Did upper 60k and car dies

[eminem3150]

Finished upper 60k and got the car together. It started up fine the first time and ran for about 30 seconds then died. Now it just starts and runs for 2 seconds and dies. I checked fuel pressure and it is fine. I ran the KOEO self test and didn't get any codes. If I hold the gas pedal down it runs. As soon as I let off it dies. When it dies, the car makes a whooshhh sound and shuts off, I get the oil light, and CEL. Any ideas?


A Little history...

I just purchased a 1995 SHO ATX in September. It has 118k miles on it and I got it very cheap. I am having issues with the engine.


1) Sometimes the car does not want to turn over. If I turn the key FAST it will turn over and die. If I give it gas for a minute it will be fine.

2) I noticed a rapid clicking noise and it sounds like it is coming from the driver's side of the engine. It does not always happen. I changed the oil with 10w-30 hoping this would help but the problem still persists. The old oil was pretty dirty. The clicking noise is not always present, however, once it starts, the noise will not go away until I shut the car down and let it sit for a while. The engine seems to almost always click after a fast acceleration to 60 or 70mph. It feels like a loss of power when this occurs too.

(I think it was my worn out timing chain tensioner. I replaced it)


3) I have an excessive oil leak. Not sure yet where it is coming from but it leaks probably at least a quart per month. Smoke rises from the passenger side of the engine compartment. It must be caused by the oil leak.

(I think oil is leaking from the cam seal)

I replaced the mufflers (both had holes) and this helped alleviate problem 1 strangely. The car would not start sometimes 2-3 times a day. I have only experienced problem 1 only once after the muffler replacement. So it does still exist but not nearly as often.

(It started happening more and more frequently before 60k upper.)

The coolant looks fine and and the oil I put in a week ago is still clear/bronze.

(Oil and coolant still fine.)

 

[Devin]

Vacuum leak, MAF, IAC, misrouted plug wires, partially connected injectors

Hello, welcome to the forum! You should configure a signature with your year and trans type.

 

[eminem3150]

I followed this

when installing the plugs.

I installed all new vacuum hoses on the intake.

Can you tell me how to test the components you listed? I am new to this.

 

[Ishodu]

Did you have all the clamps on the rubber couplers loose on the intake when you re torqued it down? If you didn't it will not usually go down flat and seal up. Sounds like a intake leak to me.

 

[pitaSHO]

If it was running fine before you tore into it then you probably just hooked something up backwards or there is still something left unplugged. I wouldn't spend time looking at anything new. Just go back over your work and I'm sure you'll find where you oopsd. Sounds like vacuum...

Chris K.

 

[Devin]

Can you tell me how to test the components you listed? I am new to this.

I dunno. I never memorized the plug wire routing. I used the sticky above.

As for the MAF, the KOER tests are the only way I have ever tested it. However you can take it out and clean it (the MAF is located on the air intake hose right next to the airbox). Usually the car works better with no MAF plugged in than a bad one. Same goes for the IAC. Try unplugging the MAF and see if it stays running.

Vacuum leak, just listen for sounds, inspect hoses and especially pay attention to the intake. I heard propane or starting fluid when applied makes the engine race for a moment if there is an intake leak, but in practice I have never tried.

Also, double check the clamps like Ishodu said, and make sure the gasket for the intake is not showing metal.

Clicking could be the timing chain tensioners?

 

[eminem3150]

I went out and cleaned the IAC then reinstalled it. The car started and stayed on. I pulled it out of the garage and parked it in the driveway and shut it off. Now it dies just like before when I start it.

I tried disconnecting the IAC before starting and it dies instantly. Also tried disconnecting the MAF and dies too.

 

[eminem3150]

Can anyone tell me what connects to the top EGR valve screw. I have a nut but nothing to put there???

The car still leaks oil

 

[1995mtxsho]

The car should still start/run with the MAF disconnected.

 

[pitaSHO]

Can anyone tell me what connects to the top EGR valve screw. I have a nut but nothing to put there???

The car still leaks oil

Just a small aluminum brace. It's nothing mechanical. If it still leaks oil look at the rear cam seal. Also, since you haven't had it running right yet, check the rear valve cover gasket. If you're not careful you can roll the gasket and have a huge oil leak. There are lots of places to leak oil. The front and rear main seals would be my next guess.

Chris K.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

A few things:

1) Check to make sure the big hose is hooked on the back.

2) make sure the grounding strap is hooked up.

3) If you had the battery disconnected the car may need to have to re-learn the idle.

SHOTimes might have a procedure. If I remember what you do is start the car, give a little gas if needed. Then start every accessory. Turn on A/C, turn on radio, lights and turn the steering wheel. Give it a minute or so. The car should then learn the idle.

Hope that helps.

 

[Devin]

I'm really thinking it is a sensor issue. It's pretty obvious it is not the MAF. I'm not sure if the IAC is supposed to **** your car when it is unplugged. I may play with that later on mine. I'm thinking CPS, CKS or PCM at this point.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

The first time I did a 60k this happened to me. The SHO wouldn't idle at all. Turned out it needed to learn the idle again.

 

[Devin]

How's it supposed to learn the idle if it can't idle?

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Thats the whole point of the procedure to do it. When you load the car with every accessory it learns what idle it should have. It worked for me when I had the issue. I thought SHOTimes or maybe SHOForum had something on it.

 

[eminem3150]

Tried giving it gas for 3 minutes with all accessories on and it dies the second I let off the gas. However, I did clean the IAC AGAIN and the car idled fine until I shut it off. Should I replace the IAC? Does anyone have a vacuum line routing diagram so I can verify I have the correct setup? And can someone with an EGR V6 SHO please post a picture of what is on the top screw? I would really appreciate it!

 

[eminem3150]

Ok forget about the EGR picture. I found a long piece of metal that goes on it (does nothing I guess).

I cleaned the IAC again so I could run a KOER test. The car dies when I am told to snap the throttle. I can snap it then it dies when it tries to idle. I did get one code. 116 ECT out of range. Its probably because I didn't let the engine warm up long enough.

 

[frosho]

That long piece of metal is a shield to keep things away from the hot exhaust.

If you can, I'd try swapping the IAC for a known good one. It sounds to me like that's your problem. Make sure the electrical connector for it is in good shape as well.

 

[eminem3150]

If anyone has a working IAC hit me up.

 

[eminem3150]

I installed the IAC and the car idles and drives fine now. However, the other day my CEL came on and the car died while I was driving it. Started back up after 5 minutes with no tach and drove it home. I am starting the front 60k this weekend. I got 212 and 214 when I pulled the codes (cam sensor).

I have an oil leak on the drivers side of the car. It only leaks while the car is running. Could that be the oil pressure sending unit? Thanks!