'm wrong without at least enlightening me to why i'm wrong. I guess seeing this firsthand and knowing the difference in my own car means i'm delusional.
last I saw, caps were actually more of a drain on the electrical system than just running to the amp...reason being that the electrical system not only has to run the amplifier, which most people set up to draw way too much juice anyway, but now it also has to work overtime to keep the cap charged for bass peaks, which in most music, happens numerous times per second.
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Ok While I do agree that an upgraded charging system is a better way to go...I think the cap thing is just based upon opinion. I get my "facts' from people here in town that own and work in the most noted car audio shop around here and wouldnt lie to me. And my own experience like I said before. So I agree to disagree.
Oh, you mean those people that sell and install caps?